jnicholson

<p>Robert, Sarah and others have it right. Take it in. I just finished this exact process with Canon. I took mine to the Irvine service center. It is a flat fee of $269 total. My problems were exactly as you described. The Err 01 would come and go until finally it happened all the time...until the day I took it to the service center. It just would not fail on the camera. Even still, the guy took it from me, looked in the front of the lens, stopped it down manually and said he could see that it was failing. I say take it in.<br>

One thing though, if you've never been to the service center don't expect to run in the door, drop it off and be on your way. They don't rush anyone and so it can take some time waiting your turn.<br>

Gook luck.</p>

<p>A shot in the dark but are you maybe using AEB and does the Mark II let you set half stop increments?</p>

<p>If you really do need low light capability then I'd think the IS on the 17-55 would make this an easy decision. I guess it depends on what your low light needs are. For me, the 17-55 is invaluable and I own all the other lenses you mention except the Sigma.</p>

<p>My 5D mirror fell off its mount about three months ago, two days before I needed it for a wedding. It turns out that it's a very common occurrence with the 5D. The mirror is held in with glue only. Search this site and the web for 5D mirror and super glue and you'll find instructions on repairing it yourself. Make sure you use the gel type. That's what I did and it worked fine. I've probably had somewhere around 3000 shutter operations since the repair and so far so good. Good luck...</p>

<p>Someone cautioned us not to forget that Canon is a business. This is so very true, and like many other businesses these days they are trying to squeeze every possible nickel out of their patrons. Clearly the 60D is a result of careful market research on the part of Canon. My guess is that Canon is looking to force, as best they can, existing X0D users into the 7D and better line...squeeze out a few hundred dollars more per head. They know most won't "upgrade" to the 60D and probably only less than a few will switch brands because of this manipulation. Naming this 600D the 60D is no mistake.</p>

<p>My first dSLR was the 300D. I remember with fondness when I took my 20D out of the box. The construction was far superior. It felt like a solid camera. The squeeks and flexing of the plastic body had always bothered me. Don't let anyone convince you that the plastic body is an acceptable replacement.</p>

<p>To me the 60D is Canon yet again thumbing its corporate nose at the most loyal segment of its user base..."You'll buy what we tell you to buy when we tell you to buy it."</p>

<p>The 60D and the massive increase in price of Canon's newer L lenses (for example the 300mm f2.8) have done nothing but convince me to stop shoveling money in Canon's direction.  They've helped me see that what I've got is good enough for quite some time to come.  </p>

<p>Sorry, forgot my manners. Thanks for the response Nadine.</p>

<p>WW, if the OP actually means "everything" then my guess is that it's user error. A simple case of using aperture priority mode, opening the lens wide open and not heeding the camera's warning that, with flash installed, no suitable shutter speed can be found.</p>

<p>Just a guess but that's the most likely scenario in my mind.</p>

<p>Given that this thread is over a year old I'm not sure this question will get any visibilty but here goes: </p>

<p>Can someone explain why the wide angle shot above, by Steve C (a very nice shot), has to be shot using HSS? It would seem to me you could achieve the same results using a 1/200th shutter speed at f16 and just let the flash do its fill thing using normal sync. Given the lens that's being used it doesn't seem to me that the aperture is being used to control DOF. So, I'm figuring I'm missing something and am hoping someone can help me out.</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p>I just received this lens. My expectations aren't high. I got it for fun and to see if I can apply a fisheye to any of my daily photography. </p>

<p>Two comments so far: (1) The audacity of the red ring just cracks me up. I guess I can feel better about my purchase. (2) Mounted on the camera or held around the aperture ring, a gentle push on the edge of the top or bottom petal reveals a disturbing wobble. It's definately noticable when you're looking through the viewfinder and working the lens.</p>

<p>Finally, here are two nothing special image. The first image was taken with the lens on a 40D. The second was taken on a 5D. Just FYI.</p>

<p>(Just in case, here's the URL to the picture <a href="../photo/9850221">http://www.photo.net/photo/9850221</a>. I haven't inserted a picture into a comment for a while. So far I can't get the insert image button in the message control to work.)</p><div></div>

<p>I'd bet that the PW isn't making good contact with the hotshoe.</p>

<p>Pixel size remains the same regardless of how many are actually processed and stored. So, no your argument doesn't work for me.</p>

<p>I have it but I definately don't love it. I also have the 24-70 and use them both on a 5D. I always grab the 70 before the 105 if I'm using a zoom in that range for portraits or just about anything else for that matter. I do most of my shooting in low light conditions and I just wouldn't want to live without the 2.8.<br>

Also, it may just be in my head because I haven't done any side-by-side comparisons but I think there's more distortion at the wide end on the 105.<br>

I originally bought the 105 as a good "vacation" lens but I've finally decided that vacations are just no time for serious photography. So a G7 does most of the vaction work these days.</p>

<p>I just put tape right on the front element of the lens. It protects the lens so I don't have to worry about whether or not to use a UV filter or lens hood.<br>

I say tape if you want to tape...don't tape if you don't want to tape. Use a UV if you want to...don't if you don't. Use a lens hood if you want to...don't if you don't. Use a Canon if you want to...Nikon if you have to.</p>

I'm with Andy and Neill.

 

I have definately seen the 28-135mm give less than desired results when I've forgotten proper technique. It makes sense, at least to me, that the system takes time to measure, settle down, then start the IS lens group in motion.

 

I actually keep IS off and turn it on when I think it's appropriate. It's just one of many tools we have to work with but that doesn't mean it's useful in every circumstance. Just my opinion anyway.

Sorry, momentary lapse of reason: Heart rate's fine.

At one beat per second that would be one super efficient human heart.

 

The frequency of a relatively slow olcillatory movement does not translate directly to the amount of movement of the image on the sensor. The magnitude of that movement is what would count in your telescope example. This doesn't really help explain what IS is compensating for, if anything, at a shutter speed of 1/2000. I agree that shutter speed is what counts but still fail to see how IS is helping at this end of the shutter speed range.

 

To the original post, they are both fine lenses but, for me, the 400/5.6 is always the one I pick up for birds and especially birds in flight. You will miss the occasional shot without the zoom range but for birds in flight it's very, very rare. Just my opinion, of course. I bought the 400/5.6 for one reason: It has the least amount of glass from the front of the lens to the back and it produces tack sharp images.

 

Good luck with your choice...

Mark C, you say "...even at 1/2000 or faster...". In EF Lens Work III, Canon state the following:

<p>

<i>The IS lens group is driven directly by a moving coil. It is small, light, and highly responsive with excellent control. It can handle a wide frequency range (approx. 0.5 Hz. to 20Hz.)</i>

<p>

I don't get how that range, even if improved in newer technology IS, is going to yield improved results at 1/2000 shutter speeds. What am I missing?

Thanks, I appreciate the prompt feedback. Jeff, I stand corrected.

Thanks for the kind words.

 

No matter what camera, if any, you end up taking, Jay, you really have to manage the exposure. Don't rely on auto-anything. If you do you'll more than likely end up with a bunch of overexposed faces.

 

Again, good luck.

Windows XP, IE7. Sorry, should've included that to begin with. I'm not sure that clearing the cache would be helpful in this case but if it happens again I'll certainly give it a try.

 

For what it's worth, I just tried the same thing with this comment and it worked fine.

I was just adding a comment in the Canon EOS forum. I typed my remarks, hit

Submit, read my comments on the Confirm page and realized I needed to change a

couple of things. I hit my browser's back button. I moved back one page but

my comments were no longer in the comment edit box. Luckily I could go

forward, copy the content and paste it back in the edit box. Seems like that

shouldn't be necessary. Thanks.

Ane one more:<div></div>

Now I'll try a China shot:<div></div>

Jay, should be a fun show.

 

For what it's worth, I have a G7, G3 and a slew of Canon dSLRs. If these pictures are mostly for your brother, he's not going to give a rats if there's a little noise or even a lot of noise. The fact that he has pictures from the concert he went to will be the most important thing. Granted the G7 (can't speak for the G9 but I'm sure it's about the same) is noisy at high ISOs but it still might be a good choice.

 

I was faced with the same problem taking my daughter to a Simple Plan concert a couple of years ago. It wasn't as big a venue as you'll have but I was happy with what I got. I took in my G3 after the kind ticket lady told me that no way was I getting in with my dSLR. I ended up making a montage of the pictures I took and had it printed at 24x36. My daughter loves the image and no poster bought at the concert could come close to meaning as much to her. So that's one idea...make a montage of images so no one shot needs to be too big. Hopefully, my montage is attached.

 

Another thing to keep in mind with the G9: It has a movie mode. Again, the quality will be poor but your brother would probably love it. Just take lots of memory.

 

I bought a G7 specifically to take to China. I didn't want to lug all my camera gear around as I've done for so many vacations. It couldn't have been a better decision. The G cameras are outstanding even with the high ISO noise. I'll try to attach a picture or two from a show in China taken inside, obviously with no flash.

 

Good luck and enjoy the show.<div></div>

Unless the thug steals the camera too...

 

The TC-80N3 is a great tool. My only beef with it is that you have to allow for a minimum of one second between continuous bulb exposures.