katie h.

<p><img src="<a href=" alt="" /><img src="http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/usckatieh/katieentry.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" />" alt="" />Studio duck</p>

Does anyone know where to find a d200 battery? Everyone seems to be

out of stock. I would like to use the d200 as my primary camera at

an up coming wedding but I don't like the idea of not having a spare

bettery for the d200(then having to switch to the d70). The d70

battery won't work in the d200 will it?

 

Katie

I've got a r04 error coming up on my d70 whenever I try to use

autofocus. I've tried multiple lenses, so it's not a lens problem.

The d70 will still release the shutter and focus manually so it

seems like just an AF problem. Nikon is working on an answer for

me. Is anyone else familiar with this issue?

 

Katie

I'm having trouble with my sb800 on my d70. With my sb28 in manual

mode, I always get a distance chart that tells me how close/far the

flash will be good for at a certain aperture. I can't get my sb800

in manual mode to show distances at all. It also won't go to GN

manual mode. The instruction manual shows distances on the screen

when in manual mode. Any ideas on how to get those distances to

show up?

 

Katie

Susan,

I've been in business for only a year, but I do initially design the album for my customers and so far they've loved it. I manage a photo lab so I get a good deal on prints, so I print one set of 4x6's of all of the photos for all my customers. This in itself ("you mean I really get pictures!") seems to draw old-school clients who aren't so excited about online or magazine style proofing. It also doesn't take me long to print the photos, so I go ahead and design the album (Flora Elite with slide-in inserts) with 4x6 pages only. I also print a layout showing what the photo #s are for each photo on each page. All the rest of the prints are put into a standard proof album. This is all delivered to the customer with 2-3 weeks of the wedding.

 

I do this for two main reasons. One, the photos have the most impact in their best presentation. I never think a wedding looks as good as I hoped when I'm flipping through a mountain of images. But, when the best are all together in a coherent design in a sleek album, the moments just shine. Two, I give the customers something nice that they can share with their family and friends as soon as they get the photos (and when they're most excited about them). This is good advertising for me.

 

Each package includes a certain # of enlargement pages (2-5x7s or 1-8x10), so when I deliver the album, I tell the customers to pick their favorites and I will enlarge those. I tell them I can either redesign the album with the enlargements included or they can keep the album as is and give the enlargements away as gifts. I also offer to switch out any photos that they don't like, so they have control over the design of their album.

 

I think I've done 7 albums so far and no one has changed their initial design. I like having control over design elements and honestly, most people enjoy not having to worry about the details. Plus, I always give those people who do want control, the option of having the album just how they want it. I post the web images within a week of album delivery. It may not be the most efficient system but it works well for myself and my customers. If you want more details, contact me.

 

Katie H

I personally like the Sigma 2.8 15mm fisheye. Of course it has distortion, but it's sharp and I can choose to highlight or minimize the distortion by how I shoot. And it's not terribly expensive.

 

Katie

In shooting weddings, I have come across the occasional person who

seemed to be blinking in every other photo, but this is a little

more challenging. I just did a portrait for a bride who is getting

married in Feb. I realized early on that we were having a blinking

problem but I had no idea to what extent...

 

I shot some MF no flash (most, but not all, turned out fine), some

MF with manual flash (60% blink rate) and some digital (sb800 on

d70, 95% blink rate when looking forward). And many of the ones

where her eyes weren't completely closed, they were half closed. We

have enough good ones for the portrait (mostly from the available

light) but I want to be as prepared for this situation as possible

for the wedding. It is an evening wedding so in most cases no flash

will not be an option. I tried the "ok, close your eyes and on 3

open them" but this could get tedious for the bride during the after

ceremony formals and it worked with mixed results. I understand

that the digital flash has preflash and may be causing her to

blink. Is there a way to turn that off? I can shoot 35mm but

anticipating some group shot head switching digital would be

better. Or would an older flash in manual on the d70 be better?

Please share any advice you have on equipment, technique or how to

approach this issue with the bride. Thanks!

 

Katie

Here's an example. I can't take credit because the guy I was assisting showed me the idea, but maybe it'll help you come up with some ideas.

 

Katie<div></div>

I know I'm coming in way late but I've often wondered the same thing with digital. What if the contrast is just too high? The picture below is one of my first attempts with digital. I didn't want to blow out the whites on her dress but the rest was left very underexposed. My solution was to select all the white areas, then inverse the selection and adjust only the darker areas. I had to repeat this method twice just to get to look I wanted (lighten the dark areas but keep the white with detail). I like the results but it's a tedious process. Is there a better solution? I wasn't sure the flash would have enough power.

 

Katie<div></div>

I'm lucky to have one more wedding in December, a bridal portrait next weekend (outdoors no less, I love South Carolina in the fall) and a couple of families that want portraits to send out with their christmas cards. As next month concludes my first offical year as a business, I'm pretty happy with my progress but I'm going to work on advertising and try to make a bridal show appearance.

 

Ben, you might consider a warehouse-type studio. The lease would be cheaper then retail space per square foot and you'd have plenty of room. I had a friend who made an enclosed office/changing area in the entrance of the warehouse and then had 3 different portrait areas in the open space. Just an idea.

 

Katie

I was hoping the manual could tell me better how the VR works.

 

Jim, thanks! You could email it to me (I think you can get my email by clicking on my name).

 

Specifically I'm trying to figure out if I can get the VR to work while the subject to walking towards me, such as the processional of a wedding. I sometimes get a hint of camera shake when trying to add some ambient light to the shot. My usual method of focusing is to prefocus and then touch the autofocus as the subject walks toward me until I get the shot I want. The method works well with the 35-70 2.8, but I'm guessing that it might not give the VR time to engage. Would prefocusing and locking the focus at my preferred distance better allow the VR to engage?

I just got a used 24-120 VR lens used from KEH and I'm looking to

download instructions, but couldn't find any. If anyone knows where

I can find instructions, please let me know. Thanks.

 

Katie

Thanks for the tip, Marc.

It might be just me but I can't get any of the images on your site to enlarge enough to look at them.

 

Katie

I was hoping to use my sb28 as an off camera flash (set off by a

pocketwizard), but I seem to be having trouble keeping the flash

from going into standby mode- and therefore not firing. I read the

instructions for turning off the standby mode (turn flash off, press

on/off button and mode button until "stby" does not appear in bottom

right), but even with no "stby" indicator at the bottom the flash

switches into standby after about 30 seconds. Does anyone know how

to avoid this?

Katie

I like the first one in the gallery (of the lady dancing). Great lighting and emotion.

 

Katie

Thank you everyone for helping me get some ideas. I can't wait to put these pocket wizards to good use! Thanks!

 

Katie

I bought myself some pocket wizards for my birthday and I have a few

questions. I'd like to use a few of my shoe mount flashes as extra

lights but I'm not sure how to work out the equipment aspects.

 

I'd like to shoot one or two flashes into an umbrella on a light

stand for the formals. I've found a few adapters that attach one

shoemount flash to the light stand but I can't find one that would

hold two. Would a shoe mount flash even have enough power? For the

reception, I'd like to have an assistant carry a shoe mount flash on

the top of a monopod (or something like that). I'm having trouble

finding a good monopod for carrying and I'm not sure how to attach

the flash to the top (stroboframe maybe?). I know some of you work

with multiple lighting and I was wondering how you work out these

issues.

 

I also have a Sunpak handle mount flash, but the shoe mounts are

lighter. Would the handle mount be a better choice for this setup?

 

I'm really excited about trying multiple lighting. Any suggestions

on equipment or technique would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Katie

Thank you for all the insightful answers. I'm trying out some shots for a local interior designer who has never had a photographer before so right now the expectations aren't really high yet. But if I'm going to make an investment I'd like it be useful for years to come so it's good to know my options. Thanks!

 

Katie

I am interested in learning about interior design/ architecture

photography and I was wondering what would be a good lens for use on

the D70 and N80.

 

I have been told that a 20mm lens would be good choice. Is the

manual focus 20mm any sharper or better corrected (for distortion)

than the AF 20mm? The crop factor on the D70 is an issue also. How

wide can I go without getting bad distortion? Would the 18-70 kit

lens be sharp enough (if anyone has one to sell, I'm looking to buy-

B&H is out of stock)?

 

Thanks in advance for your help,

 

Katie

I'm no expert but here's my two cents.

 

I like how your subjects don't seem to be aware of your presences- makes the photos feel very intimate. For suggestions, in the bride/bridemaids shot, two girls look like they're hiding behind the columns. I'd also crop closer on the groom alone photo. The dancing shot is great. I'd love to see more. Nice job.

Let me recommend against getting the Sigma 70-200 2.8 or any other Sigma for that matter. I have used the 70-200 2.8 with great results with my Nikon film cameras, but when I use it on the D70 it has severe backfocusing issues. I've had trouble getting Sigma to give me any answers about resolving this issue because my serial # is not low enough. So either way, I'd go Nikon knowing what I know now.

 

Katie

Another late wedding story--

 

A few months ago, I was scheduled to shoot the bride getting ready at her home and then travel to her outdoor wedding. Her wedding was scheduled for 4:00pm. At 4:05, we were still at the bride's house doing her hair and her reponse was "it's my wedding and they won't start without me so I'll be late if I want to." At 4:45, when she was struggling to fix final details on her dress, she began to panic. I left with her still halfway in her dress and got to the wedding site and hour after the ceremony was supposed to start. I assured all the guests and a nervous groom (who had all been waiting outside on a hot humid day) that "yes, the bride is still coming." We finally got the ceremony started a hour and a half after it scheduled time.<div></div>

I have one camera loaded with either Delta 3200 or Portra 800 at most weddings. I shoot the Delta at 1600 and have my lab develop for 3200. It can make for some really lovely shots and I think it does a great job showing the tonalities of whites on the bride's dress. I love that film for "getting ready shot." I do try to show a few shots to my customers beforehand to see how/if they like the look. Have fun.

 

Katie<div></div>

Every once in a while I will get one shot that can summerize the emotion and character of an event better than any others. Usually it's an available light shot (they seem more real to me) with beautiful lighting and great timing. And I work for it. Once I get those must-have shots, I'm always walking around my subject looking for the best angle, the best lighting, trying to be ready for the right moment. Sometimes it works out, sometimes it doesn't so I supposed it's planning and spontaneity that makes what I feel is a great shot. This one is from my last wedding with a 85 1.8 on Portra 800. I'd love to see everyone else's pictures too!<div></div>