lawrence_plummer

<p>Unfortunately, USPS Media Mail does not include magazines. The reason being, that it contains advertising. The flat rate boxes are definitely the optimal approach.</p>

<p>With regards to your question about image dpi size, you want to set<br>

Output tab, Printed size ==> Scan size<br>

larry</p>

<p>I've been using the 3880 profile from the EpsonWideFormat group on Yahoo Groups for the last five years and it works great.<br /> <a id="yui_3_15_0_1_1408040942302_948" href="https://xa.yimg.com/df/EpsonWideFormat/Epson+3880_KirklandPP_10-28-2009_1.icc?token=i_7uFmCbyz-GnmiKkyqR7K07wcdQ8iGU8OGAD6HkByZpKzucVZgc3wmlW8Qhiet73-umRu6Am9VpTjrCAz49jhpkzIO9YP7p8bsSSvBMwfDPi3tFGnrjKLSGyDAO9OSYOCGjljsqEQ&type=download" data-rapid_p="24">Epson 3880_KirklandPP_10-28-2009_1.icc</a><br>

Sorry, I just realized you were looking for the 3800 profile, not the 3880 profile! I assume you've tried the Epson profile, "Epson Premium Glossy Photo Paper"?</p>

<p>I simply called Olympus USA and asked if I could purchase a printed manual. They said no, but they would mail me one for free. It's a nicely bound 6x8 inch book.</p>

<p>I have two G2's, both with a tiny amount of bleeding in the frame counter LCD's. In each case it is not affecting usability and hasn't really changed over time.</p>

<p>I'm assuming you have this link:<br>

<a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/zuiko/htmls/3570mm.htm">http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/zuiko/htmls/3570mm.htm</a><br>

The f3.6 version is always considered to be the finest of the five 35-70mm lenses. I will definitely agree. It is very, very good.<br>

larry</p>

<p>With the 21mm, you can still use the built-in finder for focus confirmation/locking. Once you lock the focus, you can use the external finder for framing the shot.</p>

<p>Here you go:<br>

<a href="http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/om-sif/lensgroup/manuals/35mm_f28_shift.pdf">http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/om-sif/lensgroup/manuals/35mm_f28_shift.pdf</a><br>

<a href="http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/om-sif/lensgroup/manuals/24mm_f35_shift.pdf">http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/om-sif/lensgroup/manuals/24mm_f35_shift.pdf</a><br>

larry</p>

<p>According to <a href="http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/LensXCoatings.txt">http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/LensXCoatings.txt</a>, it would appear to be single coated.</p>

<p>Sorry, but it is very definitely a zoom flash! The switch on top of the flash sets the zoom to 28, 35, 45 and 90. If this were not set correctly for the 28mm, it would very much contribute to vignetting. Look inside the flash lens and move the switch. You can see it zoom.</p>

<p>Hi Nicholas, I also have one, and enjoy it a lot. It is a very fun lens to use.<br>

<a href="http://homepages.caverock.net.nz/~bj/solstice/2005/Lawrence_Plummer2.htm">http://homepages.caverock.net.nz/~bj/solstice/2005/Lawrence_Plummer2.htm</a><br>

larry</p>

<p>Robert, I think you have this somewhat backwards! The green label indicates that the camera has had the firmware update. The original label was a silver one, I believe. (<a href="http://contaxg.com/contaxuser/lenses.html#lensmods">http://contaxg.com/contaxuser/lenses.html#lensmods</a>).</p>

<p>Paul, the data collection is enabled by setting the switch inside the back to ON (labeled, EXP.DATA IMPRINT). When you set this to on and close the back, the film will wind to frame 3. During the rewind, the data is imprinted onto frames 1 and 2. During the imprinting, a light on the back will blink, while printing. It takes about 20 seconds to imprint. When done, the counter will blink at 00.</p>

<p>When the switch is turned off, if you set the back to some mode other than the one with all dashes (-- ---- ----), it will imprint between the frames, using the display mode setting.</p>

<p>I have the manual and can scan to a PDF, if interested (English, French, German or Spanish). I can probably do it by this weekend. PM me if interested.<br>

larry</p>

<p>There is a fairly good list, showing date of introduction, at: <a href="http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/multicoat.txt">http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/multicoat.txt</a><br>

larry</p>

Yes, this is an artifact of the breach mount mechanism. When mounted the slash and f-stop markings rotate into alignment.

My favorites, 100mm/f2, 18mm, 21mm/f2, 28mm/f2 and 500mm.

Is there any chance that this is an issue with the frame line unit being sticky (usually

grease)? My M6 had this problem and produced several, rather strange frame line

problems in appearance. It was a fairly cheap repair with DAG.

 

larry

Q1 response: I have two G2's, both with six digit serial numbers, one with a single leading zero, and the other with two leading zeroes. Both cameras look and feel the same.

 

larry

Russ, I had the same tragedy with my 18mm. I was able to have Olympus repair mine. This was only a couple years ago, I would contact them (New York, I believe, see the official Oly web site) and see if it is still possible.

 

larry

If you want to do multiple exposure, you will need to use either the manual winder or the more advanced power grip, the WG401. I've bought from him via EBAY, the transaction was perfect. It looks like he also has the WG401, perhaps you could get him to switch. KEH also has the WG401, for less than $90.

 

larry

I had one streaking issue with my FS4000 using VueScan. It turned out that I had upgraded the version of the software and a previous version's calibration file was being used, causing the streaking. In this case, it just required the file to be deleted so that a new one could be generated. This was also shown by running the Canon software with it, it did not show the streaking.

Kenmore still sells 120. For a quick turn around, Capital Hill Photo (on 15th Ave., between Pine and Pike sts.) does an excellent job on 120. I typically get process only in an hour.

Unfortunately, they only provide manuals for the camera bodies on the download site. It turns out that if you email them (MAC Group), they will send you a PDF file for the manual you'd like. I sent one to Jim.

These two settings are used in conjunction with the AE Prism Finder. AE puts the camera into auto exposure mode, AEL is used to lock the exposure, allowing you to reframe the shot.

Photographic Center Northwest usually has quite a few workshops on Photoshop (http://www.pcnw.org/school/workshops.php). They are on Capital Hill (12th, across from Seattle U).