attila_thehun

FWIW, I have an answer.

 

As SWMBO would say, "size matters" <G>, or more particularly the length. Some 2.5mm mono plugs are shorter than others - these won't latch into the socket reliably and spring out at the wrong moment (often triggering the flash). This was happening to me.

 

The Portaflash Series 3 leads work OK, as do some that came in a cheapo buy on eBay.

 

AtH

Very many thx - AtH

Hi. I'm trying to identify this bracket, stamped " ETRsi ". Any

assistance will be gratefully received.

<P>

<CENTER><IMG src="http://www.streaky-

bacon.co.uk/Pictures/ETRSi_Plate.jpg"></CENTER>

<P>

Many thx - AtH

Trivial question, but the answer is important to me.

 

I just acquired two Wotan (Osram) SC18 flashes for small studio use.

They incorporate a slave, but are also cord triggered. It's not a PC

sync socket though. It appears to be some sort of miniature "jack"

socket - but I have no idea what.

 

Does anyone have one of these and/or know what leads I should be

searching for, or alternatively, whether there is a PC sync

to "miniature plug" adapter that would work.

 

All help very gratefully received, many thx - AtH

On sep 29, 2004; 03:45 p.m. Mark Plawchan posted, "Hey! I've purchased everything conceivable on eBay ..."

 

I thought it was against eBay policy to sell babies <G>

 

AtH

I very recently refreshed the NiCads in a 45-40 batery pack that I bought as "dead" in eBay. Fitted 2,500mAh batteries at a fraction of the cost of a Metz pack.

 

Remember though to:

 

a) Buy "tagged" rechargeable batteries;

 

c) Note the arrangement of the old batteries very carefully before removing them;

 

c) Snip off and reuse the long strip of metal that joins the top of two batteries but plunges down between them (to clear a moulding strut inside the holder).

 

Charge the new batteries for many hours - the first charge on mine took 36 hours (with a Metz 402-12d charger) before it delivered full voltage.

 

AtH

Most of the more recent larger filters are easy to cut to size, as they are plastic not glass. A fine-toothed saw should work OK with a little bevelling off using fine abrasive - AtH

Why not try a dab of a cyanoacetate adhesive to hold the bush in place and to ensure that gluing will not impede operation. Then you can decide on a more permanent repair. The adhesive can be removed with one of the special solvents if necessary- AtH

Did you sort it out? I have an AE-II without a manual. I guess that the dial marked "A" (red spot) "M" on the RHS switches between Automatic>Off>Manual. I guess too that the dial marked 2..X1..1/2 at the bottom of the ASA selector on the LHS adjusts the ASA setting ... but by how much I don't know. Anyone help me on this please?

Bear in mind that the standard diopter eyepiece in Bronica viewfinders (WLF, Prism E & E-II) is -1.5 (that's minus 1.5). So work from there in terms of your prescription. The range of diopters for these viewfinders is +1.5 to -4.5 - AtH

Search ("butkus etr") for an online reference copy of the ETR manual - AtH

If anyone is interested, there's one on Ebay at present. BTW - I

have no commercial interest in this whatsoever.

 

A recent convert to MF, I was reading about the lens on another

website and (serendipity maybe?) saw this one advertised.

 

AtH

 

[Hope this - my first - post does not break forum policy]