jorge_prat

<p>I use a Bronica RF645 for street photography. Fantastic camera. Very light weight, easy operation, automatic controls, shutter lenses, and smaller than the Mamiya 7. If you don't mind its native vertical orientation, and the limited lens options (only 2), I recomend this camera for street photo without a doubt. And is cheaper than the Mamiya 7. And the lenses are very sharp.<br>

Regards</p>

<p>Thanks guys for your contributions. At the end as some one said, the weakest part in the chain is the scanner quality from flat bed scanners. I really hope something new comes to market at a reasonable price. Maybe the Reflecta is the answer. <br>

I usually work in personal projects for exhibit purposes, so print quality is an issue for me as well as the cost of scanning. I'm far from been famous and I don't usually sell my prints, but the experience of going into a solo exhibition is so rewarding, that as long as I keep cost controlled, I'll keep working with that goal. And I think this is a fair point. Many of us don't intend to keep our images in hard drives, for a casual review every now and then. We look for a good balance between display quality (the scanner chain) and cost. Dslr don't make us life easy...</p>

<p>Thanks anyway<br>

Jorge</p>

<p>Hi there. I don't intend to set up a controversy here. Is just that I love medium format and I have shot 120 for more than 10 years, after going digital. But I could not live withouth medium format, so I bought recently a brand new Bronica RF645 that I love. But the thing is, if you don't go the darkroom route, and intend to scan all your film, and of course you can't afford a Nikon or better scanner, is it worth shooting medium format? What I'm saying here is that one of the main reasons using medium format is it's quality, but if you can't print it's inherent quality , don't you feel a little frustrated? What do you think?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance<br>

Jorge</p>

 

Dean:

 

Im converting a 110A to 4x5. Im not planing on a 110A+900 conversion. I know the 900 viewfinder is better in many respects, so is the 110B, but rigt now I cannot afford another model. With this in mind, is there anything I should keep in mind? or the conversion is pretty much the same as the 110B (I know I have less room to fit the 4x5 adapter, because of the more centered viewfinders)?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Jorge

Jon:

 

First of all, please excuse my poor english. I have visit Torres del Paine twice, since I live in Chile. Both trips have been for photographic purpose. I have shoot medium format only there. You will encounter some heavy wind actually, and probably your camera bellows will look like a sailing boat. However, if you use a very heavy tripod, and a metal view camera, like a Toyo or Linhof, you could make it. But distances in the park are extremely large. You must trek large distances, and with heavy equipment it can be a real challenge.

 

So, my recomendations are:

 

- Do a previows selection of the places you want to photographs, avoiding places that demand large hikings, unless they are cover by horse rental (yes you can rent horses).

- wind should be a problem in open places. If you go to the many "Lord of the Rings" style forest, you will be fine.

- There are some routes you can also cover by car.

- Try to sleep in cabins or hotels inside the park, so you don?t have to carry tents, food, etc.

 

If you wan?t more info, I can contact you with a local photographer who has been there many times.

 

regards

 

Jorge

Hi there. I?m about to print a handmade book in a small press that uses digital

offset (HP Indigo). My photographs are B&W fiber base prints. So I actually

scanned them, with a professional flatbed scanner (scitex). The scans where made

in CMYK color space, since they must be printed in color (no duotone options).

My question is: should I make any color correction in PS, in order to avoid any

color shift toward, for example, blue or brown. I want the images to be print as

neutral as possible. Which corrections should I apply in PS?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Jorge

M6 TTL .85 and 35 mm lens. When I bought the camera i was a heavy glass user, and i couldnt get to see the hole image in the viewfinder. This was the perfect excuse for something I was at that moment afraid of: laser surgery. So i went trough laser surgery and my life changed, all because of the .85 viewfinder. Seen in perspective, Leica changed my life.

And the .85 is a dream with 35mm lens.You just seem more involved with the image you are framing, like you where in the middle of the scene. I love that.

cheer

Jorge

Thanks to all. Tomorrow I will have the chance to try it with a 6003 body. Lets hope is fine.

 

Regards

 

Jorge

I was planing to get a 6000 series Rollei, but a really mint Rollei PQ 150 Tele-Xenar lens

came before, so now I have the lens but not the camera. Looking inside the lens, I notice the

shutter blades are close. Is this normal? should they be open in stead? Whe I was a

Hasselblad user, the shutter blades always had to be open, specialy when removing the lens.

 

thanks in advance

 

Jorge

"Lensboard on Shen-Hao: Centered hole or not? Does it matter?" If you need a Copal 1, it will matter, belive me. You´ll have problems moving the diafrag selector. In fact, you will have to remove the lens to move it. Now I have a brand new Nikon lensboard in my basement, or for sale.

 

Sorry for answering so late this tread, I just saw it today.

 

good luck and hope it´s not to late.

Jerald: What about the new TMAX? Those development times don´t apply anymore, do they? Has John Sexton publish somewhere his new development times?

 

Jorge

Here is my testimony: I live in a small and far country named Chile. I´m probably one of the few photographers here that photograph the landscape in large format and B&W. The rest of the native landscape photographers here are the classic Art Wolf type. I don't make a living out of photography, but since there is'nt much here to show in large format, I have had lots of success showing my work at art galleries. I have even won some local fellowships. I´m not saying that my work is only good because of being shot in large format, but people here are not very use to see this kind of photography.

I'm kind of luck here I guess.

 

regards,

 

Jorge

I don't care. Agfa probably never understood the niche concept. Ilford,Efke and Bergger do have (even kodak), and that´s why whe love them. A company that does'nt build long term relationships with there customers can't succeed. It´s all about service, not the product itself.

Thank you guys for all your help. I think the biggest problem with this model is that there is no image of it abailable anywhere. Ries web site is nice but not very much ilustrative. You actually have to imagine how the tripod may look like. Is like buying blind, especially in my case, since I can only buy using internet.

 

Jorge

Has someone used the Ries C600 tripod for 4x5 field camera. This

tripod is much cheaper than the J100, but i don´t know if I can use

it with my wooden field 4x5, since it only supports 14lbs. Maybe it

is the streaped down version of the J100.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Jorge

John: Don't get the Nikon board if you want to use a copal 1 lens. The hole is drilled at the bottom and the shutter will interact with bottom lens support of the Shen Hao. Believe me. Get a lensboard with the hole drilled at the center.

 

Jorge Prat

Just one small issue: Don´t buy the Nikon brand lens board in copal 1. The hole is rather low, and the f stop indicator in your lens will touch the lens board bottom holders.

Thank's for all your answers. I'm using f8 apertures, so it's not a too much stop down problem. I live Chile where we have 220 voltage. The enlarger is made for this voltage. When I bought the enlarger, it came without the lamp, so I cheeked Saunder's web site to figure out the lamp output. Accordingly I purchased a 250w/84v. Maybe this can be the problem. The lamp has 84v. Do I need a differente voltage lamp for my country?

I just move up from a condenser enlarger to a nice second hand LPL

4572 enlarger (same as Saunders 4500 series). Well, the problem is

that I'm geting crazy with the enlarging times: I can easily spend 12

minutes exposing an 11 x 14 print! and that's just for the basic

exposure. That can't be normal. The lamp is ok (250w), and everything

seams to work fine. What is the problem? I know my negatives are

little dense for this kind of light, but not for 12 minutes exposure.

Please help me!

 

Thanks in advance

 

Jorge Prat

Hi there. Has anyone experience adapting a view camera as an enlarger?

I´m thinking in adapt my old Linhof Technika, using an Aristo cold

light head and my Kaiser copy stand.

 

Thanks

 

Jorge

Has any one had any experience with the new Shen Hao Monocular reflex

viewfinder?

 

Thanks

 

Jorge Prat

Does any one know the development time for the new Tmax100 film with rotary-tube processing, for N-1, N and N+1, and D76 1:1? The Kodak Technical Publication does´nt mention this new adjusments for D76 1:1 with rotary drums. I had a hard time searching for Mr. Sexton´s developing times for the old TMax, and now that I finally found it, this film is discontinued and we must make adjusment for the new one.

 

<p>

 

Thanks in advance,

 

<p>

 

Jorge Prat

Hi there. Would like to know any experiences with motorized

Hasselblads, especially with the ELM. Are they trouble free machines?

Can I trust them the same I trust my manual 503cx?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jorge Prat