gary_wong2

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<p>The non-beer signs look like those in a Johnny Rocket but this looks very much like a bar instead of a diner.</p>

<p>Google 'Manfrotto Architectural plate'.<br>

There is a metal lip that rests against the bottom edge of the camera that is closest to you (not the edge toward the lens). This keeps the camera from rotating. Just make sure this edge is straight or the plate will be unstable.</p>

 

<p>My Manfrotto 190 aluminum tripod is about 8 years old and the lower leg sections have been slightly more difficult to fully extend by itself by gravity. Many times I have to manually extend the legs to the full length. However, I suspected the problem was a very slightly bent leg segment just due to wear and tear. Maybe it isn't. Could you please post your solution to your problem?</p>

<p>It's been a eight months since I upgraded from a 30D to the 60D. While I am unfamiliar with the features in the T1i, I can tell you the features I like in the 60D.<br>

The articulating screen. This is the biggest feature that I really like. Since most of my 'artistic' photography is landscape, this feature makes it a lot easier on my back and knees when I want to place the camera less than two feet from the ground. BTW, while using the Live View feature, the time to focus is really slow (1-2 sec). For faster focusing, change the AF Mode in the Menu from 'Live Mode' to 'Quick Mode'.<br>

The Quick Control screen. This gives a quick view of all the main shooting settings on the screen and the ability to change any of them quickly without having to use the menu.<br>

<br />Puppy Face: there is a setting that makes the 'Set' button a dedicated button to change the Flash Exposure Compensation. In the Menu, go to the Custom Function Settings. Select C.Fn IV:Operation/Others. Set the 2nd option to 4 which will assign the 'Set' button to a Flash Exp. Comp. button. (pg 258 in the manual).</p>

<p>There was small piece of land about 300 miles from my home that belonged to a client. We would make an overnight trip every year or so to get an update from the caretaker. On a previous visit, I saw a one inch hairy fuzzy looking fungus in the shape of a ball growing on the top of one of the round wood fence poles bordering the next farm. It looked very picturesque sitting on the fence pole and I took a picture but didn’t have the right light and wanted to return another day which I knew could be at least a year. I could ‘see’ the shot! Shallow DOF, good bokeh and even morning light!<br>

There was a very old abandoned wooden house on the property which had to be removed. The local fire department needed to perform a training drill and setting the old house on fire was perfect for their training purposes. Almost a year later we drove up the previous night to watch the training which was to be done early the next morning. So I got up early the next morning and went out to the wooden fence pole. To my delight the fungus was still there! This is a small town so the news of the training was known to the community. While I was setting up my tripod and camera, I noticed the next door ranch owner was sitting in his truck apparently waiting to see the fire department in action. He walked over to me and was asking for the time that fire department would actually start the training. While he was standing there, he saw the fungus on the pole. Before I could say anything and with one swift motion, he crushed the fungus with palm of his hand and brushed it off the fence pole! The sight of actually seeing it being crushed BEFORE I could take a shot was just absolutely shocking! All that anticipation over the year, coming from afar, having good light and getting within a foot of the fungus resulted in nothing! One more minute and I would have had at least one photo!</p>

<p>After several months of deliberating, I recently upgraded from a Canon 30D to a 60D.<br>

While I understand the 60D is made with more plastic, I have noticed that the mirror/shutter sound on the 60D is not the same on the 30D. The best description I can give for the 60D sound is ‘flimsy and hollow’ while the 30D has a more ‘traditional’ sound.<br>

Is my description a normal sound for the 60D?<br>

What do other 60D owners think about their mirror/shutter sound?</p>

<p>A Christmas tree on fire is an impressive sight. It is amazing how it becomes fully engulfed in under five seconds. The size, intensity and the heat of the fire is incredible and the there are a lot of flying embers rising up from the tree. My neighbor burns his tree in his back yard every year. The tree is there and I am expecting him to light it any night soon. He always seems to pick a windy day. You would think that as a firefighter he would know better.</p>

For landscape photography I use my 3001BPRO. For traveling in cities like Boston and cities in Europe the Manfrotto 714SHB has been great. It fits inside my backpack. It is small (around 15.5 inches folded with the QR adapter added onto it). It is very sturdy and it is light. I don?t know the exact weight, but it can?t be more than two pounds. I can check if you wish. It has a small built-in ?ball-head? that is adjusted by the knob at the bottom of the center column.

The 714SHB is actually out of production and the replacement model is a 715SHB. The 715SHB model has a built-in QR but it only holds up 2.2 lbs while the 714SHB can handle over 5lbs. Right now you can search eBay and see that someone is selling a 714SHB. Look at the specs listed with the auction and look at the ball-head in the photo.

I have used it with a 30D and 28-135mm IS lens.

I have been looking for this too.

My recommendation is also to go with the 488. There will be times when the camera is in the vertical position and you need to pan to the left or right. Without the panning feature, you will have to move (rotate) the whole tripod. This is a huge inconvenience, especially when you are on a slope. You will have to re-adjust the height of the legs. The panning feature on the 488 will allow you to rotate the head and there is no need to adjust the legs.

In a nutshell, 'NO'. Some sellers are good and some can be bad. Very bad.

 

BE VERY, VERY CAUTIOUS!

 

Try looking for the seller at http://www.resellerratings.com/

 

Review the ratings then decide if it is worth the risk.

 

Again, BE VERY, VERY CAUTIOUS.

Yes, the focal lengths are the same between lenses. The purpose of mentioning focal length being equal was merely to make the comparison between the digital and regular lenses 'equal'. I am sure that if did not mention it someone would have mentioned something about the focal length. Anyway, you guys are very techically adept. Much more than I will ever be. I was just looking for a 'yes', 'no' or basic answer to the question.

 

Let's rephrase the question to make it clearer. If the focal lengths are set at 50mm on a digital and a regular (non-digital) lens, a digital lens will project a cropped image when compared to the image projected by a regular lens. Is this true?

After reading all these posts, is this a true statement?

If the focal lengths are the same, a digital lens will project a cropped (not reduced) image when compared to the image projected by a regular (non-digital) lens.

 

If this is true, does this apply to all lens manufacturers, Canon, Sigma, Tamron?.?

Thanks for the responses.

 

I was about to exchange the 30D kit in order to change the 18-55mm lens that is bad. Then while playing with the lens I realized that the front portion of the 18-55mm lens rotates whenever it focuses. Because polarizers and GND are a large part of my photography, having the front of the lens moving when focusing is a huge drawback.

 

So I broke down and ordered the 30D body only and the 17-40mm lens. It's PBJ sandwiches for lunch for the next two months. :-)

For almost a week I have been eagerly waiting for my Canon 30D with the kit EF-

S 18-55mm lens to arrive. Now, I am wondering if I should keep the EF-S 18-

55mm lens.

 

Right out of the box the zoom function on the lens did not feel good. Yes, it

is a cheap lens and it does not have the silky smoothness while rotating the

focal ring. That was expected. What I did not expect was a metallic click

while rotating the zoom ring. Imagine that you are rotating a rewound film

canister by hand. As the film goes by the opening in the canister, you feel

the film slipping over the opening and there is a click. This is the same type

of feeling and the click has a metallic sound.

 

Since I cannot purchase my preferred wide angle lens (EF 17-40mm f/4) at this

time and I need a wide angle lens, I am inclined to exchange the kit to get a

new EF-S 18-55mm.

 

However, I am wondering what are other photographers experiencing with this

lens. Do you have similar problems as mine? Are you happy with the lens? In

hindsight, would you purchase a different lens than the EF-S 18-55mm?

My suggestion is to buy a LED headlamp. This option allows you to work with both hands and the light always shines in the same direction you are facing. It's great for the hiking in the dark to and from your shooting spots. I got one and thought to myself 'Why didn't I get one of these years ago!'

 

There are many different different brands with different features and options. It will take a bit of research. The 'must have' feature that I highly recommend is the band that goes over the top of the head. This makes it much more comfortable to wear. If you don't have this feature, you have to tighten the band around your head fairly so the headlamp will not slip off your forehead. I had one without this feature. After two minutes of wearing it, my head always felt like it was in a vise. Headaches soon followed.

A graduated neutral density filter has a dark area (which holds back light) at one side of the filter and a clear side (which holds back no light). The middle area of the filter is a transition area where it gradually goes from dark to light. This filter is generally used to hold back light from the sky without reducing the light in the foreground.

 

A reverse graduated neutral density filter also has a dark area but it is in the middle of the filter. There are two transition areas, one going to each side of the filter. This filter is generally used to hold back light on a very bright horizon without reducing the light in the sky and foreground.

It's been a while since I have been to Ding Darling or the Anhinga Trail(pre-hurricanes) so I really do not know the conditions at either location. Since you are going to be in Venice and trying to choose between the Anhinga Trail or Ding Darling, consider the difference in distance that you have to travel. The Anhinga Trail is located south of Florida City. The total additional distance is about 200 miles which is about 7 hours round trip. In order to get good light you would want to be there in the morning or evening. So consider staying overninght for it to be even worthwhile.

Paul,

 

I do not know if this is the same camera. The one he has is around 30 years old. Does Linhof still sell the same model these days?

 

It's incredible that these cameras are so expensive! When my wife's uncle told me about the camera, I took a wild guess that it would be worth under $1000 with the lens included. I did not ask him the value of the camera. It may be very well be worth that because the camera is old and I don't know it's condition although I suspect it should be in fairly good condition.

Actually, I am hoping that the camera is in excellent condition but worth less than $1000. If it were very expensive I would feel very bad about accepting it. Plus, if it needs to be repaired, expensive cameras may lead to expensive repairs.

There was a choice of placing this post in this forum or in the Large

Format Photgraphy forum. This seemed to be the best choice but let me

know otherwise.

 

My wife has an uncle that wants to give me his Linhof camera because

he knows that I love photography and would appreciate the camera more

that anyone else that he knows. He lives out of the county and visits

infrequently, so it may be a while before I see this camera. Never

the less, this has gotten me very exited because this is a new format

to me.

 

Firstly, I know only 35mm film photography and practically nothing

about medium or large format photography. This is what he told me

about the camera:

� It�s a Linhof 2x3

� It�s a medium format

� It has adjustable bellows

� It is heavy and has a metal case

� It has roll backs

� It�s about 30 years old

 

The internet for has given me some information. But now I am confused

now and have many questions. So I am hoping that I can get some

information in this forum.

 

With the little knowledge I have, I have not been able to determine

the model number. Using the above information, can anyone determine

the camera model?

 

Is this a medium or large format camera? Some websites say 2x3 is a

large format but he said it was a medium format camera.

 

What is the film size for this camera? It seems that it is called 2x3

but is actually 2 � x 3 � . I tried to find the film of that size but

cannot find it.

Converting 2 � inches to metric is 5.72cm. Does the camera use 120

film and uses only 5.72cm of the 6cm?

 

Thanks for your help.

Maybe Nikon support can help you.

Try the 'Contact US' page at http://www.nikonusa.com/

 

I also have a Nikon 5400. The firmware upgrade interests me because I would like the RAW option. So I am very interested in knowing if you found a solution just in case I have trouble too.

 

Please let us know how the problem was resolved.

 

Thanks

Sounds like a great way to spend a Saturday.

Is there an admission fee?

Hi,

 

Today, the oldest dated post on the nature forum is Dec 26, 2005.

That is only 10 days ago. Is there a way to view the posts created

before this date?

While I do not have a suggestion about which tripod to purchase, you may want to give some consideration as to the speed and ease of using the tripod. In my case, speed and ease of use are just as important as sturdiness. The family is gets impatient while waiting for me to set up for those timer shots on vacation. At other times I need to move quickly from one spot to another, especially at sunrise/sunset when the light moves very quickly.

 

IMO, the lever type locks are much faster and easier to set up or adjust than the twist type locks. And I can tell if the leg is locked down just by looking at the lever. There are instances where the screw attaching the lever to the tripod loosens causing the tension to be low enough that it does not hold the leg securely. I have never had this happen to me but I think do not think that this happens instantly and your camera goes crashing to the ground. You would be able to tell that the lever lock is starting to loosen because the tension you feel when you lock it down will start to feel less than normal. There is a tool that comes with the tripod that will re-tighten the lever lock.

 

While testing tripods with the twist locks, it took me a long time to setup the tripod even though it was on level ground in the store. I also found that I was always unsure if the legs were secure and always had to put pressure on the legs by pressing down or pulling the legs to make sure that they were securely locked.

 

Tripods with the wingnut-type locks were not a consideration because it?s quicker to lock down a lever that to twist a wingnut.

 

Good luck in choosing your tripod.