jimcrotty

<p>Golden Eagles in Mongolia.</p>

<div></div>

<p>I am considering purchasing the 5D Mark 2. I currently have a 1D Mark 3 and recently sold my back-up camera, a 1D Mark 2, along with some other gear, to gather the funds to purchase the 5D2.<br>

Is there a difference in Canon cameras purchased overseas via eBay stores versus waiting for one of the big US retail chains to get their inventory ?<br>

Thanks.</p>

and one more. This Eagle print is on canvas<div></div>

another test shot from today -<div></div>

I just got my 70-200mm f2.8 L IS back from the Canon factory service center in NJ. I was

right - it needed adjustment. The service detail report states "replaced lens ass'y EMD/IS and

collar part, checked all, adjusted focus, cleaned to factory specs. Hats off to Canon - they

were quick and made the process easy.

 

The following are some of the shots I took here in my studio with the corrected lens:<div></div>

Thanks Colin. Lots of great info. Much I did not know. I'm going to look into the Bruce Fraser

book. I will see if I can email you a psd file of the image. Thanks.

Wanted to see if I could duplicate what Colin did, using the same low-res JPEG version<div></div>

Hi Colin - yes, that does look better. I wanted to send as close as possible of an un-edited

image, which is a JPEG for web export from the raw file in Aperture. I didn't even put it

through Photoshop. What are your preferred settings for sharpening ?

Colin - yes, the sharpening you did on the raven definitely improves the image.

 

I'm starting to feel better about the lens, especially since today I did a test shot using the

recommended settings.

 

With the shot below I used a tripod w/Kirk head, IS off, manual focus, ISO 50, manual at f2.8,

shutter at 1/200, mirror lock-up. My point of focus was the window frame. Let me know

what you think.<div></div>

Thanks so much for the very helpful information. The shot I posted of the raven was done

at f6.3 and 1/1000 at ISO 400. Auto focus was on, so I do think the point of focus shifted

a bit downward.

 

I am going to do another test shot today using the recommendations noted by John and

Bob. I will post the result later today, but I will also do a test print.

 

After reading the comments and suggestions I'm feeling a little bit better about the

purchase. I think there's always a bit of anxiety when making a big purchase such as this,

so I just want to make sure I've invested wisely. I've never had a problem with any of my

other Canon lenses.

I just purchased a new (at least I hope it's new) Canon 70-200mm f2.8 L IS lens to replace my older 70-

200mm f4. I've been doing some practice shots with the new lens and my Canon 1D Mark III. It just seems

that the lens is not quite as sharp as I had hoped, especially when I compare to my Canon 300mm f4 IS.

Any help or suggestions ? I will try to attach an image I took this morning with the new 70-200mm, of a

Raven, shot at iso 400 in program mode with the IS on.<div></div>

I now use a Nikon 8000, but I keep it connected to my old PC. I haven't tried it with my

MacPro.

I'm thinking of heading up to the UP of Michigan for some nature, landscape, waterfall photography. I have

not been before, so I'm interested in some suggestions. Thanks!

Zuri - Since I last posted my question on this forum I've purchased the ST-E2 and I've tried to use it with my three Alien Bees strobe units. I soon discovered that even with covering the four smaller points on the hot shoe with tape, the ST-E2 would not trigger the strobes unless it was pointed directly at one of them, which isn't practical considering the ST-E2 is in a fixed position on the hot shoe of my digital Rebel. I also tried using my Canon 380x flash, but because it's designed to be used with the metering system of the EOS cameras, it was not practical for setting-off external, remote strobes (pre-flash and all that). The best solution I found, and what ended-up being the least expensive, was putting my basic Vivitar 285 flash on the hot shoe of the Rebel and pointing the flash toward the ceiling. No matter where I placed my camera and the strobe units, the Vivitar 285 never failed to set-off the Alien Bees. It worked great. As far as the problem with unwanted light from the upward pointing flash, I simply would place my hand over the 285 or put a business card on it.

Juha - How and where can I find the generic strobe adapter for the ST-E2? I want to be able to use the ST-E2 to trigger three Alien Bees strobe units from my Canon Digital Rebel, which does not have a cable connection for external flash units.

Thanks.

I have been photographing nature and landscapes for over 20+ years,

however, I'm now wanting to explore portrait photography, both studio

and location.

 

Since I've mostly used natural light, my only experience with

additional light sources has been limited to a diffuser, reflector

and portable flash.

 

I would like some advice on what to purchase as a good quality strobe

light kit that I can use both indoor and outdoor, including cables or

transmitter that would could be used with a Canon 1v and Digital

Rebel. I also have a Mamiya RZ67.

 

Your help and advice is greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you.

I just purchased a Nikon 4000 Scanner. The specs state that it will

connect to my PC with a "6-pin to 6-pin" cable, however, I do not

have a port on the back of my PC to accomodate such a connection. My

PC is a new eMachine. There is a 9-pin serial port available. Is

there an adapter that will work? Will I need to insert a new

port/card in a slot on the back of the PC to accomodate the scanner's

cable (I know there's one that comes with the scanner) and if so, how

difficult a procedure is this? Thank you.

I need help. I just purchased a Mamiya 50mm 4.5 RZ lens for my 67 RZ.

What are the "N" and "T" settings for, and how should I use the

collar that indicates depth of field? I'm just getting started with

medium format.

 

Thanks!