stevea

Here's the BH URL for the filter I would use for a 77mm sized lens.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?shs=77mm+b%2BW+mrc&ci=0&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=RootPage.jsp&A=search&Q=*&bhs=t

 

In case the link doesn't work, here's the description:

77mm UV Haze 010 (MRC) Multi-Resistant Coating Glass Filter

 

Steve Abramson

How about different colored rubber bands around the lens body? I use rubber bands to remove the circular polarizers from the lens and keep a rubber band on the body of the lens while I'm using the polarizer so it is handy when I need to remove the filter. The rubber band never interferes with the opration of the lens if you place it properly out of the way of critical lens rings and buttons.

 

Steve Abramson

If you are on a budget, the 70-300 VR is a good value. It produces sharp contrasty images, probably comparable to the 18-70.

 

However, for the discerning eye, and where only the best will do, you have to go up a notch (a big jump in price). The 70-200 f2.8 vr is the top of the line zoom lens and the prime lenses (with about equal quality) I'd look at in your stated range are the 85mm f1.4, 105mm f2.5, 200mm f2, 300 f2.8 VR.

 

Steve Abramson

I have the 17-55, 70-200 and the 18-200. The first two are pro lenses, tack sharp and very fast. When the very best is required and in low light, I use the pro lenses.

 

The 18-200 is less sharp, but produces very good results as a travel/walking around lens. The convenience of the 18-200 makes lens changing non-existent and the lens is light enough to carry all day without strain.

 

The 18-200 does not work well with TCs, so it is not expandable. I use the 70-200 with the TC14EII and the TC2-EII to good advantage, although the latter TC requires excellent long lens technique to get good results. I use it this way primarily for birding. For travel, when a longer lens is needed, I go to the 70-300 VR, which is a bargain at under $500 for a surprisingly sharp lens.

I use it for children. The cloud version is so soft, it doesn't bother their eyes. It is a bit bulky on camera, but the results are worth the extra effort involved. Very smooth natural looking light - you can barely tell a flash was used.

If you get the Nikon, you won't need to buy another. Buying the best saves time wondering "what if". Time IS money.

 

Steve Abramson

Unless you're doing distance shooting, the 70-300 will be too long. On a field of view perspective, its like a 105-450mm lens. The VR version is better than the prior versions and is very sharp optically. The VR is very effective. For example I am able to shoot at 300mm with a handheld shutter speed of 1/50 sec. At $479 in B&H it's one of the best bargains - if you need this range.

 

I'd look at the 18-70 kit lens if I were you - simply because it is a more usual range for walking around.

 

Steve Abramson

If you have a lens made with a lot of plastic, expect that a little misuse will result in breakage. The pro lenses are made of heavy duty materials that can withstand daily banging around. Having said this, I have a number of plastic lense for several years and no problems. This tells me that proper use doesn't break these lenses. Mishandling, whether intentional or by accident, does. As they say in the Boy Scouts - Be Prepared.

 

Steve Abramson

I will cast my vote for the 70-200mm f2.8 VR. It is very fast focussing (AFS gives it an advantage over the AF of the 80-200) and ideal for for medium distance sports. The tc 14eii works very well with it, giving you a 280mm FOV.

 

The 70-300 VR is a very good lens, producing very sharp pictures, but simply not fast enough for sports if the light is at all questionable. Ditto for the 80-400 - although I don't have it, my friend does and although he gets very sharp pictures with it, they are all of stationary subjects.

 

The 18-200 suffers from the same problems as the 70-300.

 

I'm not too familiar with the 300 f4, but the 300 f2.8 vr is a good longer lens for sports.

 

Steve Abramson

River Edge, NJ and Lake Worth, FL

Nancy:

 

So far as birds are concerned, I have to disagree with you. In the Florida wildlife refuges, most photographers with big glass use flash with extenders such as Better Beemer. The light doesn't frighten the birds because you are not that close. It is also very useful when taking pictures in shady areas such as a nest under the canopy of a tree.

 

Steve Abramson

Let me try. Focus is not achieved by pressing the AF/AE lock button. It simply remebers your focus and/or exposure setting at the point you pressed it. If you move the camera away from the point at which you focussed the focus dot will disappear, because the focus is still locked at the point which you locked it. The AF-ON and/ the shutter half depressed are the only buttons which set the focus. When these are pressed and the camera achieves focus, only then will you see the focus dot.

 

Steve Abramson

In CS2, when you Print with preview the screen comes up with your picture centered on the print page. Therefore, if you crop the picture to the size of the canvas and print on 8 x 10 paper, you'll have a centered print.

 

Steve Abramson

I had the MB 200 on my D200 all the time when I first got it. Now it sits on the shelf. Three issues for me: 1. It makes the camera bigger and heavier than the D2x. If I want that much size and weight, I use the D2x. 2. It is not very stable on a tripod, no matter how hard you tighten the holding screw. 3. IMHO the weather sealing is suspect, given the unstable connection to the battery.

 

In bad climate, I would be very leary of putting the MB 200 on my camera.

 

Setting adjustments are a personal thing. I use the defaults or the settings suggested by Thom Hogan in his ebook. They are not so important to me as I shoot RAW. About the only setting I find useful is the contrast as shooting with lower contrast allows you to bring out the details in the shadow areas a little more than with the normal contrast setting. As situations demand, I make changes. I found Hogan's book to be invaluable.

 

Steve Abramson

All the usual suspects have been listed. The 85mm f1.4 is my favorite, with the Sigma 30mm f1.4 a close second.

 

Let me tell you a little story. I was at my granddaughter's bowling party a few days ago and had my f1.4s with me. When the shut off the lights for "moonlight bowling" I could not focus any of my lenses. I whipped out my Sony Camcorder with its "night shot" mode on and it gave me beautifully exposed stills and video clips. No external light was used.

 

Steve Abramson

Take a look at the Think Tank Holster bags. They have several sizes. One can hold what you want. I have the 40 model and it is perfect for the D2x with the 70-200 VR attached. It can be worn on a belt or over the shoulder.

 

Steve Abramson

A small point and shoot camera is good for "grab" shots on the run.

 

Leaving a camera in the car is a good idea if you are in a place that doesn't have hot weather. If it's 90 degrees outside, it is possible to have the temperature in the vehicle go up to 150 degrees.

 

Better yet, take your main camera with you for a while. If you seem to be getting a lot more good shots, keep doing it.

 

A back up camera is really not necessary unless you have more than one lens you want to use in a given shooting situation or you are a pro where you must deliver the pictures, guaranteed. I use two for birding. One has the long lens and one has a shorter lens. I switch constantly.

 

Steve Abramson

Salim:

 

If you think that switching to Canon gear will solve your problem, you're sadly mistaken. They have similar problems to Nikon with similar quality performance.

 

Get the dealer to give you a complete new kit. With the high percentage quality of Nikon, you should have no further trouble. Having purchased 100's of Nikon items over the years with only one ortwo minor problems, I can attest to Nikon's high quality. Most of the time I have a problem, I find it's due to my lack of understanding, rather than Nikon's fault.

 

Steven Abramson

Certainly in your pocketbook.

 

The 85mm f1.4 will produce highest quality output. The f1.8 output will look to be the same to the unpractised eye.

 

That, along with the extra speed and DOF flexibility of the F1.4, plus the tank-like build set it apart.

I use a TC 20 EII with my 70-200 f2.8 VR. It requires a tripod and good technique to get a decent shot. The TC 14 EII is much more forgiving.

 

I wound up getting the 200-400 f4 VR after struggling with the TC 20 EII for about a year. It's like the difference between night and day - and $5,000+ later.

 

Steve Abramson

Take a look at the Newton DI100FR2 Flash Rotator Bracket. It is more compact, built like a tank and works well if you have medium to large hands. It's also a bit pricey, but you get what you pay for.

 

Steve Abramson.

I wound up getting the Heliopan ES 72mm UV, based on advice from the seller.

 

Steve Abramson

There is a simple solution to the blocking of RAW. You can remove the file from theplugin folder.

 

NX gives a much better rendering right out of the camera than Camera RAW in PS CS2. However, the conrols available in CS2 are superior to those in NX. I sometimes use NX to render some NEF file I'm not able to get to my lin=king using on CS2. I'm still learning NX, so I may find other uses for it in the future.

 

PS CS3 beta has some very powerful RAW commands, which, to my mind make it better than NX. I have the new version on order. Hopefully, I'll have it next week.

 

Steve Abramson

I started with the D2x and later got the D200 as my first two Digital SLRs. Although the learning curve is long, the cameras are worth it. Lenses like the 17-55 f2.8DX fit best with these cameras.

 

The D40(X) with the 17-55 f2.8DX is like putting a Rolls Royce engine in a Volkswagon.

 

Steve Abramson

In no particular order: 85mm f1.4 (f1.8 not shabby either)

17-55mm f2.8 DX

70-200mm f2.8 VR

200-400mm f4 VR

12-24mm f4

35-70mm f2.8

28-70mm f2.8

17-35mm f2.8

 

I'll stop here. You get the idea. Nikon has a large selection of amazing lenses. That's why people want Nikon.

 

Steve Abramson