dabitz

From my own experience, I had both, sold the SB800 which I regret. The SB-600 is very inconsistent in light output. The SB800 is a real piece of work.

I don't have them, but Abees are "daylight" balanced 5600K. So both "shade" and "flash" settings are not accurate. Make sure there is no other lightsource affecting the exposure such as bright tungsten lights, etc.

I believe I read on dpreviews that the default sharpness setting for the D200 is too soft for most people, and it recommended to bump it up via menu. I don't own it (yet), but I do remember that since I thought was very important. You might want to try that as well as higher shutter speeds.

I don't understand all the fuzz about posting a link. That is the kind of work I do, it is all over the site, products, models, etc. So it was relevant to my post. Some people just need to grow up. I also meant the gap between 300 - 1000 is a big one, and i can't find anything more reasonable for 500-600. As I said, there is a Sigma 2.8F can't remember the specs, but I have nothing that would tell me it will do a better job than the 18-70 kit lens, besides giving me an extra stop. By the way, I do post processing in both capture and CS2, but I find the kit lens to be soft and very slow.

 

I recommend before you go off at someone, you check out profiles and history. I have been around for a long time now, and never had an issue before. Oh, and also, not all of us were born in The Hamptons and can justify spending thousands on every single camera toy out there. Some of us have to work with a budget, and get the best tools possible with such limitations. Thanks to those who provided a useful recommendation.

Hi everyone. I know I will sound like a despearte man, but boy, I am

in a very tight budget. I have learned to hate the D70 kit lens,

after experiencing the wonders of the 80-200mm AFD, and the 50mm 1.8.

I need a zoom lens I can quickly zoom in and out, but I can't afford

1500 on a lens, as I am planning on getting the D200 as a 2006 Xmas

gift for myself. Can you recommend a replacement for the kit lens. I

reviewed the Sigma 2.8 (forgot the specs), but I am sure some of you

have gone through the same situation, and would love to benefit from

your experience. As I learn more and more, I am getting pickier and

pickier with my camera gear, and the kit lens has become a truly turn

off as I find the images way too soft. If you can send some advice my

way, it will be truly appreciated. I shot mostly models and a prime

lens is not an option as I need the flexibility of a zoom

lens.<br><br>

 

Best wishes. <a href="http://www.juelz.com">Dave</a>

Those are excellent responses. I really appreciate it. I promise I will read the manual again, hopefully this time it will make more sense. Just one last question, so you only do the white card when you are shooting with no flash right? I assume, since it wouldn't make sense if I use the tungsten filter, I would be setting my my WB to auto or tungsten. I find this so interesting and how the human eye (brain) has an auto WB as explained in that article. Amazing... I just bought the Lighsphere II and will try it this weekend with the Tungsten filter on the SB800. Do light meter also meter color? I am planning on investing on an alienbees set with softboxes.

Thanks for the responses. I am indeed mixing tungsten (I guess) and flash. I shoot raw and leave auto WB, however, I have a hard time post processing as the photos tend to look bluish. I will try the tungsten filter on and set the WB to tungsten. Here is where my confusion comes, if I do that, can I use the grey card method then? WHen you say "gray card" does it mean any white card or piece of paper or is this something that I need to purchase?

I am having a lot of issues trying to get the right white balance

with D70, SB800, indoors and night. I would like to learn how to do a

grey card white balance, but I have no idea 1. how it is done 2.

worse, what it means.

 

I have learned a lot on this forums, I hope you guys can point me in

the right direction. I know the D70 has a section on it, but I don't

really understand the whole concept.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Dave

I know I saw somewhere some basic instructions on how to setup both flashes. Nikon documentation is not too good on this. Is there a manual or something somewhere? And, based on your answer, I do assume that the SB800 as Master does contribute to the exposure and not just triggers the SB600.

Hi everyone, long time no post since I got a warning for using the

Internet at work for non-business related matters. Ouch...

 

Anyway, I have a dilemma. Equipment D70, SB800, and just purchased

SB600. I want to use the SB800 on a bracket with SC29, and SB600 as

fill light on a tripod. I don't want to use the SB800 as commander,

I want it to contribute to the exposure. What settings and how do I

make them should I perform on my flashes? I can't find instructions

on how to do this. I apologize if this was asked before, but I

couldn't find the answer. Again, I know how to set the SB800 as

commander via its menu, but no idea how do I set it to let it

contribute to the exposure + SB600 as fill light (soon another one)

I would appreciate if you can point me in the right direction.

 

Happy Holidays.

I just wanted to follow up on this since I did try this already. Once I plugged in the SB28 via PC cord, I notice the iTTL settings on the SB800, which was mounted on the camera using a strobo frame and sc-29, were not accurate. For example, ISO on the flash showed as 100, which was impossible. So I didn't even try it. I tried with the camera on A priority and even on P mode, but no luck. So, I switched to manual mode, first time for me. I think it is time for me to get at least an SB600. I was very impressed that even in manual mode, the SB800 knew my camera's ISO and A setting. I used the 80-200mm AF-D. Even though I did get good results, by shooting in manual, I do wonder why I could not get the flash to sync with the camera in iTTL or iTTLBL (wasn't even an option). I did "rebooted" the camera and the flash to see if they would read each other, but no luck. It was fun though, when I wanted more light I shot at f5.6 / 250, when I wanted less light (white shirts, etc) I shot at f8 / 250. I was glad I have been reading this forum every day now for about a year and a half.

 

Thanks.

Would it make sense to dial down the power on the SB800 to accomodate for the SB28 light contribution?

Sounds really good. So what you mean is that I can use iTTL on SB800, still shoot in A Priority, and reduce the power on SB28 just to fill shadows? Do I have to set anything up in the SB800 so it sends the signal though the PC Cord or will it doit automatically? This sounds good to me since I know the full body reflector is going to eat up a lot of light.

By the way I have the SC-29 which I use to hook the SB800 in the stroboframe...

(Cam D70)I must have read somewhere that you can use SB800 on camera

as master and then link to an SB28 using a cord. I can't find that

post anywhere. I have to shoots some jeans and stuff and a cute model

at an improvised location. I have to come up with a solution for an

improvised background drop (will a bed sheet work), and some way to

improve lights since I don't have anything other than SB800. A friend

of mine would lend me an SB-28. But can I use this combination while

keeping iTTL? I would keep SB800 in strobo frame and SB-28 on a

tripod as a fill light, with a full sized reflector on the other

side. I can't afford buying an SB600 now, although I am tempted to

over pay at bestbuy and return it the next day. She will wear jeans,

shirts, etc and will be standing up. I also thought I could setup the

improvised backdrop in front of a window so the sun light works as a

backlight? What kind of cable would I need? I have no experience

whatsoever with studio lights, but know enough to recognize I will

need more light than the SB800 by itself.

 

I hope you guys can help. I should've order a backdrop from ebay a

long time ago.

I just got Photoshop CS and would like to do all my post processing

using PSCS2. Do you have have a link, book, or reference on how I can

workflow my raw files (D70) with it. I have Nikon Capture but I

rather use the pro stuff. For example, when I first open a raw file,

a popup window with an image preview shows up in photoshop. It has a

few checked "auto" options. I have no idea if by leaving the auto

options checked I would be open the file exactly how I took it with

the camera. It is hard to tell. Also, I am struggling with my monitor

calibration (LCD). Is there an utility other than adobe gamma that

would do a better work (easier)? Any tips, tools for CS2 and Nikon

interaction?

 

Thanks for your advice.

Get the 50mm 1.8f @ 100.00 USD. You will be impressed by the quality of that lens. Do a search about it and you will be convinced.

I have the same lens, love it. I was thinking about buying a teleconverter, but I am not sure it will retain AF capabilities since this is not an AF-S? It would be a great solution to make it an "almost" 300mm. I am awaiting for your advise as well. Great lens Mihut, I love mine.

I have a D70, but I am seriously considering selling Girlscout cookies to save for a D2X. Too bad all my ccards are maxed out. :-) I just remember I also want that high-definition camcorder from Sony at 2,000.

I used to have issues with green on my D70. I change the color settings from "vivid" to "normal" and the problem was gone. when I used vivid, green plants almost looked like gel.

That is good advise guys. I will try with both lenses. Sometimes I don't get to good results with the 50mm and flash. Maybe I won't even need flash. Hmmm...

I meant I don't have any portrait filters.

I am doing an outdoor portrait of a friend of mine with her 9 year

old daughter. I have a strategy in mind based on my limited resources

and I was wondering if you guys could give me some feedback/ideas so

I get it right.

 

Camera is D70. I am planning on having mom sit down on a chair and

have her daugher stand in front of her. I will find a shadow with a

green area as bg which will be blurred anyway (I think).

 

I have available the kit lens, 50mm f1.8, and 80-200mm f2.8. I am

planning on using this last one at 80mm on a tripod with the SB800

filling shadows TTL-BL, A Priority at 4 or 5.6. I would assume f2.8

is too tight for two people. I will also use a full body reflector

right on the left side of the subjects to have more light on one side

of the face and to diffuse some light.

 

I have the feeling that if I do A priority at 4 or 5.6 I will still

have fast shutter speed. I have never shot manual. I also understand

that to use available light, I need to shoot at shutter speeds of

1/15 or 1/30. However, since this is portrait work, how do I achieve

that? I don't have any portrait pictures, what can I do in PS 7 to

soften faces a bit?

 

How would you the pros would do this project if you had the same

tools I do?

 

Thanks in advance.

Can you help me find the reviews on which of this two is the best? I

already own the 1.8 and love it, but just trying to help out a friend

of mind make a decision.

 

Thanks... Dave

Unfortunately the VR lenses are not within my budget. But thanks so much for your advice. I have the AF-D version so lens and cam should work together pretty nicely.