kithg

I've been using Nikon View to convert my NEFs to tiffs for further processing since I got my D50. In my opinion, it handles color better than CS2 ACR. If I have a lens issue I need to correct in ACR, I may skip the NV step, but if there's sensitive color involved, it's absolutely the better converter of the two.

I had this blue border around a picture of a purple iris I took last spring. I've never seen it before or since. Not cheap optics either. Nikon 18-200 VR. But only that one time, it happened, and also around purple.<div></div>

The Benjamin Franklin Bridge From Below, Philadelphia, PA, USA<div></div>

Mine is similar. Doesn't stop it from taking very nice pictures.

Thanks Eliot and Peter. This is not a problem bad enough for me to villify the lens and immediately offer it for sale on e-bat. It's just something I've noticed on a few of my pictures under very specific circumstances. I consider it part of my eye-training that I'm now seeing things I used to miss. Peter, your three step process makes a lot of sense. Thanks.

Thanks very much for all of your answers. I appreciate your clarity and promptness very much.

Hello, I have an 18-200 VR lens that I use on my D50. I've had the lens since

February, but the longer I shoot, the more educated my eye is becoming, and

I'm seeing things I didn't used to notice. Every so often, I will find a one

or two pixel outline of some subject in blue or bluish purple. It's likliest

to happen if the background is light, but not necessarily. I've had a bright

blue outline around a purple iris against a green background. Or purple

outlines of tree branches against our classic Philadelphia "white sky of

summer." My question is this: Is this outlining (I'm not sure what to call

it.) a fault I can send this lens back to Nikon to fix? Or is it one of the

compromises one needs to accept in a very long zoom like the 18-200? Thanks

for your experience!

Three Great Egrets<div></div>

Are you asking, "When does what you see through the viewfinder match what you see with your eyes?" It's about 70mm for me, too. I'm basing it roughly on size. Using the same camera and lens, by the way, but I noticed this long ago with an old Nikon film P & S camera. It had a zoom, and I found myself nearly always shooting at between 70 and 80mm because that's what my eye was seeing without the camera attatched. I'm not sure "perspective," is the right term, though it has prompted a fascinating thread, here.

I had an 18-55. It's fine as far as it goes, but I found that mine had a rather small sweet spot. I could only get sharp between about 24mm and about 45mm or so at f8 or f11. So you can get quite nice pictures on a real sunny day or with full flash. I sold it and upgraded.

Wait, that posted bigger than it was supposed to. If it had been smaller, would it be displaying? How are some pictures displaying, while others are urls?

How about this?<div></div>

Really pink flamingo. Right file.<div></div>

Sorry. Wrong file!<div></div>

Those are mighty pale flamingos.<div></div>

Thanks Shun and Gerald.

Does anyone have a handle on how long Nikon usually takes to fix a

D50 under warrentee? My D50 went in the day after Christmas because

Autofocus stopped working, and I'm wondering when I'm likely to see

it again. I feel like a mother who's small child has just left for

sleep-away camp for the first time! Thanks in advance. Kit

I agree. My 28-105 has been my walking around lens through two cameras. It made the jump to DSLR well. It has no wide end on a DSLR, but it does what it does very well, and the macro function makes it very versatile. It's a fun lens to use. You'll enjoy it. Kit

I have a 28-105 that I used originally with my N50. I loved it then for its range and its clarity. I now use it with my D50 and I still love it, although I do miss the wide angles. It has a bonus, in that it has a bit of macro ability which is a lot of fun to play with. It is crisp and contrasty, when I do my part right. It is not a fast focuser, however. It takes its time and racks a bit to be sure of itself. But it is much sharper than the kit lenses on either of my cameras. I think you'll be very happy with it. Kit

I spent the other day trying my SB20 with my D50. I have to use it

in M or A mode because it won't TTL, but an SB600 or 800 is out of

the question right now. The SB20 did pretty well with bounce and

direct, but fill-flash is not auto with this set-up. I've heard that

you can control the flash output by varying the aperture setting on

the flash. So does that mean that with the aperture set at 22 you

would get less flash than if it were set to 5.6 or more?

Also, when I was first asking this forum if I could do this without

hurting my camera, someone suggested using an SB22s rather than my

SB20. Why is that?

Thanks for your help. Kit

Very clean-looking. Nice. Kit

I bought my D50 with the advice of this forum - several postings worth of advice. Now I'm selling my SLR in the classifieds. It was time to subscribe. Thanks for all the great photographs that I hope I eventually learn from and for the community. Kit

I did this research last spring. The Sony DSC V3 was the fastest shutter lag I found. Panasonic FZ5 was next and has a longer zoom plus IS/VR. They're both reasonably small. The Sony has 7MP, I believe. Neither is as fast as a DSLR, which is why I bought a D50. Good luck.

Kit

If you want a digital camera, pick up a Nikon D50 and see how you like it. But don't buy the kit lens. It won't be adequate for your needs. At least get the 18-70, or if you can the 17-55 f2.8. Kit

All I can say is that I didn't go for the E-volt because Olympus has a bad habit of introducing a product line and then abandoning it. So then you're stuck with a camera and no way to either add to your kit or fix things if they go wrong. The OM sytem was fine - they just dumped it. So how long do you think it will take them to dump this? That said, some of their P & S cameras are among the best, both film and digicams.