alan9

I have bought the lens for two weeks now and only get to take it out for shots in one evening. This lens is way sharper than the 14-45 kit lens and it is now permanently mounted on my E-300. I haven't even touched the kit lens since the purchase of the 35 macro lens. I really like this lens and do not regret one bit for making the purchase. One thing I now wish for is weather sealing for my E-300 and lens.

Sure, Gerry. I just went to the shop today and took at look at the lens. I wasn't able to take any test shot with my camera but the guy in the store let me looked through it with the E-500. This is the only and first macro lens I have tried, and the autofocus wasn't as bad as I have heard from a few people. Maybe I just haven't used any superfast focus lens yet:) . The build feels quite nice although not as good as the metal OM lens.

I would probably get the lens by the end of this month, I will post again and let you all know how I feel about this lens.

VIVEK, I missed your post while typing up the last response. I do not own any of the Olympus half-frame cameras, but I think the E-300 itself is very similar to the PEN-FT. Olympus has always been an innovative camera maker, that's why I have chosen Olympus instead of the popular Canon and Nikon.

Thanks for all the advices. I will be getting the 35mm macro fairly soon. I've looked at the 50mm macro, 14-54, 11-22. They are all great lenses but are out of my budget. Hope to see Olympus come up with a fast 25mm lens in the near future.

Vivek, are you sure this lens cannot focus to infinity? If so I would rather buy the adapter and use the OM zuiko lens instead. I have read that this lens can be used as a regular lens, i've also seen pictures taken by it and it seems like they were at infinity but I can't be sure.

Is it because of the working distance or the barrel distortion of a wider lens that makes it not as perferable to use a short focal length lens for macro?

 

By the way, according to the specs from Olympusamerica.com, the closest distance the 35mm macro can focus on is 5.7 inches. I picked up my kit lens and set it to 35mm macro and try to see what the frame will look like at that distance, and it's no where near 1:1 magnification. Is the distance measured by object to front of the lens, or object to the sensors? If it's the latter, then the lens is REALLY close to the object and will probably shade any ambient light that might be avaible.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

I am aware of the 2 times crop factor in the E-system. The 35mm macro will be closer to the "stardard" than the 8mm fish eye and the 50mm macro. I wish they would introduce a 25mm f1.4 lens, but I haven't heard any news of one coming out soon. I am still deciding on the 35mm macro or 24mm f2.8 old zuiko lens with adapter.

Hi, I am deciding on rather the ZD 35 f3.5 macro lens should be my

next purchase. I haven't done any macro stuff, but it would be nice

to do some experimenting. I am considering this lens because it is

the only wide prime lens avaible beside the fisheye which didn't

really fit my purpose. Another option I have is using the old zuiko

lens as primes but I'm losing auto focus and spot metering. That

wouldn't be a real bargain for me since the 35mm macro is only 200

USD and the adapter is 100USD. Besides, resolutions of the old

zuikos will never be as good as the new Zuiko digital lens specially

designed for the E system. So the question is, have anyone had any

experience of this particular lens and how does it perform when used

as a normal lens (not macro)? Would it be better or worse than the

kit lens in terms of contrast and sharpness? How is the build of the

lens? is it cheesy or strong to the touch?

 

Thanks in advance for any response.

 

Alan

I'm not sure with the E-500, but I heard that spot metering won't work properly with the E-300. I emailed Olympus two weeks ago and they said they weren't giving out free adapters anymore. However, you can still buy it at their Emporium store for 100 USD.

I also have the E-300. The ok button can be customized to be a depth of view preview button or other shortcuts such as the custom white balance button. I haven't been able to figure out how to configure the AEL button to stay locked without pressing it. For the AFL, you simply press the shutter button halfway and it will lock.

 

Hope this help.

Thanks for the specs, I have a canonet for street shooting. I just want to make sure that when I take my OM out, I'll be able to use it for general use and not limited to close ups.

The one i'm looking at has a 62mm filter size, so i'm not sure if you have the same one i'm talking about here. or it could the KEH who made the mistake, who knows.

but thanks for the info and I will take it into consideration when buying the lens.

that's great news, I'll be using it just as a normal walk around lens. I'm buying it with a use OM2n for my back-to-SLR body.

I have an eye on a Olympus OM mount lens Vivitar lens stated in the

title. I did a search here and I learned that it can make a 1:1

reproduction. However I still have several questions regarding the

performance of the lens, I cannot find the specifications of the lens

anywhere. so here are the questions and thanks for any response.

 

1) how does the lens perform when focusing on distanted object?

 

2) does it focus to infinity?

 

3) what's the minimum focus? from the front of the lens or the film

plane?

 

4) where can I find the specs for this lens?

 

Thanks

I took an advice from another message board. I poked the mirror with a rubber air blower. I know this is something we all know we should never even think about doing but I was so desperate I did it anyways and IT WORKED!!! I'm going to get my light meter and tripod on friday and finally i can start shooting with my new toy! I would like to thank all of you once again for the help.

This sound really bad. I haven't even go through any film through this camera and it need to be fixed?! I'm going to need another job to support my expensive hobby.

ya, I read every page of it but it was for the Pro S. but I am guessing they are very similar.

now I assume my camera is broken. I'm going to take it to my local shop and get it fixed. hopefully it will be cheap.

instead of posting another topic, I would like to know if I buy a RB pro S, or pro SD body, would my finder, lens, and back fit on it?

 

once again, thanks for your help.

I cocked the mirror, the "flap" comes down. then removed the lens. the mirror didn't come down, only the flap did. i'm talking about the one that comes down before the mirror.

forgot to mention that the "flap" that comes down before the mirror used to seal the light does come down. not the mirror though... Hope this is a problem I can fix myself, i'm getting a light meter, tripod and a couple rolls of film and I don't have much any extra money to get it fixed. I certainly don't want to wait another 2 weeks.

if you are talking about the switch with the "M" and "N", I did that already. I tried taking the back, the finder and the lens off and nothing happened. It's killing me!

I did, but it still wouldn't come down.

I bought a RB67 from Ebay, i tried everything and it worked until

today. I still haven't got a light meter yet so I haven't shoot any

film with it yet. but i played with it a couple of times, you know? I

can't wait til I get to use it. then today i tried to set it to use

MLU and turn the camera over and look at the shutter and see if I was

doing it right. I pressed the shutter release button on the body and

the mirror goes up, and the shutter was closed. I didn't have a cable

release so I just cocked the mirror/shutter again. and the mirror

wouldn't go back down. I didn't dare to touch the mirror and force it

go back down. Am I doing something wrong or something simply break

because it's a very old camera?

please help and thanks in advance

I have the same question as James and I figured I shouldn't make another whole new post about it. so I'm new to photography, i had used a X700 and Eos 50E. I do alot of street photography and I love taking protraits of my friends. The reason why I want to dump my gear and move to MF is I like how you can shoot with a WF. and from what I understand MF will produce better pictures than 35mm due to the larger negatives. I've been only shooting for half a year and I'm not sure if it's time for me to move to medium format yet.

I'm also looking for a photography school, i looked into focal point and thought they are a good school until i found out they charge 25000 for the full diploma program. it would take me 3 years to save that much. Jim i'm going to take your word and take the courses in langara. really, thanks so much for the information, i was also in trouble looking for a school, that's why i came into this forum.