robin_odland

<p>I too just picked up a Toyo 45cf and have been using a gitzo 1128 with a RRS small ball-head w/ quick release and find it to be stable (not windy conditions). My gut feeling is that I wouldn't gain much by moving to a more stable tripod/head set-up, in view of the general stability of the camera itself. While I like the 45cf for its light weight--it is way more unstable than my other 4x5 (Ebony) camera.</p>

Fritz

Anne

Fritz<div></div>

I can't comment on either Crain's profile or Colorburst's, but the profile produced by for Imageprint, by colorbyte is spectacular--at least for the Epson 4000.

 

This is a great paper.

I am aware of the compensation that is required due to the focusing bellows, which should simply be in addition to the compensation needed due to the extension tube, I would think.

 

Does Mamiya produce a chart on this?

How much exposure compensation do I need with an 87mm extension tube (Mamiya

#2-for the RB-67)?

 

Thanks for the advise

If I were you, I would get either the 24L or the 35L for low light street and, if you can swing it, the 17-40.

 

I have both of these primes and the 16-35. The primes are much sharper in my opinion. Even though the 16-35 is an F/2.8, I still go for the primes when I need a fast lens.

 

From what I gather the 17-40 is every bit as sharp as the 16-35, so I would simply replace your lens--in that category if you need a zoom.

 

Robin

I own the 24-70 f/2.8 and a number of primes 24 f/1.4, 35 f/1.4, 50 f/1.4 85 f/1.4 and find that I am using my primes most of the time indoors. I can't comment on the new IS, but I think Paul's input is very apt; if you are chasing young children, you need fast lenses.

 

With the 10d, I would consider the 24 f/1.4 and the 24-85 lens (f/3-f/4.5 or somthing like that)

I am wondering if anyone knows whether canon has any plans to upgade

the 1Ds Mark II, like they did for the 1D Mark II (i.e. the new 1Ds

Mark II N).

 

I would love the larger screen in the 1D Mark II N. Since it is

roughly the same body, it seems like a fairly simple upgrade.

 

Thanks in advance for any insight on this matter.

Craig,

 

I actually went the other way around--going from a 1dMKII to an EOS3. I did so, mainly to have an option to shoot extremely long exposures, without the associated digital noise.

 

One thing you should think about is how much you like/depend upon the Eos 3 focusing/exposure system. The 1dmkII uses the same system as the Eos 3, which I prefer. I chose the Eos 3 for this reason.

 

I am really enjoying the Eos 3--particularly the portability, but I probably use my digital 70% of the time.

 

Robin

I just purchased a new computer with a 320gb RAID 0 drive, and a

250mb non-RAID drive. I was thinking of partitioning the RAID into

two volumes, and running Photoshop in one (the same directory as the

OS), and running the scratch space for Photoshop in an other. I was

also then planning to store photos on the non RAID drive.

 

Does this make sense to everyone? Or is there a more optimal

configuration.

 

Thanks,

 

Robin