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Nikon will just remap it under warranty. My d200 had a couple early in its life and they remapped them - problem solved.

Yes. One of my favourites. Although it does have trouble @ 1.4 in high contrast situations.

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Perhaps the "tester" should have used 4 Sigmas and 4 Canons aswell, then a comparison of sample variation could be made.

Hi Per,

I dont know which type of kroner you are doing your sums in but I purchased a mint 500cm (manufactured 1989) with an 80mm CF planar, WLF, tripod adapter, metering knob and two A12 backs (matching inserts) for 6500 Danish kroner about 12 months ago. I also think you can do better. Check http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/ for free downloadable manuals and serial number dating.

Thank You Walter and Hannu. I have written an email to Nikon Germany and am awaiting their reply.

I have a Nikkor 135mm f/2 Ais that needs a helicoid regrease. I have received a

quote for it here in Denmark and it is ridiculously expensive. (approx. 335

euros). I was contemplating posting it somewhere else in Europe for a service,

perhaps Germany or the UK. Does anyone have any suggestions of a reputable

reasonably priced camera repairer that may be able to help?

Project finished. Thanks for the assistance. First couple of shots out of the beast. <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=669092">110B + Fuji 100C</a>

OMG. What a pile of cr*p.

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A little bit of further information. The aperture ring is described as being 'tight'. This may support the theory of heat damage.

The seller has apparently had a quote from Nikon to replace the rear element (about US$200). It may be beyond cleaning.

Take the 'blad. I recently travelled in the Philippines with a 500cm, wlf, 80mm and a meter knob all packed into a Lowepro toploading bag designed for a 35mm camera. A great point and shoot without compromising image quality.

 

A couple of shots from that trip.

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=598171

Thanks Michael,

It is internal, possibly the coating itself. The lens is a 35 1.4 on that auction site. I think I might keep away from it. Thanks.

I have attached a picture of a nikon lens with some damage to the rear element.

Can someone tell me is this separation? Is this repairable? Will it require a

complete new element? From images taken with the lens it looks like the result

is reduced contrast and increased flare. Is it even worth bothering with?<div></div>

Sorry if I didnt explain myself clearly enough. The Graflock back has been mounted on/in the back door of the camera. I have cut an appropriately sized hole in the back door with the graflock back centred over the lens. The graflock back is actually resting on the left side against the remainder of the camera's back door. The result is that the graflock back will be about 36mm further back from the original film plane. Does it really make any difference whether it is 25mm or 36mm or greater?

 

And thank you for the links and description for collimating the lens.

I am in the process of converting a 110B to 4 x5. I have attached a graflock

back to the rear door of the camera. The graflock back is positioned up against

the rear door of the camera (on the left side atleast)ie. it cannot be moved

any closer to the lens. In this position it is approximately 36mm further back

from the original film plane.

 

As I understand it, I should then reposition and fix the front standard 36mm

further back for the modified camera to focus properly.

 

I have read in previous posts on this subject that the film plane should be

moved back by approximately one inch (25mm).

 

My question. Is 36mm too far?

I had one briefly - but switched to Hasselblad 500cm. The stripped- down battery-free 'blad siuted me more. I found I didnt need a motor winder or the associated NOISE when I took a shot. The very fact that Hasselblad has add-ons was a positive in my experience. Now its a metering knob a WLF and always ready to shoot.