dimartino

I heard rumblings of this for awhile now and decided a year ago to join the Ilford fold and leave the "other" once popular supplier behind. It's nice to know that my darkroom will still have use for time to come.

Never mind the questioned, I just found out for myself!

Try not to get too hung up on the pixel issue. Fuji's goal is to get closer to the tonal range you have with film. I know pixel nuts out there have argued the numbers issue to no end, but the bottom line is your picture quality. The only option most other dslr users have to produce an image of the same quality is to do the HDR process in photoshop. You have it straight off of the camera!

Then the S3 is the camera for you. One feature that will be good for you is the F1 mode. It is supposed to be the optimum settings for natural skin tones for portraiture. Another advantage is the dynamic range of the sensor. It gives you much greater latitude with your exposure without blowing highlights when your shot is metered properly. Most other dslr's can't even compare including my D70s. There are a lot of sample shots that show this on the net. keep in mind that when you view images on the net; just about everything looks good at usual monitor resolutions. The real difference will truly show itself on prints. The only downside to the camera is the write speed. It's not the kind of camera you would want to use for rapid fire continuous shooting.

It depends on what you are going to use it for. I own both and one is better in some situations than the other and visa versa. I do prefer the S3 for most situations for its picture quality. However, the D70s is more compatible with my SB-800 for other then casual flash photography. There are other aspects to compare, but it really comes down to what you plan to use it for. What are your specific needs?

I am currently using PS to apply filter effects to digital images. I am asking from the once hardcore only film point of view. It has taken me along time to get into digital because of my previous film only point of view. If this is a camera that will respond the same way in B&W mode with conventional B&W film filtering; it would be like going back to your roots. I still shoot film as I still believe it is a more superior medium than digital. The feature would just be an interesting way to bridge mediums in technique that isn't so "techie". Forcing one to be more of a "photographer" than a pc effects editor!

I recently obtained an S3 and going through the settings with the manual, I

discovered black & white mode. With this setting, is it possible to get the same

results using the conventional filters for black & white as you would when

shooting with black & white film (the old fashion way)? Or is the sensor not

designed that way.

I have always had good luck with the 24-120 vr. It's a good all around lens and it has a descent focal range for just about everything. I keep a few extras with me in a fanny pack, but rarely use them.

Capture One from Phase One supports what you are looking for.

Nope, but I just got an S3 for $500 from a friend who got his S5 today ;D

I run the gamut from 35mm to 4x5 and including digital Nikon equipment. The camera that comes out of the bag the most is the ETRSi. I have 3 of them and the combination I use the most is the AEIII view finder, 40mm lens (nice for landscapes) and a 135w back. Like youself, the expense of film and processing is a consideration, but I do it as much as I can afford to. So, how much I can shoot is My only consideration. For ease of cost, I process my own B&W and I have an HP Scanjet 4890 which will give descent results for all of the formats I shoot.<p>The justification is not in how much I can afford to use it. It is in what I can produce with it. I only go through about 30-40 sheets a year with my 4x5, but how little I use it does not dictate whether I should sell it or not.<p>The Nikon digital is nice, but it becomes somewhat demeaning spending so much time in front of Photoshop trying to makes a digital image look like what I can do with film.<p>Maybe you need to re evaluate what your photography, in general, is worth to you. Just a thought.

Okay, this is not very technical and may be frowned upon, but I use my D70s as a meter. It gives me multiple metering options and an image to compare with. The other advantage is that I don't have to carry a notebook around to record my settings because it's all in the exif data. When I did use an incident meter, I would hold the meter 90 degrees from the sun there by getting kind of an average reading from the sun side and the opposite. Good luck!

I have used both systems and the differences are more a matter of features then image quality. You would be hard pressed to tell the difference seeing 2 images side by side of the same seen. I have opted to stay with the Bronica system as there are more features available for my interests. For example, I have been spending alot of time shooting velvia 135 on an ETRSi using a wide back and a wide angle lens for some great panos. For the Bronica ETR line, the better of the lens types are the PE lenses. They are a bit more contrasty then the MC and EII lenses. Good Luck!

It is obvious that digital is now the dominant force in photography and I don't see medium format film making a come back. If your average pro photographer can spend much less on a 35mm based dslr and produce a sellable product, then why would they spend money on film? Not to mention medium format based digital. Hassie, Phase one and Mamiya ZD amoung others may soon be on the verge of extiction if they can't make a more economic competitor to the Canon's and Nikon's that can produce a 20x24 portrait of a family who doesn't know the difference in tonality and just wants something to hang over the mantle. The pro-sumer market is all locked up with soccer mom's buying up D50's and Rebel xt's which make the higher end market even that much more removed. Medium format film like large format will only be left to the advanced ametures and the artists.

Scott, I do exactly what you are thinking of doing. I use a Nikon F4s for 35mm and sometimes my D70s and as a reference meter reading to use on my 4x5. I shoot landscapes with high aperatures so the only thing I need any kind of conversion chart for is EV across ISO. I may not neccessarily have the same ISO film loaded in each camera so cross referencing to match up meter measurement is all you need to think about. If you are using the same ISO film in each you are home free.

I don't use anthing like what you have there so I can be of no help in that regard. I am interested in seeing the results you describe. Would it be possible for you to post something?

PS. Don't forget to remove the darkslide ;>)

You can't cock the camera because your filmback has no film in it. To the right of the film advance lever there is a smaller lever. Push it forward to reveal the read dot and depress the shutter release on the front... Recock away!

I appreciate you response and suggestion on the spotmeter. I will have to look into one. As far as the weight is concerned, I am a young guy yet and the RB is one of my lighter setups. Another 2 pounds is not a factor, besides, it gets mounted on a tripod anyway. In addition to using the Gossen incident/reflective meter I have now, I will pull out a Nikon F4s for sample metering as I do when shooting LF. If the RB had a meter, I would have that convience as well as a self contained system with just the camera.

I'm in the market for a metered prism finder for my RB67. I have seen

PD prisms used for around 300 US. It offers averaged and spot metering

as opposed to the CDS prism which is only center weighted and runs

about half as much. Has anyone used the PD and is it worth spending

twice as much for it? I shoot mostly landscapes and currently use my

Gossen Luna Pro digi F handheld for metering. I sometimes find myself

in situations where the lighting in my imediate area with the canera

is not the same as the scene I am shooting. If I'm shooting around the

shore or a swamp area it is not exactly practical to walk around and

meter the scene with my current method.

This rig was given to you?!?! How lucky is that...I recently bought one and love it. It is definitely a different kind of animal compared to your D70. Because of the satisfaction I get with using a view camera, I have reconsidered my pursuit for a digital. As previously mentioned, this type of camera is not for everybody, but do some research and check out some examples in LF galleries. Keep in mind that what you see on a monitor of a LF image scanned "well" is only about a quater of its' actual quality. Good luck with it.

A 1980's Rock Star<div></div>

I have been to this site. They farthest it goes back for spot meters is the 1/21. Mine is a little earlier than this. Thanks for your reply just the same.

I recently purchased a Honeywell Pentax 3/21 spot meter. I have

searched around and have found no information on how to use it. Is

there anyone who can help? Also, The larger 22.5 volt battery matters;

however, I noticed that there is no difference in how the needle

reacts wether the 2 smaller batteries are in it or not and they are

good, I checked. I tend to think that this means there is a problem.

Am I right about this?

 

Thanks in advance for replies.

I will be in Las Vegas for halloween and would like to try shooting

city scapes at night right on the strip. The tripod is a given, but

what would be a good place to start on the film type and exposure

settings? This will be a first for me. I will be using a Nikon F4s

and figure matrix metering and (I'm thinkin) aperature priority so I

can control dof and let the shutter speed fall where it may. Is

there an "ideal" film type? Any recommendations/suggestions?