mark soares

<p>Tommy is correct - the light path through the viewfinder and AE sensor is unchanged and unmodified therefore there will be a discrepancy between what the imaging sensor sees and what the AE sensor sees. That can actually be fine tuned with the proper adjustment tools (adjustment software), however, there may be situations where the camera is fooled (such as scenes with heavy foliage where the AE sensor basically views the scene as dark green and the Imaging sensor sees it as an IR rich scene, resulting in overexposure).<br>

Focus issues are possible if you didn't have the camera calibrated to the lens, however, if you did and you are still having issues then the conversion just wasn't done as well as it could be. Replacing the lowpass filter with the IR (highpass or "hot mirror") pass filter creates the need for a focus adjustment. Some places that do these conversions can only manually adjust the focus by shifting the angle of the submirror or moving the imaging sensor/af sensor accordingly (an incredibly laborious, time consuming and error prone task). The company i work for, being an authorized repair facility, actually has the software and tools used to calibrate the camera's AF assembly and therefore it is possible to get much more accurate results by essentially recalibrating the camera's focus for IR (essentially causing it to backfocus by a certain amount) when used in AF mode. Calibrating the camera's focus that way yields much better results and will allow you to shoot in IR with the lens wide open without compromising focus accuracy/sharpness. There are limitations, of course, but for the most case the adjustments are pretty darn accurate and allow the newly IR converted camera an AF capability that is sometimes assumed to be impossible to obtain (hence the reason why most people tell you to stop down to f11, etc). Having said that, different lenses will yield different results as the design and construction of the lens will have an effect on where the IR focal plane will be, so it is possible if you use a lens with a large variable focal range that the focus in IR could shift from wide to tele.<br>

Ranges of 14-80 is what we usually recommend for our customers, although you can get it calibrated for just about any type of lens.<br>

<br /> Mark</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

You will likely not receive any feedback on this as no repair technician would volunteer any information to somebody regarding disassembly and reassembly of an external flash. You could potentially endanger yourself (seriously) so i would highly recommend sending it to a repair center. It's bad enough with cameras and people trying to do it themselves, but with an external flash? ouch, that is a mighty big bite (when it does bite). Brace yourself for the numerous posts of folks advising you not to do this (really its because we care :))<br>

Mark</p>

<p>Wow this has become a very active thread. I'd like to contribute a bit more to it to clarify some of the things i said in my previous posts. Lenses (just like cameras) have certain specifications and tolerances. The manufacturers can only guarantee a certain degree of accuracy when manufacturing these units, and as such the vast majority of them have to be calibrated or corrected in order to be within specs. This is not to say that most lenses need adjustment - what i mean is that components can be physically moved to adjust focus, however, in order to perform minute adjustments you have to rely on electronic calibration. What this means is that most lenses have data within their circuits that works sort of as a focus shift or focus compensation in order to get the focus right. This is calibration data (micro adjustments or shifts) that the lens has embedded in its own circuitry. If lenses were all perfect from the assembly line, you would not require this compensation data or microadjustment info to be in the lens.<br>

What this means is that if the lens suddenly does not meet the original hardware specifications as when it was calibrated (and the data uploaded onto the lens) due to the barrels slightly shifting, or element groups becoming misaligned, etc etc, then the electronic data which is there to ensure the lens meets the manufacturer specifications is no longer applicable because it is telling the camera to compensate and microadjust for different hardware specifications. In that case you would need to have the lens recalibrated to meet it's current hardware specs. So in summary, most repairs on lenses that require full disassembly or element group repair/replace require an actual physical adjustment (by shifting elements/barrels, etc) as well as electronic adjustments (by connecting the lens to the respective manufacturer's software and performing re-calibration on it, which is essentially compensating for whatever hardware specification fluctuations may be present in the repaired lens). If a lens doesn't need new parts, just an electronic calibration is usually enough.<br>

In regards to the little "brushes" i mentioned - this is a component in the lens that resides outside the barrel and travels along a pathway (gold plated) and feeds back information as to where the current location of the element groups/barrel is. Because these brushes are a physical component - it is fully expected that if they become damaged in any way or go out of specifications that the lens will then suffer a focus problem. Anybody with access to a repair manual on most modern lenses will be able to see these brushes and the function they perform.<br>

Mark</p>

<p>To add to my post above:<br>

Modern lenses can be calibrated by authorized service centers. The level of accuracy is such that in many cases lenses can be calibrated at specific focal lengths in their zoom range to compensate for either back/front focus issues. A lens that has an image stabilization system that needs calibration will need adjustment to that assembly in order for it to be within specifications.<br>

Keep in mind that as adjustments are done electronically, this adjustment data is actually stored in the lens' eepromm chips. If the lens' circuits are replaced then you certainly would need to re-adjust and reload the data into the new part otherwise the lens won't know how to operate properly.<br>

Having said this, the most common cause for front/back focus problems is certainly the user so be sure to test the camera properly (test charts and tripod with timer on) and remember that if the issue doesn't show up in your normal picture taking then it is not usually worth obsessing over.</p>

<p>It sounds counterintuitive but lenses can in fact cause back/front focus problems. The camera communicates with the lens via the lens contacts. The way the lens send back the information of where the elements are in relation to each other is by the use of these gold plated brushes and pathways that are positioned on the outside of lens barrels. The little brushes are very fragile and very thin and can many times become misaligned or even crooked which can cause them to either be positioned in the wrong place or out of the pathway all together. If that is the case then the lens communicates incorrect information back to the lens as to what the positioning of the elements are and therefore the image ends up having a back/front focus problem. A lot of times you can actually see the lens jump a little after the focus is achieved which causes a front/back focus problem. This could be anything from the brushes being damaged or even dirt & debris on the pathways.<br />There is also the image stabilization systems commonly found in lenses which feature a moving element group to compensate for the shake of handholding the camera when taking a shot. These moving assemblies (if not properly calibrated) will surely cause a back/front focus problem because the elements are not positioned correctly.<br>

I understand why you would think that the camera would always be at fault as it seems like it is the camera that is in total control of where the focus is, however, the truth is that there is a communication loop between the lens and the camera where they both make adjustments based on information received from one another. If the information received from the lens is erratic because of either a calibration issue or because of a defective/malfunctioning component a focus issue will be present.<br>

Mark</p>

<p>It sounds like your camera's flash assembly is acting up. I'm pretty sure the issue is actually with the little sensor that tells the camera that the flash is indeed up. You see, when the flash pops up there is a little sensor that indicates that the flash is up and the camera is then able to fire it. Typically if sand or liquid get into the crevices of the top housing or flash assembly the sensor could be blocked and the camera can't tell whether the flash is up or not, therefore it continuously tries to release it or, "pop" it up. I bet when you try to take a picture it makes the clicking noise of it trying to spring the flash up, right?<br />Sometimes this is a really easy fix, all you have to do is look at the top housing of the camera with the flash popped up and look at the little clip (you'll see it, it's usually on the left side when looking at the camera from the front). Then just move that little clip back in forth gently (it should have a little spring action). Close the flash and try to take a picture in low light (in auto mode) - the camera should pop up the flash and fire it. If it pops it up and continues to make that clicking noise then it may actually need to be serviced. It is usually just the little clip that's stuck though.<br /><br />**Edit - actually, i just reread the original post and since it is only happening 1 out of 20 pictures it is defenitely the recycle time of the flash as mentioned by previous posters. If the issue was happening with every shot then it could be the issue i described above.<br>

<br />Best Regards<br />Mark Soares</p>

<p>The likely culprit is a sync problem, however:<br /> I would set the camera to sensor cleaning mode and inspect the mirror to see if it is sagging. It could be that the mirror is not clearing out of the way in time and causing the gradation we're seeing. Because the mirror is much farther from the sensor it would create a gradient instead of a sharp line, which is typically associated with a failing shutter. At any rate, if that is the case i'd set the camera to the highest ISO possible, and fastest shutter speed possible. Set the camera to manual focus mode and point it at the sky and fire a few shots - the issue should be visible with these settings. Let us know what your conclusions are on this problem.<br /> Best Regards<br /> Mark</p>

<p>Hi Lori,<br>

That was a great idea to include the video showing the problem, i wish more people did that! The problem you are experiencing needs to be serviced by a technician as it is neither user error or an accessory malfunction. It looks to me like the shutter is shot on the camera. A lot of times if the shutter dies it will tend to fire itself continuosly (and give err99), the trouble is because the shutter is damaged the cycle can't complete and therefore the mirror never lifts all the way up and back down so it is basically stuck midcycle making the scifi noises you are hearing. Shutter replacement cost runs between $120-$180. By the way, you should refrain from turning on the camera since the shutter damage can cause the shutter blades to become mangled, and poke inwards towards the sensor. Since the shutter is trying to fire, it is very possible that if the shutter blades are poking inwards that it will scratch the surface of the sensor (that makes it a much more expensive repair)<br>

Best Regards<br>

Mark</p>

<p>Hi Sean,<br>

I've seen this problem quite often in our shop and there is one main culprit for it. Yes it can be the memory card that causes the issue, however, we find that it is much more common for the card readers that our customers are using to cause the issue. If you are using the card reader in your laptop or pc, try to connect the camera directly to the computer and see if the same image still has the artifact. If the artifact is still there, then you should take the card out and check to see if there are any bent pins in the CF card slot. If there are no bent pins then it could be the memory card (so test the camera with other cards to rule that out). I'd put my money on the cf card reader as the culprit.</p>

<p>Best Regards<br>

Mark</p>

<p>Hi David,<br />It may be a long shot but could you lock the vertical shutter button and see if the problem occurs again? It sounds as if the v grip button is being activated, therefore disabling the LCD and showing the C-REM for the buffer (which should show up when the shutter button is pressed halfway). If it still happens with the v grip button locked then i'd say your D2X's shutter button is acting up and may need to be replaced/repaired. Another button that can cause this type of issue is the DOF preview button - try pressing it a few times and see if that fixes the problem. The logic of course is that if one of these buttons is stuck, the camera automatically disables the LCD and will show up the C-REM because it believes the user is trying to take a shot.<br />Hope this helps!<br />Best Regards<br />Mark Soares<br />Professional Markets Representative (at a Nikon authorized repair shop)</p>

<p>Without a shadow of a doubt this is caused by a bad shutter. Likely the top blade of the second curtain is damaged.<br>

In this situation, repair is the only option. Shutter replacements aren't too expensive, the worst case scenario is when the inside blades get damaged enough to press against the lowpass filter and scratch it - that would be a much more costly repair.<br>

Have it checked out by a repair shop.</p>

<p>Mark</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

This sounds like an Image Stabilization function where the IS mechanism causes the image to "stick" to the sides. If you are using an IS lens i'd recommend turning the IS function off and testing it out again. If the "problem" goes away then that's all it was. The image sticking on the sides with an IS lens is not usually a malfunction since the IS does tend to compensate for hand movements by moving the IS element in the lens which of course shifts the image towards a side of the frame.<br>

Mark</p>

<p>Hi Dinkra,</p>

<p>I have seen this type of issue in the 5D when the CF pins get bent or there is some residue between the pins. If i were you i'd check the card slot and check to see if the pins are ok. If the pins are bent, Canon may not cover this under warranty as it is considered user damage (usually) although i have seen cards which are defective and can cause the pins to bend when inserted.<br>

Best Regards<br>

Mark</p>

<p>Hi Forrest,<br>

Well, i dare say your friend has ripped one of the shutter blades out... and may i say.. ouch :)<br>

The reason it probably doesn't show up as much in indoor pictures is because indoors the shutter speed is usually lower because there is less light and therefore a missing shutter blade would not affect the exposure as significantly.<br>

I would test the camera the way Sarah indicated and do it at 1/250th or higher. My prediction is if you did a really long exposure of 30 sec or more that the white band would be much less visible.<br>

Mark</p>

<p>Well, i doubt anyone can call Sarah a "know nothing moron" as she provides some of the most accurate technical info out there in my opinion! Personally i'm always impressed by her contributions.<br>

I personally think the problem is the mirror that is sagging in front of the sensor. I don't know why the coloration is predominantely green and i won't attempt to explain it as i'm sure there are people who can address that issue better. The reason i don't think it is a sensor issue is because of the faded edge and the fact that the discoloration is at an angle. Problems with the sensor usually result in linear artifacts, with the exeption of certain heat problems which are usually seen as magenta discoloration on the edge of the image.<br>

If this problem is showing up in landscape shots on the bottom of the picture then i'd say it is likely a mirror that is sagging.<br>

I think it is a good idea to take a picture with the camera upside down as it was mentioned by a previous poster to check and see if the problem will still be there. The logic behind it is that since the mirror is not fighting gravity then it should be flush with the focusing screen and therefore out of the way of the sensor which may result in a green cast free image.<br>

Let us know what your findings are!<br>

Mark</p>

 

<p>Deepak,<br>

It seems to me that the aperture assembly on the lens is acting up. I would test the lens by setting it to aperture 22 in aperture priority mode and firing away. If the aperture is indeed the problem you should see either err01 or err99. In that case it absolutely needs to be repaired.<br>

Best Regards,<br>

Mark</p>

<p>Hi Shun,<br />From Steven's description i believe the shadow is parallel to the shutter blades (longer dimension).<br /><em>"this was taken vertically and I cropped out the subjects from the image. The width represents the full width of the capture, only the height has been cropped."</em><br />The belief that the dark portion is on the short dimension of the frame is incorrect according to his description. I do agree however, that if that is the case then there is either a problem with the sensor or an obstruction on the lowpass filter. I must say that from experience i have never seen that kind of faded edge as a result of a sensor malfunction as when the sensor fails it follows the path of the pixel arrangements, which are linear in nature.<br>

It is my belief that either the shutter is obstructing the light, or very likely as well is the sagging of the mirror/submirror assembly which is causing the shadow to be cast on the sensor. Both problems can be diagnosed easily by inspecting the shutter and mirror while in the sensor cleaning more. The way you check the mirror is simply by setting it to the sensor cleaning mode and see if it is flush with the focusing screen. You can try to lift it up (very lightly) and see if it moves any farther up then it is. This would indicate a loss of tension from the mirrorbox spring and could easily cause this sort of issue as well.<br>

<br />Thanks<br />Mark</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

 

<br>

I think the shutter is not opening completely. What happens sometimes is that the shutter blades don't fully

open and end up covering up a very small strip at the bottom of the sensor. Usually this goes by unnoticed because

your average shutter speed allows light to bounce around enough that it is not noticeable. This problem usually exhi

bits itself when using flashes or strobe lights. What happens is the flash of light is so strong that it actually cas

ts a shadow from that little strip onto the sensor. Now keep in mind i am not saying there is a huge portion of the se

nsor covered and blocked by the shutter. It is literaly a very thin strip that has not retracted fully and is casting

this shadow on the sensor. You could probably see it if you put the camera in cleaning mode and look at the botto

m of the sensor. You will most likely see a little strip of the shutter blade that is obstructing the shutter slightl

y and therefore affecting the exposure

.<br>

This is not your typical shutter failure, but i do believe from my experience that it is very likely that the shutt

er is causing this

.<br>

Best Regard

s<br>

Ma

<p>Hi Ameen,<br>

There is a service advisory for the D70. Check this link:<br>

<a href="http://www.dpreview.com/news/article_print.asp?date=0509&article=05092801nikonadvisory">http://www.dpreview.com/news/article_print.asp?date=0509&article=05092801nikonadvisory</a><br>

I believe the symptoms you are describing are related to this and the lens had nothing to do with it. Nikon should take care of this free of charge. If they determine it is not related to the advisory then they will estimate it and contact you. You should state to have it evaluated under the advisory if you would like them to repair it as such.<br>

Good luck,<br>

Mark</p>

Hi,

 

Usually when you use adapters such as these or even extenders, they affect the distance from the lens to the af sensor because they are in between the camera and lens mount. I know that with certain lenses, this extra seperation prevents the camera from focusing correctly at infinity so i believe this is what your experiencing. I would set it on a tripod and try to focus before infinity just to check for this. Also, i would read the fine print on the adapter as many times it will state infinity focusing is not possibe for certain lenses.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Mark

Oops, i mean to say Kasper, don't know why i said Kristen!

I agree with Kristen 100%. I believe your shutter button is failing and that is why the shutter is lagging and the af is

lacking. It always happens when the camera has a certain amount of use in it and the result is a repair will be

necessary. Usually this will require a shutter relase assembly replacement which is not the most expensive repair in

the world. The way i would test this is to remove the lens altogether and set it to full manual (with flash off). Then try

to fire the shutter. If there is no hesitation whatsoever then the problem was probably due to the fact that the lens (or

camera) could not focus and therefore would not fire the shutter. If the camera hesitates from you just pressing the

shutter button and you find yourself having to press really hard for it to fire even without a lens then you have a

shutter release assembly problem and it will have to be replaced.

 

Best Regards,

 

Mark

Hi Scott,

 

I believe the company Bob Atkins referred to is the one i work for, though i cannot name it due to the forum rules and my affiliation with it. What i can tell you is this:

 

Bent Pins can cause serious damage to the camera's imaging board and may even cause it to not power up at all. If your camera is still powering up but not recognizing the card (common) due to the bent pins then i would stop using it and not mess with it because at least it still turns on.

Repair for this type of problem is $164+$14.95 unless the imaging board has been damaged, in which case we would have to re-estimate to cover the cost of the parts.

It should also be a relatively quick repair too, because due to the regularity of this issue the parts are well stocked in our facilities.

In regards to Alan's comment, there are certain pins which are not involved in the image writting process and are there as "ground" pins - bending these or breaking them usually does not affect the performance, although if the bent pin is touching another pin you could blow a fuse and/or wreck the imaging board.

If you want more information on this feel free to pm me or email me and i can assist you further.

 

Best Regards,

 

Mark

Hi Gary,

 

I will have to agree that it sounds like a camera issue. I've seen this at work and i've actually seen this being caused by a faulty lens aperture. If i were you i would test it with a different lens (or no lens) just to rule that out. The other thing i would check is that there is no debris in the cf card slot, or any bent pins for that matter.

Hope you get this sorted, and please post with the results so that we can all learn from your experience.

 

 

Best Regards

 

Mark

Hi Stephan,

 

Sorry for the delay in replying i had completely forgotten about this post. It's perfectly fine to have Canon clean the sensor althout it is not covered under warranty since dust can land on it at any time. I'm sure they'll do it as part of the repair, should they find something wrong with the camera. If the camera is still giving you err99 after all the testing there is only one answer - bad shutter. I know it's a new camera but shutters can die at any time. They're rated at 150,000 or so but bear in mind that is the average. I've seen them fail at 1000 and seen some last over 250,000 - there is no way to guess when they will defenitely fail. I would send it in while it is still under warranty so you could get it taken care of.

 

Best Regards,

 

Mark