anthony_velazquez

One other thing, on the FA, AMP(matrix) metering doesn't function in M (manual) metering, so make sure it's in any of the "auto" metering modes (P, A or S)

Maybe grab your F100, put it on center weighted metering, and change your custom setting # 2 to option "1", so its "Exposure value increments" are set at full stops instead of half stops or thirds of a stop.

 

Make sure Both cameras are set to the same ISO, then take readings of something in your house with the same lighting like a wall by a lamp, If they match, your FA is probably on center weighted. If your FA is giving a little more exposure time by about a full stop, then it's probably on AMP (matrix)

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/variations/f3p/index.htm

Hello Joe,

 

Is it possible you hit the autofocus area direction pad on the back and changed which area focuses away from the central focus area? Hit the autofocus area pad on the back while lookin through the viewfinder and make sure you have the center area selected, then lock the pad.

Are you just pressing the two buttons? Try holding them down together. If not, maybe try installing a new set of batteries.

Paulo,

 

Unless you really need the extra 2/3's of a stop, consider the 50mm f/1.8D. It's a very good lens and only costs about $100.00 new.

 

I own the 24mm f/2.8D and like it a lot, It's a little easier to handle than the 20mm and wider than the 28mm. The 24mm is also a great lens.

 

You can get a good used SB-28 or SB-80dx for a lot less than the $250.00 you mentioned.

 

Look at www.keh.com for used gear, very conservative ratings on used gear and they have a return policy.

 

Anthony

Nikkor AI and Nikkor AI-s lenses that are shorter than 135mm work exactly the same on the FA in ALL metering modes including Shutter Priority. AI-s Lenses that are 135mm and longer activate a "High Speed" program shift and that is the only difference. AI Lenses 135mm and longer still work in all metering modes including shutter priority minus the program shift which you can account for manually<div></div>

Wayne,

 

Actually my F100 plus Camera Companion or Softtalk 2000 plus mc-33 cord also allows me to retrieve shooting data as well as let me know which lens I used for each shot as long as the lens has a cpu chip. When using a zoom lens it even tells you what focal length your zoom was set on.

 

If your using the Softtalk program the same goes for the n90/n90s and F5. I'd be willing to bet the F6 does the same with either type lenses, AF(chipped) or MF(as long as you have the focal lenghth stored on the camera).

 

With that being said Im sure some film users use a notepad or mini-recorder to keep track of shooting info when needed.

Also, look here

http://n8008hq.tripod.com/main.html or here

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/htmls/models/htmls/slr88.htm

Sarah,

 

I believe you have to put the camera in Manual (M) exposure mode and then turn the command dial counter clockwise until its out of Bulb mode. That should be it. I have the manual in PDF, if you email me, I'll email it back to you. Avelazquez13@aolDOTcom

David,

 

Email me at avelazquez13@aolDOTcom.... I'll send it to you.

 

Anthony

Hi Ben,

 

You have to leave the lenses aperture set to f/22 and lock it there. You must change the aperture via the main or sub command dials, which I believe you can set to either or dial through custom settings on the D70. The other dial will be for shutter speed. Do you have the d70 manual?

 

Anthony

Indranil,

 

I have both and believe they are both better than the manual as they both explain all camera functions and settings, like the manual, but with added information that explains why you would want to use certain functions and or settings. With that said, IMHO, Thom's e-book is a cut above the Magic Lantern guide. Thom also includes a laminated custom settings card and 3 useful Excel workbooks, F100 Depth of Field, F100 Flash, and F100 Macro.

 

The F100 Depth of Field workbook lets you calculate depth of field and hyperfocal distance information for any lens (and for any aperture and focus distance), in either feet or meters. The F100 Flash workbook has a number of handy calculators. (ok, some of this description came from Thom's book) If you want a hard copy of the guide itself, it can be printed and binded at any Staples or Kinko's type stores as Thom gives permission to do so. Hope this helps, and good luck!

Dave,

 

Nikonians.com has such a chart. It's in the guide section and it's in PDF format too. Heres the link, have fun! http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/guides/ebooks/nikonians-battery-guide.html

Farrah,

 

I have the manuals for both these cameras in PDF form. If you like I can e-mail them to you and you can use them to compare. Should you want me to send them, e-mail me at avelazquez13ATaolDOTcom and I'll send them off. I have both cameras and both have certain advantages. A lot of people will give you their preference, but you should consider which camera fits your needs. The N80 has built in gridlines, speedlight(only useful for fill flash or family snapshots)and on body flash compensation which can also be used for shoe mounted speedlights that dont have flash compensation options on them. The F100 is built to last, meters with manual focus lenses(AI, AI-s), focuses much faster and has faster frames per second(FPS) which makes it much more suitable for fast action/sports. Obviously both cameras have other useful functions, I only listed a few as an example. Only you can truly decide which is best suited to your needs and price range. Hope this helps, let me know if you want the manuals.

Anthony

Harvey,

 

I am very fond of street shooting and I can tell you that I love to mount my Nikkor 45mm on my F100 and N80, to tell you the truth, I use it on my FM2n and FA as well, depending on which mood strikes me. I love this lens because on top of great images and bokeh, it's so very compact and can be added to any small lens kit without even noticing the weight of it or the space it takes. Once you use it for a bit, it feels pretty much the same on any body, the only difference is when you mount it on an AF body, you set the lens to its minimum aperture(F.22) and control the aperture via the command dial.

 

Now, I bought the black version because IMHO, the silver 45 only looks right on Manual Focus chrome bodies. The black one looks pleasing on all of them including Black AF bodies. I haven'toticed any softness on my sample, even wide open I get great results. Good luck and no matter what you decide, have fun.

 

Anthony

Pete,

 

Photo Tech is a very good repair service, I have used them a few times. When you go there, they will take your lens(or camera) for an estimate. They tell you to call them in 2 or 3 days for the estimate and when you call, they tell you what the repair will be and how much. You have the option of repairing it, and the estimate is free, or you can take it back at that point and pay around $8.00 for the estimate. Now, with all that said, I also had a 50mm AIS with oil on the aperture blades, my 50mm is a 1.4 but I am pretty sure it would be the same price. I paid $75.00 to have the oil removed and they also check the whole lens and repair it to factory standards with a limited warranty. I don't know if it's worth it for a 50mm 1.8 considering you can walk into B&H and get a brand new gray market version of your lens for $119.95. Unless I was buying a new one, I would probably just repair it instead of buying a another used one, who knows what problems may occur with it. Anyway, hope this all helps. Good luck.

 

Anthony