cliff_shone1

I'm not clear, is the lens being recalled or not?

Great results - probably not, but better than no teleconverter and upsampling. At least that was my experience under controlled test conditions.

No, I'll wait for the next generation FF

I'm not sure the 24-105mm is to blame here as these effects were observed with a range of lenses

You are bound to get light fall-off at 16mm, but at 135mm - I would be very concerned. There's something wrong here. I find it hard to believe that this normal for the 5D! I think I would have Canon ckeck out that 5D if it were mine.

Hi Julius

 

Did you have the lens hood and any filters mounted? If so, is the vigenetting still as severe with them removed?

That's an interesting ariticle!

 

I recently downloaded the free DoF calculator for my Palm hand-held which I use quite a lot with my 70-200 2.8L.

 

http://www.dofmaster.com/custom3.html

I see that Bristol Cameras are also selling the 24-105mm f/4 L IS for 699 GBP including VAT. That's equivalent to a pre-tax price of 595 GBP or US$1071. Cheaper to buy in the UK! That would be a first!

I'm not sure what's going on, but every day I seem to find a lower

price for the 5D in the UK.

 

http://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/page544.htm

 

Now getting close to the 2000 GBP mark

And also a good price of 2500 GPB for the 5D + 24-105 'Kit'

 

Sub 2K by Xmas at this rate.

Of course you could buy the 24-105mm IS lens to partner the 10-22mm which share the same filter size

I recently bought the EFS 10-22mm for my 20D and have absolutely no regrets as it's a cracking lens. I normally keep my camera bodies for least 3 years before upgrading by which time I will have generated 1000's of images with that combo. At that rate the 10-22mm doesn't seem very expensive per shot even if I then have to junk it (which I very much doubt). How many EFS lenses you buy is your call and must take into account you aspirations for moving to a full-frame setup in the longer term

I spoke to one UK dealer recently about the 24-105s. He has been informed by Canon that the first batch of lenses will be distributed early next week.

Ordered mine.

I tend to use parameter 2 and enhance in Photoshop if required. When I shoot portraits I like to go very light on the sharpening. If you like the results you get with parameter 1, use it

I totally agree with Stuart. If you have any concerns about your equipment I would assess them under controlled conditions and not potentially unfavorable ones.

They could be taking a bit of risk which is surprising since they are not a large outfit. There's a branch near me and I've bought quite few items over the last 15 years. Never had any problems - they are a good dealer.

The Castle Camera price for lens alone is 799 GPB

This seems a reasonable discount on the list prices already from

Castle Cameras.

 

2750 pounds for the combo

 

http://www.castlecameras.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue__Canon_EOS_11

.html

Thanks, Mark. A zoom with >4x coverage was never going to be perfect, and your feedback hasn't dented my enthusiasm for getting this lens too much.

Thanks, saw that, but I was hoping for some feedback from somebody who's actually used it on the end of a camera.

I know there are a few lucky owners of this new lens around. Any

first impressions or sample images to share with us?

I think the built-in flash on my 20D is quite useful for fill-in and a good emergency backup. I'd miss not having it.

Thanks for the advice. I will try alternative view points, but my intial goal is to fill a portrait orientation frame with horse and rider.

 

I was under the impression from the manual that all AF points could be used for predictive focus, but I'm sure the centre point is more efficient.

What technique do you use for obtaining sharp images of objects

coming towards you at pace?

 

I'm going to shoot some horse riders cantering towards me and I want

to ensure the rider's in focus. Using my 20D and 70-200 2.8L (close

to the '320mm' end), I'll probably have to use f/5.6 or wider and my

depth of field will be about 0.5m either side. In the past, I've

tried focussing with one selected point (aimed at the rider?s face)

using the camera's predictive focus. This gave inconsistent results

with less than 20% in focus. Many due to incompetent aiming I

should add. I'm thinking of turning on all the focussing points

and hoping I don't end up with the horse's head in perfect focus all

the time. Any suggestions?

If you can see the junk clearly it's probably on the focusing screen. Remove the lens and inspect the screen in the upper part of the camera. Clean it carefully if required.

In 3-5 years time we will have enjoyed 1000's of shots with our 20D/10-22mm combos!