charles_kleesattel
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Posts posted by charles_kleesattel
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Once you get out of the 'mounted in shutter' world, the cost of lens go down big-time. I worried about the lens cap deal... shaking the camera as I put it on etc. etc. I got a PCV pipe cap that was 4 inches in diameter and glued dark cloth inside. It works fine, and I can keep my hat on my bald head.
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My vote goes with Mr. Kennedy. If you are bidding LESS than you are willing to pay, you will probably lose on eBay. I've found that the best way to deal with proxy bidding is to bid what I am willing to pay. If someone wants to pay more.. they win. If I REALLY want the item, I bid an amount that insures that I'll win, and I ONLY pay the increment over the next highest bidder. Ebay is not Santa Claus. Good deals require patience.
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I got one at Midwest Camera Exchange. They advertise in Shutterbug. It was a 4 inch wooden board that was pretty close to the right size. A little work with a file and it was just fine.
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I have both the Optar 135 and the Schneider 135. There is a difference in contrast and a little bit in sharpness, but IMHO, the price difference isn't worth it. If you have a good Optar, enjoy it. You can pick up an Optar on eBay for about $50 or less. Schneiders will set you back $150 to 200.
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Sorry...you gotta turn the whole camera, thats why there's a tripod screw on the side of the body. In order to have a rotating back, the bellows with have to be square.
Using a Speed Graphic for a view camera has its limitations, but the camera does so many things well, that it is worth working with its strong suits.
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I have some of this film in 8x10 format. I called Kodak with many of the same questions that you have. Basically it is NOT the same kind of film that Adams talked about in his books. The film speed of this stuff is 8. Some people have directed me to develop in a 'soft' developer. I've tried several and have not yet gotten anything usable. The Wratten 44a filter idea is a good one. I've used that to good effect. Good Luck.
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Try Universal Bellows in Freeport, N.Y.
516.767.7387
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I have them in my darkroom. My daughter put up glowing stars all over the ceiling. (she felt sorry that I had to stay in the dark so much). Yea, it was a really shock to see them the first time! But I haven't noticed any problem with film fogging. And they are so bright that I can see the sheet film in the tray (very unnerving). All I can guess is that they put out a light that has a narrow spectrum, and the film doesn't see it. Very odd however.
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I find that when I have a 35mm camera, I tend to shoot at anything that is marginally interesting. With the 4x5 and 8x10 if I try to photograph the same kind of thing... I lose interest before I get the thing set up. So, my criteria for a photograph is very different with LF. It IS is different way of seeing and thinking. Probably accepting the difference will yeild a better product than trying to make LF the same as MF or 35mm.
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Make sure the inside of the camera is clean. Removing the dark slide can charge the film with a little bit of static electricity and cause the dust to be attracted to the film. Some people load the holders in the bathroom after running the hot shower to remove dust from the air.
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I use Delta 100 medium format for just about everything I do. I develop it in Ilford Ilfosol S. (1:8 dilution for 8.5' at whatever tempature the tap water happens to be) This works fine for me, I've blown things up to 20X24 with no problem. I also have used PMK from the Formulary. That gives a little bit better edge separation and clearer high values, but is a bit more involved chemically.
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I've read a lot of books on this and I do have a spot meter. The stuff works if you're willing to spend time on the test etc. The two things I find of greatest value are 1) reccognizing the different zones (that takes some time) and 2) the whole process of looking at a scene and deciding what is the most important part of the image, and what relation it holds to the other parts. Zone system is more mental than equipment.
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More than likely the shutter speed is 1/50. Run a couple of shots and check it against your light meter. The old cameras are really fun, and the junky ones sometimes have very special 'effects' that can used well. good luck
which lense board for crown graphic?
in Large Format
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