jovan

<p>Sorry, a small correction is needed because previous photo was taken with f-stop on f2.0 (not 4.0)</p>

<p>And now on Digital :)</p><div></div>

<p>Turned to f1.4 is much easier :)</p><div></div>

<p>Uh, hard question. I used wall mirror and tryed manually to focus on nikkor lens letters or to focus on my eye. (use optical finder, use of LV would spoil the fun) and then when correct sharpens was reached remembers focus point indicators position.<br /><br />Happens that correct sharpness on my lens is just at point of transition from < to O .</p>

<p> <img src="file:///F:/D7000/004/DSC_2011-ACD-2.jpg" alt="" width="796" height="796" /></p><div></div>

<p><strong>Seems that this is an example of Nikon D7000 - Banding problem, it seems that similar problems Nikon D200 had few years ago.</strong></p>

<p>Hm, that seams after about 40-50 good shots in a row (in JPG) it's starts appearing, regardless of settings, ISO and lighting conditions. Its time for visiting local Nikon service no doubt about that.</p><div></div>

<p>Yes, and they are excellent for low light and wide open shallow DOF shots. Also very interesting for film-making (movie recoding) one of main reason may also be because with them there is no AF motor sounds and no AF hunting for focus.</p>

<p>Thanks All for responding, I try with reinstalling firmware 1.02 as Johnny proposed but with no effect.<br>

Matt, when camera start producing artifacts (losing it self) those lines appears on all JPG-s regardless of JPG size/resolution and compression quality regardless of picture control and ISO value. I try with reset and various user settings but camera function seams to have no affect on produced picture (with stripes). Yes you can easily see when your picture is affected on camera LCD display and even zoom in/out as it is all fine, although you have mess up picture with stripes easily recognizable by Morrie effect.<br>

Jarry, camera seams to work mechanically and over all fine all the time, but when Gremlins start controlling it those lines start appearing but just in JPG mode. I send official request to Nikon online support for furred instruction regarding solving that problem.<br>

Again thank all for responding :)</p>

<p>a similar photo shot taken in RAW format...</p><div></div>

<p>Hi All,<br /> Do any of you had experience with the problem of dark vertical lines that appear throughout the picture, especially in low light and hi contrast situations?<br /> My Nikon D7000 is just one month old and has firmware 1.02 and has no more than 2000 shots so far, and is 100% mechanically functional but while shooting pictures in JPG format it gets some artifacts on whole frame (it looks like old curtain with stripes) ...as you can see on attached 100% crop example.<br /><br /> Thanks in advance for helpful advices if you have them.<br /> p.s. Fortunately in RAW mode it does not yet appear :)</p><div></div>

<p>Look at <a href="http://lost-time-story.blogspot.com/">http://lost-time-story.blogspot.com/</a> and you'll find how Nikkor 50mm f 1.2 Ai is performing.<br>

p.s. Excuse me for mistake in previous writing where I put<em> shell</em> instead of <em>should</em> :)</p>

H eh, what shell I say and manage to avoid repeating my self :)

If you wont sharp normal then 50mm 1/1.8 or 1/2 is only option,

But, If you desire Lo-light Nikon master lens with 1/2 of EV (exposition value) better then 1.4, with so shallow Depth of Field and Bokeh... there is no real alternative to 50mm f1.2 ...or maybe Noct-Nikkor 58mm f1.2 ( very expensive).

Search for my previous postings and you will find tests and pictures taken with that lens.

<p>P.S. I won't bet on Sigma if I am you, even if they ware 'EX' mark. Nikon 50mm f 1.8 AF is one of the sharpest Nikon lenses ever made, although it is really cheap one. On D700 full format camera famous by it's low light capabilities that 1/2 stop will not mater so much after all.</p>

 

<p>Hi Natalie,<br>

If you are really interested in landscape photography then some prime Nikon 24mm 2.8 ( or even some 20mm) will be my recommendation.<br>

Some 28mm is OK but it is not wide enough to justify its purchase against 35mm 1.8 that you already own.<br>

On other (Telephoto) side, 85mm 1.8 is fine lens for portraits but it will prove to wide in to many occasions outside and I can hardly justify it regrading those two 50's that you have. My recommendation will be some good 105mm or even (unjustly neglected by many) 135mm lens.<br>

My recommendations are based on more then 20years of not disrupted experience with Laica 135 aka FX Full frame 35mm format cameras, ( a part of that time is more then 18 years of my experience with Nikon's film cameras and lenses)</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Here's a question: When was the last time anyone , in this thread, has shot 35mm film ? I ask because if there IS any difference, if you haven't used film in years, you may have forgotten something about how it looks. I don't know if this is true, but we can all get used to something, after we do it long enough.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Fortunately I do, and I understand that sup-tail but still such hard to explain difference. To see it you need not only to take pictures on film but develop and make prints using analog NOT digital photo printer or use you one manual-analog light emitted printer.<br>

You will see that film emulsion do have tickles, and that some silver crystals are focused exposed and aligned in 3d. You will also realize that there is film grain that is not colorized and uniform but unique.<br>

But I you really want to see difference try roll 120 6x6cm or lager formats on slides.</p>

Digital cult cameras !?... you must be kidding! <br>

<br>

Only legendary thing with all those prosumer and consumer stuff is that they buried old aristocracy of film <br> (silverhalid) cameras and introduce mass photography to wide masses. <br>

There is no cult in masses and mediocre only brave new and distinctive can become cult one. <br>

Nikon D1 was cult one, Nikon D3 and eventually D700 will become one. <br>

And if we look to the Nikon D70 or D200 we will find loot more space to PROCLAIM them as cult one's. <br>

<br>

Eh, Nikon F2 AS and F5 are real cult legends !!! :()

Dear Jim,<br> your viewfinder LCD display has been UNLATCHED from its position above penta-prism. <br> I experienced same problems after I receive mine from repairing back in 2001'. <br> Back then mine N90s was revered in official Nikon service. <br> They changed transport mechanism and shutter curtain and do regular cleaning of whole camera. <br> After a few days LCD display in viewfinder stop working, green beck light was functioning but LCD was DEAD! <br> I take it back to service for reclamation, and they fix it in no time for free :) <br>

<div></div>

Two pictures in succession one is taken with f2.8 second is f5.6 <br>

taken with Nikon F90x(n90s) and Fuji Superia 200ASA, <br> both pictures are down sized by 50%. <br><div></div>

Now I will demonstrate how one of forgotten classics MF Nikon 135mm f2.8 AI

perform in real life sitations. <br>

<br>

I try to find MTF or any other test of optical performance of this really

marvelous and compact lens. <br>

Before I do testing of my one, I would like to share with you my real life

experience. <br><div></div>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<div></div>

As I can see you have lenses to cover range from 12 to 200 mm

Becouse I prefere fast lenses with superb optical perfomance... <br>

I will recomend you: <br>

Nikkor 50mm F1.2 AIS to subtitute Nikkor 45mm F2.8P <br>

and Nikkor 35mm F1.4 AIS. <br>

Becouse you all ready have 85mm and 70-200mm VR <br> so Nikkor 105mm F2.8 VR Micro range is covered (exept if you prefere macro shots). <br>

Sory Matt I try to find that Nikkor 24-85 3.5-4.5 AFS-G lense on Nikon official website and I realy can't find it :( <br>

But I find Nikkor 24-85mm f/2.8-4D IF with 1:2 macro <br> and 2 Hybrid and molded-glass aspherical lens elements for higher optical performance.<br>