vick_vickery

Thanks, Y'all...I'm just starting to look at these and this helps a lot.

I know that several companies make digital backs for the V-series Hasselblad cameras. Which ones do not have to be attached to a computer while being used?

<p>My most used reflector thru the years has been a white poster board either held by someone else, proped against a handy rest or taped to an extra tripod or lightstand. Simple and costs just a few cents.</p>

<p>With your budget you are probably going to be pretty much limited to "hot lights"; considering that you say that you are new to photography, this is not really a bad thing. Fixed lights that are on all the time have the advantage of being easier for a beginner to use in that you can easily see exactly what the lights are doing, where and how deep the shadows are, etc.</p>

<p>You will need to use high-wattage photoflood bulbs (300 watts to 500 watts) to get enough light to work with, and, if you shoot mostly color, you will want blue bulbs since they approximate the color temperature of daylight film. Note that they call these "hot lights" for a reason...they heat up a room very quickly.</p>

<p>I often use such equipment for lighting still-life setups, but, due to the heat involved, I got multi-bulb adapters from a local lighting company and use multiple daylight flourescent bulbs instead of photoflood bulbs. I use three bulbs in each large Smith-Victor reflector and find that it gives me plenty of light.</p>

<p>A basic setup would consist of three reflectors on light stands; this will provide you with enough light for most portrait or still-life work and still be in your price range.</p>

<p>I would certainly be interested, but I think that it would be marketable only if it was very competitive in price and quality to existing dslr's; if it was much cheaper, it might find a market even if the quality was lower.</p>

<p>I use 6x6, 6x7, and 6x9 at various times; the 6x7 is popular because it proportionally the same as 4x5 or 8x10; the 6x9 gives you a little more width or height when you need it and want to avoid cropping quite so much; the 6x6 just works for some shots; the 6x12 is a panoramic layout which would sometimes be handy, though I don't have a holder in that size. I'm actually most fond of the 6x9 simply because I do architectural work and often can use a little more width. Get them all and use what works! :)</p>

<p>My luck with KEH bargain items has been very good, but others report having less luck. One good thing about KEH is that they have a very good return policy if you're dissatisfied with what they send you.</p>

<p>I heard somebody knocked the server over and smashed it! They said they'd be back as soon as they can get a new one up and running. Hope thats soon!</p>

<p>I'd suggest that you seriously consider a 4x5 with a roll film back. Easier to find a suitable model camera and probably cheaper to boot. 120 backs are easy to find new and you have the option of using sheet film in the future.</p>

<p>You might want to disassemble your back and clean it of any dirt/grime that may be holding the film holder off of the surface of the back.</p>

<p>My guess would be that you didn't have the holder seated firmly on the first shot. When I insert a holder, I "wiggle" it into place until I'm sure it it well seated and flat on the base of the film plane.</p>

<p>Errrr...never used a Rollie SL35, but on several of my other 35mm's when the advance lever stops in mid-wind, it means you've reached the end of the roll; on these, when you push the rewind button you can then finish the stroke before you rewind the film. Just a thought.</p>

<p>I don't shoot Cannons, but if I remember right, to equate 35mm focal length you multiply the lens length by a factor of 1.6. This would make the 50mm the equivalent of an 80mm on a 35mm camera...a very nice length for shooting portraits. If the 40d happens to be one of the full-sized sensor cameras, ignore my comments.</p>

<p>In Nikon equipment, I have a 28mm, a 35mm to 105mm zoom, and a 35mm PC lens (that I got from you in trade, Harry) and use all in my architectrual photography, though I do use the 35mm PC lens most; in my Minolta equipment, I use a 20mm, a 28mm, and a 35mm about equally, though I use longer lenses a good deal for architectural details.</p>

<p>Your camera description sounds like one of the older Calumet 400-series cameras. These did NOT have Graflock backs, so limit your search to the slide-in pack backs for either 4x5 or 3x4 pack films.</p>

<p>Polarizer and color-balance or CC filters are often used, especially on interiors; I find I often need to alter the light temperature on interior shots...sometimes it gets tricky with mixed light sources; do the best you can and add correction after scanning into the computer if needed.</p>

<p>Just to clarify models, the Yashica Mat has NO meter...the Yashica Mat LM is the older model with a meter, and the Yashica Mat 124 is the newer model with a meter. Hope she enjoys her new toy! :-)</p>

<p>According to the little chart in my home-made data book:<br>

90mm = 27mm<br>

105mm = 31mm<br>

120mm = 36mm<br>

125mm = 37mm</p>

<p>Never heard of one.</p>

<p>You'll get a lot quicker at focusing with practice! I've never felt handicapped by not having autofocus on any of my many film cameras (still own and use several 35mm's, 6x6's, 4x5's, and a few other odd ones); in fact, my most used portrait lens for my Olympus DSLR it an old Nikon 50mm lens meant for a 35mm...at 2X equivalent, it acts like a 100mm on a 35mm camera, so its a great length for portraits. And, by the way, you can't beat those Zeiss lenses on the 'blad...I love mine!</p>

<p>I'd check the closed sales on eBay...as best I remember, though I've paid only passing attention to them, the Seagull's don't bring a great deal, making them a better user than an item to finance a new digital lens!</p>

<p>For the black backgrounds, try a large square of black satin set well back of the flower so little light will hit it.</p>

<p>They all have a place in your bag! The waist level finders (open and stovetop) are great for seated portraits, street candids, etc., while the 45* and 90* prisms let you get the camera higher when you need to without climbing on a chair. I have all three in my bag and use all pretty often. Finders have gotten so inexpensive on eBay and other outlets that it not cost-prohibative to have all of them any more!</p>

<p>OK, think I got 'em sorted out now:</p>

<p>1. Unknown French Quarter street<br>

2. Unknown French Quarter street<br>

3. St. Louis Cathedral, across from the west side of Jackson Square; was part of Chartres Street when open to traffic. <br>

4. Pirates' Ally on the south side of Jackson Square<br>

5. Decatur Street, north of Jackson Square, taken from the sidewalk by the French Market...the trees in the distance are Jackson Square and Tujaque's Restaurant is a famous New Orleans spot.<br>

6, NE corner of Jackson Square across from Cafe Du Monde coffee house; was St. Ann Street when it was open to traffic.<br>

7. Unknown French Quarter Street<br>

8. Unknown French Quarter Street<br>

9. Grassy edge of levy on east side of Decatur Street across from the east side of Jackson Square.</p>

<p>Hope this helps put them in perspective for you. As was previously mentioned, the French Quarter got little damage compared to many other areas of New Orleans and is back in full swing.</p>

<p>Interesting idea! :-) I'd crop off the same amount on each side, leaving the butterfly whole; I'd not crop any from the top or bottom. I think it will look pretty good once its on the wall.</p>