martinlambert

Thank-you to all who contributed feedback. I have indeed lashed out on a famed Canon EOS, but not the 700. Just bought a S/H EOS 3000 from a reputable dealer with a 35-80mm EF zoom. Everything on it works and it's backed by a 3 month warranty. Nice little camera, love the way the lens zips in and out when it autofocuses! Amazing! It has lots of other great "doodads" I'm gonna have fun with too!

Actually no it doesn't, it winds the film all the way out, and then winds it in, frame by frame. If I wanted to shell out for a new 35mm film slr, I'd buy a Nikon F65. Just looking at this camera as a possible cheap alternative pathway into the world of automatic slrs, given my own camera is a Nikon FG20. Thanks for your advice though.

 

Martin

Hi,

 

I am looking to purchase a S/H Canon EOS 700 with a 35-80mm lens at

the apparent bargain basement price of $50 AUD. The owner tells me

however that the last time it was used, prints from the developed

film suggest the film is winding forward only half a frame at a time.

He has since purchased a digital and the Canon has been languishing

unused in the cupboard.

 

I understand that this camera actually rewinds/winds the film after

each shot, supposedly preventing the loss of undeveloped images in

the case of the film back accidentally opening, (except of course for

the current frame). Seems like a nifty idea, but I can see how all

that winding/rewinding could lead to a film with out of sync frames.

 

A web site I perused indicates this camera was only in production

from March 1990 to September 1990 and suggests that the reader draw

their own conclusions from such a short production run. Current owner

thinks that the present problem may be due to a flat battery.

 

I would really appreciate feedback from photo.net patrons who have

any experience with this camera, both good and bad. A photo.net

search for any comments about this (classic camera?) have produced no

results.

 

Thanks

Martin

Rob and Dominic, thanks for the info, it?s very useful to know that the meter will handle an extended range of exposure times. The ?trick? then is anticipate when an auto exposure time is likely to extended beyond the reciprocity limit of the film being used, and in those situations manually expose with an appropriate reciprocity adjustment.

 

However I understand that my favourite film (Kodak EliteChrome 100) is extremely hardy in that regard and could undergo a reasonably long exposure (up to 100 secs according to Kodak documentation) before compensation is necessary. Of course I assume this is in daylight, twighlight/night shots may well be different. And I imagine there is colour shift to think about also.

 

Thanks again,

Martin

Hello,

 

After a significant absence from photography, I was recently re-

acquainting myself with my trusty FG-20. I noticed while

experimenting with twighlight photography, that when set on auto, the

camera shutter (correctly?) opened and closed over a number of

seconds. Yet when reading the manual later at home, I discovered that

in auto-mode, the camera will only expose within the range 1 second

to 1/1000 of a second. I haven't developed the film yet so I'm not

sure whether the exposures for these photos appear reasonable. But I

am curious as to the method used by the meter to determine the

exposure time under these conditions (whether it was correct or not).

 

I also remember reading undocumented tip that the FG-20 is capable of

two fully manual shutter speeds when sans battery, 1/90 sec and when

set on any other manual shutter setting apart from M90, 1/1000 sec.

Is this correct?

 

Thanks for the assistance.

 

Martin