bob.velkov

<p>Patrick, the NEC "internal calibration" can be<br>

1. either made manually by accessing the advanced controls/settings of the monitor (while measuring with a spyder) or<br>

2. automatically by Spectraview, which on its turn acess the same controls via USB. <br>

Anyway, the software is made to be used and it is much easier to do the hardware calibration automatically by using the Spectraview software.</p>

<p>Matt, while the dresses on the first pic show detail, the second whites are blown out and there is almost no detail in the blacks. </p>

<p>William excuse me but unless you are on a Mac it is not possible to have two different profiles for two monitors on Windows. And yes, it is possible to have two monitors match each other and the purpose for color matching is to match between ALL calibrated devices and not only between one monitor and a printer. </p>

<p>Matt, did you set both monitors to the same luminance, color temperature and gamma? This is something that may be different between "calibrated" monitors. The picture above looks ok, it is definitely not too light (Eizo CG241W set at 5500K, 80cd/m2, Gamma 2.2). Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Ken, what camera do you use? Of course using a fast camera gives the ability to shot handheld and bracket. </p>

<p>Patrick, the NEC software uses an USB cable to hardware control all the settings in the monitor thus making the process very quick and easy. It is possible to use a measurement device and by using the full set of advanced controls on the monitor to manualy calibrate it using the same spectrocolorimeter device. This would be the advanced mode of the i1 software. The third and not recommended method for any high-end display system is to use the i1 software in auto-mode which just creates an ICC profile to overlay it on the graphics card output without changing any hardware control setting on the monitor.</p>

<p>Jim, quick advise is to use HP ink and photo paper and not 3rd party in your HP printer. They match color much better than any 3rd party in the printer. Then you could color calibrate your monitor and your printer using something like Gretagmacbeth i1 (now X-Rite). <br>

Also take a look which color profile are your using for your printer, it may not be the right one. </p>

<p>I think that the Wuxi isn't much different than the Eizo ColorGraphics, this means, yes, you would need the NEC software in order to hardware calibrate the monitor. You may use the i1 Display 2 colorimeter device with it. You may also use the i1 Software which will only software calibrate your monitor. You may however use it in the advanced mode, where it would tell what controls to manually adjust on the monitor in order to match it hardware based to the desired calibration point. So you have three options where you need the i1 Display 2 in every case - in order of preference: auto hardware calibration with the Spectraview software, manual hardware calibration with the i1 Software and auto software calibration with the i1 software. The i1 software is inluded with the i1 Display 2 colorimeter anyway and you may download the newest version from their homepage. Good luck.</p>

<p>If you shot RAW you may export jpeg or tiff at -1, 0 and +1 and then photomatix those three images. Works wonderful.</p>

<p>Jon, get vuescan and an IT8 calibration target from B&H. Calibrate your scanner and read some of the vuescan resources on the net. Only then begin scanning your slides.</p>

<p>Have you calibrated the printer with this set of ink and paper or do you use some generic profile? </p>

<p>There are no flares with the Nikon, only when it was operated in extremely dusty environment and wasn't cleaned. I would only consider the Coolscan 5000ED with a roll film adapter to scan automatically or hack the regular film adapter to scan rolls. It just gives the best results with 35mm film. Combine it with Silverfast or Vuescan and get it calibrated with an IT(/Q60 target prior scanning.</p>

<p>The Eizo ColorGraphics CG241W wide gammut with hardware calibration is considered the highest-grade standard monitor for profesional image and video editing work.</p>

<p>Patrick, no iMac monitor is good for pro photo work as their luminance is way too high and can't be adjusted for 120 nor 80 cd/m2. The Cinema Displays are better but aren't top of the line for serious photo work, those are mostly very good office monitors. I am not saying you can't earn your money working on an ACD, they just aren't as good as the CG or even SX series of Eizo, nor the SpectraViews.<br /> <br /> Lily, i1 d2 is a reference device and it is used with the ColorGraphics Eizo and NEC SpectraView monitors. It is purely monitor only but this is what you need it for after all. Salesmen are just salesmen, they mostly try to sell you something without being experts.</p>

<p>Do yourself a flavor and get an IT8/Q60 calibration target from B&H, calibrate your scanner and use Vuescan to scan. Play with it, read all the guides on how to scan properly and only after that start with the batch scan of your slides. Otherwise chances that you will want to rescan all your images again are pretty high.</p>

<p>You may need something like this one: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/599285-REG/Tascam_DR_100_DR_100_Professional_Portable_Digital.html<br>

Quality of built in mikes is important and the better ones aren't cheap. You may sell it on ebay though after the event if you no longer need it. </p>

<p>Btw, the only useful tablets are the Wacom Intuos3 or Cintiq, everything else like the Bamboo, etc is just for fun.<br>

Jerry, which tabled did you use? You can actually configure whatever button on the pen or tablet on the side to act as whatever you want including left click. A tablet is *extremely* customizable so that you can make it suit *every* need. However it is a different tool and requires a learning curve as with the mouse some 40 years ago. </p>

<p>Are you sure you have inserted the MA-21 or SA-21 right into the scanner? They have contacts on the back. Probably some wire on the back in the scanner itself got loosen and broken?</p>

<p>In addition to what others have said, tablets use absolute coordinate for input while a mouse is relative. Some people find it more quick to position the pointer using a tablet.</p>

<p>Have I missed something or do I read you have used negative film? If so, I suggest using slide film if you want to get a really good scan with high color fidelity. </p>

<p>You better either Lightroom or Aperture. </p>

<p>Get an Apple and don't worry. Sorry guys, couldn't resist ;-)</p>

<p>The Nikon LS-5000 ED together with the auto slide feeder SF-210 will cost you $1099 on amazon.com and will beat the V750 hands down. You will need vuescan for $79 more. Good luck. </p>

<p>Yes, I have the 3650 and dumped it and exchanged it with the Nikon LS-5000ED plus SF-210. Way better, wouldn't think about the Pacific thing again. I am scanning with Vuescan. </p>

<p>Folks, thanks! I am using Vuescan and have different IT8/Q60 targets to calibrate my devices. I would need the flatbed for scanning photographs, not film/slides. It seems that the general recommendation is well to keep my ancient Epson 610 for scanning photographs. I do not think to exchange Vuescan. Have tried Siverfast AI but it seems to me as it would like to be everything (also Photoshop) and I only need pefect scanning software as later original 16bit TIFF scans go to Aperture and there I'll do any non-destructive post processing (seldom Photoshop nowadays). Raw scans of the original go to a different folder and remain there as backup and archive.</p>