jim_murray2

<p>I have a 5D. Not only do I not miss the built-in flash, I wish Canon had neglected the hot shoe. The pc connector is enough.<br>

I don't trust the structural integrity of plastic to keep a top-heavy flash secure, even with the 5D's metal chassis. btw- I am<br>

using 70's flash units. Modern flashes are probably much lighter.</p>

<p>I have a 'C', which should be like your camera but without a removable back. With no film loaded the wind knob<br>

rotates without cocking the shutter. There is a round knob near the 120/220 lever that when rotated to D for<br>

double exposure allows one to cock and fire without film. OTH, these cameras have a history of bad wind gears,<br>

which necessitates repair. I know of only two repair sources, and Koh is one.</p>

<p>As would I, with the addition of a separate wheel for aperture control, and only 2 modes- full manual and full<br>

auto.</p>

<p>I believe the main differences are that the XSi has a larger LCD screen and pixel count. The XSi can be<br>

purchased body-only. The XS is sold only as a kit.</p>

<p>I thought I had read that the only difference in 120 and 220 film holders was the placement of a pin that<br>

acted as a stop; meaning 120 film could be used with a 220 holder. Without moving the pin the camera<br>

wouldn't know to stop after 15 frames. I could be wrong. btw- I love my 1000S. I think your purchase price<br>

was very fair, and I hope you enjoy the camera.</p>

<p>I thought that part of the ungainly TTL Metering Prism attached to the shutter speed dial. I cannot verify<br>

this as that information no longer exists on Bob Monaghan's (sp) medium format site. However there is a<br>

small image of the 'deluxe flash adaptor' in Bronica Special Accessories in the same site. It is a metal cylinder<br>

that attaches to the breech of the speed dial with a shoe at the end. In the description it states that it is not<br>

recommended due to the weight on the speed dial. Neither of the accessories are mentioned in my owner's<br>

manual, but are listed for the S2 series cameras on the site.</p>

<p>My FTbn developed this problem, also; usually at faster shutter speeds, and not consistently. It is a curtain<br>

issue. I believe the trailing curtain is catching up to the other right at the end of its travel, cutting off exposure at the banded area. Your recent CLA should have prevented this from occurring. I suggest asking<br>

the people who serviced it if they will deal with it gratis. It is an issue that develops over the camera's life,<br>

not within a year's time.</p>

I have an M645 1000S and went through 3 PDS prism finders, all of which read 11/2 to 2 stops less light. I don't know the

answer. I would like to think it is adjustable; perhaps the adjustment is in the camera if not the finder. The problem I ran

into was finding someone willing/able to bring it into specs. I set the film speed to 1200 for 400 film, 600 for 200 film, etc.

With that compensation it matches my slr meter and 2 handhelds. I compare metering against monotone surfaces such as

a wall. If you end up sending it to someone I am interested in who and the results. Good luck, Jim.

It may be different now, but up to a few years ago all three companies purchased and

modified already existing/assembled new cameras. If there was a problem your

returned camera was swapped for another (which may have issues of its own). The

new-style backs are supposed to be a noticeable improvement. I decided against the

88 when I came to the conclusion that the sellers don't repair them, and I couldn't find

a camera repair person who could or would. If you proceed down this path I believe

that Arax has the better reputation. I believe the third importer is Kiev USA. Good

luck and have fun. Jim

My M645 also has the right side gap. The prism finder has a small strip

of foam on the front edge (does not look original) that effectively

reduces movement. I am not aware of image distortion. As long as it

doesn't interfere with your ability to focus I would not perform

exploratory surgery.

I use 675 batteries successfully on 5 FD Canons and 1 Minolta. The top

needs to be removed to access the prism/screen. The shutter/ISO dial

need to be at a particular setting before top removal. From what you

have stated, this camera body has several issues (particularly the

focus) that warrant a return/refund. Good luck, Jim.

I agree with Jean-Louis. I bought an M645 1000S a few months ago, and

I love it. I think that it is laid out very well, good quality, and

sharp images. If you go this route a prism finder is mandatory for

portraiture. My one concern was the battery-operated shutter; as it is

my first non- mechanical camera. However, I carry a spare battery and so far it has behaved like a new camera. Good luck, Jim.

Focusing helicoids do occasionally show up on ebay. Frank Marshman at

Camera Wiz in Virginia, or Jimmy Koh in NY can either repair yours or

sell one. www.kohscamera.com is his website. I don't have Frank's

info, but a search should uncover his phone and address.

Hello Nicole. I have a Bronica C, which predates the cameras you

mention. My reason for choosing that model (S series) runs counter to

others' suggestions of purchasing a newer model. I wanted a fully

mechanical camera- no electronics, no battery. I also prefer the

Zenzanon lenses over the Nikkors that were made for that series. I

don't mean to sway you to older cameras, just present a different take.

There used to be a good site on medium format gear; the last time I

accessed it much of it seemed down-http://medfmt.8k.com/bronica.html

Good luck. I hope that you find a beast that you will embrace,

medium format that is. Jim

The wind gears have a reputation as the weak spot in the S series, both

teeth wear and gear loose on shaft. They are not DIY friendly.

Frank Marshman and Jimmy Koh are two qualified repairmen.

I bought a mechanical F1 body that will only trigger a flash at shutter speeds

above 1/60, which appears to be for FP bulbs. A schematic shows both FP and X

sync contacts (under the top cover?). Do I need to use a flash coupler to allow

triggering at 1/60, or is it repair time? I am using a bracket mount flash and

do not need the coupler to mount the flash to the camera. thank you, Jim.

I recently asked them about usual turnaround times for repairs; and was

told they couldn't answer my question because if the camera couldn't

be fixed in-house it would have to be sent out. This left me with the

feeling that in-house work doesn't go much beyond a CLA.

I have a 'C' model (non-removable back). When I move the double

exposure knob to double exposure, I can wind and dry fire until I move

it back to the regular single position. The 'S' series, including my

camera, has a reputation for weak wind gears and film wind/shutter

cocking failure. I believe, but am not positive, that a film holder

has to be installed before you can wind and cock- no film necessary.

I believe this is correct: Both Zenzanon and Nikkor made 40mm/f4, and

50mm/f2.8. Nikkor also made a 50mm/f3.5 that was also labeled 5cm.

I have no experience with any of these, only the 80, 100, and 150mm

Zenzanons which I like. The 100 is my keep on the camera lens. My

memory is that the wide lens usually command at least $100. btw- don't be afraid of the cocking noise and shutter slap. Jim

Would it make sense to remove the filter from the camera and hold it

in front of the meter? You should see a difference in the meter reading, requiring more light for the exposure. This difference

should jive with Albert's filter factor compensation. If I am reading

the strong sunlight comment correctly, that is going the wrong way by

letting in less light instead of more. As Zach says- you need to slow

the shutter speed or open the aperture for more light because the

filter is allowing less light to hit the film.

I bought a spare battery holder from KEH. The unit is used, but in

good shape. Contact info- 404.892.5522, or www.keh.com

The 544 uses 6 1.5volt batteries in series for 9 volts to power the

flash.

I had the same problem with my C. The film would wind but the shutter

would not cock at the end of the wind cycle. It had to be repaired,

which cost more than the camera. CLA was included with repair. btw,

I thought Jimmy Koh was in N.Y. Good luck with it, Jim.