jwalk

<p>Jim Brandenburg. From Wikipedia:<br>

"Jim Brandenburg has established a certain style among nature photographers, notably in technique. In his over 25-year tenure with <em>National Geographic</em>, he traveled the world taking pictures for the magazine. On the projects, he found himself taking up to 300 rolls of film only to have a few dozen selected for the published articles. In 1994, feeling "increasingly dissatisfied" with his art, he undertook a personal project wherein he limited himself to take only one photograph per day between the <a title="Autumnal equinox" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autumnal_equinox">autumnal equinox</a> and <a title="Winter solstice" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winter_solstice">winter solstice</a>. The resulting shots made up his book <em>Chased by the Light</em>, NorthWord Press 1998."<br>

Amazing photographs, one a day, no exceptions.</p>

<p>As with you Peter and the last three people who responded I am having the same sort of problems. I shoot AV, center spot focus, evaluative metering and the pics are hardly ever correct at 0+-. I am forced to alway run the exposure compensation up or down without any sort of pattern. Sometimes they are overexposed, sometimes under exposed. Its very very frustrating. 3 other things I have noticed happen to me. One time I turned on the camera and nothing happened. I took the battery out and put it in and then it decided to work. Also my 70-300 is lens just stops working on this body. Don't know why it just doesn't work so I again have to shut off and turn it on. Lastly, when I shoot multiple frames the exposures vary greatly from the first to the last. I posted this problem and some people said it was because of artificial light but it now has happened outside as well. I don't know what is happening here but I have sent it in and if they can't fix it. Its going back for good! I want my money back. My 20d never had any of these problems. JW</p>

<p>No problem with the adapter on a 1.4 takamur. I use an adapter I got on ebay that has the chip. This is very helpful because the cameras focus light will light up when you have achieved focus, which is hard to see when you are shooting anything 3 feet away or more. I have found it accurate and it has given new life to my old pentax lenses. Works fine on my 5d mkII.</p>

<p>I agree with everything Dean said. He's the man and I wouldn't have been able to do my conversion without his info CD. You just can't beat the polaroid conversions for price, useability and weight.<br>

JW</p>

<p>Drew- Last summer using instructions from Dean Jones the "razzle dog" I created my own conversion from a polaroid 900. Unlike most conversions I used the 135mm 1000 lens off of a super speed graphic. I wanted a lens and shutter assembly with something faster then 1/500th sec. for faster film. Anyway, it took a long time but when I was finished i had a really awesome camera. I like using it and I find it more intutive then the speed graphic. I also have never had a speed which had its rangefinder properly adjusted for long. The advantage of the polaroid is that it uses a cam, sort of like the last models of the super speed. They hold adjustment very well and also are easy to readjust. Using the camera is a bit clunky, but I think any camera that size is a bit awkward. I used a spring back from a pre-anniversary speed graphic on the back and use the typical double 4x5 film holders. Recently though I have converted a 4x5 bag mag which holds 12 shots! I am testing it now and making sure my convertion has been successful in getting the film in proper position at the focal plane. I think it will work though. I highly recommend buying one or having Razzle convert one for you.</p>

<p>I think the most logical thing is what Bob said. The pictures were taken in an artificial lighting situation. I haven't tried a burst or noticed a burst in natural light that has this problem. Thanks for the answers everyone.<br>

JW</p>

<p>I have noticed as I take 3, or even 2 picture burst with my 5d mkII that the exposure changes from picture to picture throughout the burst. The first picture in the burst seems to be the brightest and then the following one or two pictures are darker. This indicates to me that the shutter actually speeds up slightly through the burst instead of remaining a constant speed for each picture. Just in case you were thinking it, NO I did not have the auto-bracketing feature on.<br>

Has anyone else found this to be true with their 5D mkII? Should I be concerned? Does this mean it needs a shutter overhaul? Thanks for your help. JW</p>

<p>Under the menu there should be different ways to switch "Parameters" or "Picture Styles". Under this area you will be able to tweak things like sharpening, and saturation. I think if you want more vivid pictures you should go under this area and create a parameter that has a higher saturation. Let us know if you can find that under the menu and update us on how the pictures are turning out. Good Luck. JW</p>

In other words, as I am shooting video with my 5D MKII will the image stabilizer be on the whole time or will it be off?

I wrote Canon directly, they didn't answer. My guess is "off" because of the battery drain but I am hoping "on"

because that could be very helpful especially at telephoto ranges. What do you think? Am I missing any info on this

that has been posted somewhere already? Thanks! JW

yes you did miss something. This is not about focal length or blur. Her problem was overexposure. You are right about reading the manual though. They can be very helpful.

Yeah you might have been way over 2 stops overexposed outdoors, and at 800 ISO in your other pictures. As you are in manual watch that hash mark if it goes all the way to the right and then starts blinking then you are way overexposed and somewhere past +2 steps overexposed and it will look white big time. Hey, I saw your lillypad picture. Very nice. Good luck playing around with your camera and figuring out all of the manual features. Once you have mastered those, it is very freeing and you will be even more successful then you are already. Happy shooting!

Marrissa- It looks brighter at 3.2 because you are opening the aperture up more and letting more light in. Another way to do this is to increase the time of exposure which is what i was getting at with changing the shutter seed from 0"6 to 3 seconds. It should get really bright then. I suggest that you play around with your camera in manual and begin to understand the relationship between shutter speed and f-stop(aperture). To get a balanced and properly exposed picture you need to find the settings in these two areas that make the meter reading on the scale centered in the middle, aka the hash mark will be in the middle not to the left - or to the right +. Once you have learned how to balance your exposure the white should go away. Good luck and keep working away at it. It will all work out just fine if you keep trying and also reading up on photography online and in books.

Sweet, now we are getting somewhere! Now go to manual and dial in the same exact settings. 1600 ISO. f4.5, and 0"6. You should get exactly the same results. Remember shoot pointing in exactly the same direction and lighting.

 

Next to test the theory you can dial in a shutter speed of 3 seconds (3" I believe on the camera or is it 3' ?)

If that looks overexposed or white then your camera is working properly.

okay take the picture and tell me if its white. If its blurry thats cool, 6/10th's of 6 seconds what ever it is, is too long for sharpness handheld. I just want to know if its still white.

At -1 in manual is it totally black? and what is your shutter speed telling you? Don't worry about a blurry picture we are trying to figure out the white and the overexposure right now. The other thing I would like you to try is to go into 1600 ISO and the switch your camera to AV. After that dial in whatever f stop you want 4.5 is fine. Then pressing the shutter button half way tell me where the hash mark is now?

I agree with Scott.

In M manual setting the picture should be exposed properly (according to the meter) when the hash mark on the scale below the numbers is exactly in the middle. If it is to the right of that center hash mark then you are overexposing and the shutter speed setting is wrong and needs to be increased.

I don't know where you are at this moment but its dark where I am. You can still try this and take some shots indoors. Give it a try and take note of where the meter mark is on the scale below the numbers in your viewfinder or below the numbers on the info screen.

Marissa, you need to give us some more info. What is your shutter speed, f stop, and ISO setting? Was it outside on a bright sunny day or was it overcast? Once we know these things we can help you figure out the problem. Right now it looks like a classic overexposed picture but until I know everything I cannot say for sure. Maybe your shutter is hanging up.

Hate to say it but this happened to me about 3 months ago, exactly the same as you described it. The shutter is shot/kaput/on the blink. It cost me 300 dollars for a new one. I think its worth it and now I have 100,000 more cycles to go. Its almost like getting a new camera.....almost. Sorry for the bad news but its time to send it in to Canon service.

I bought two adapters with the chip from 2 different vendors through ebay. Both are from Hong Kong. The first one did not allow my lens to screw in far enough for focus to infinity. I took the dremmel too it, to grind out the flange. It works fine and the focus confirmation is very helpful as long as the lens is not stopped down past f10.

The second adapter had no flange, needed no grinding and works great. Again the focus confirmation is vital at distances past 3 feet. Without a split image focus screen its almost impossible to focus sharply at longer distances. I also noticed that the focus confirmation works well when you change the focus spot on the camera. I wouldn't worry about the chip falling off. Just inspect it every now and then to make sure its not coming free before you attach the lens to the camera.

I am trying to figure out what kind of metering the ttl meter in an FT is

really. Center spot? Average of the whole frame? I am sure it is pretty simple

and my FT seems to be reasonably accurate with the right kind of battery

installed. I was just wondering how the reading was taken inside of the camera.

Does anyone know?

Thanks-JW

Man I was just talking about what olympus needed to do in a post here a couple months ago. I said they have always been awesome at making compact/high quality cameras and they should try it again. You know resurrect the ghost of the Pen series and the XA. Now it seems they were thinking that all along. I hope they keep going in that direction and for all of you who were poo pooing my thoughts on this subject...I guess I have the last laugh. Good Job Olympus!! I hope its a success.

For those who know of him and his contributions here is a link.

 

http://ap.google.com/article/ALeqM5iCwUTF7rAGKUvJMQaIvFlNasu95QD8UJ0THG0

Gerry- I hope you are right. I know that they do some excellent point and shoots but everyone does Pand S. So did minolta, so does Pentax. You are probably right and I truly hope so. If anything pentax is weaker (not that I wish ill on them) Your right I should write Mr. M!

I like the responses, its nice to see some people thinking about this as I have. Some responses verge on anger which I don't quite understand when this is all just hypothetical anyway. Like I said, I don't think that Olympus is going to make it much longer. The choice of the 4/3 was very unfortunate for a camera which is supposed to challenge or compete with full frame or 1.6 aps-c sensors but would make sense on a small/pen-size camera. To bad Maitani retired. He would "get" what I am talking about I am sure.

I am relatively new to Olympus products but have come to love many of the older

models that they produced. Normally I am a Canon shooter and undoubtedly they

and Nikon are at the top of their game with no reall chance of falling from

grace soon.

So I had to ask myself what do I love so much about Olympus? What would make

me want to buy a NEW Olympus product? I look at there line up now and I see

respectable products that are good but not at the level or selection of the

previously named gaints of the DSLR world. I can't help but think that Olympus

is barking up the wrong tree and not playing to their strengths. Most of all I

don't want to see Olympus go under like Minolta. There needs to be

alternatives to the larger camera companies.

 

Here's my solution to problem, tell me what you think.

 

Olympus in my mind has been the leader in miniturization with high quality. If

I am going to the rennaissance fair where I am going to be walikng around for

hours, I am not going to drag around my heavy and large 20d, I am bringing my

Pen FT and a couple of lenses.

So don't you think it would be wise for Olympus to ressurect the spirits of the

past? Olympus Pen,XA, and Epic Stylus 2.8; all had one thing going for them:

Small package, professional results.

 

Olympus if you are out there here is my dream camera of your future!

 

1)DSLR, small in size somewhere between the XA and the Pen ft

2)7 megapixel is enough, but image stabilized...you could use the 3/4 sensor

size easily

3) a range of detachable lenses, all zoom maybe a few primes, but SMALL like

the ft series

4) Shutter speed up to 1/2000 at least, second shutter flash capable a must.

5) ISO 50-3200

6)SD card storage, none of this proprietory crap like sony memorystick

7) Multi-point adjustable focus

8) PC socket,AV, TV and full manual too.

 

What do you think?

I think built it, and the buyers will come!

What else am I missing folks? (I know a million of you have thought this same

thing, its not an original thought at all)