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roger mitchell

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Posts posted by roger mitchell

  1. <p>Howard, <br>

    Thanks. The only reason that I want to start from scratch is to rid my computer of any excess printer-related trash so there is no way it can interfere with proper color managed printing from CS3 and LR2. That may have been a contributing factor to my previous difficulty with my 2200 when I upgraded to Leopard and LR2. As for backup, I appreciate that advice. Hopefully my constant OS-X Leopard Time Machine backups will prevent any potential disaster. </p>

  2. <p>In frustration from not being able to get my venerable Epson 2200 to correctly print in my Intel Core2Duo iMac, Leopard 10.5.6, Lightroom 2.3 system I gave up and bought an Epson R2880. The 2200 printed fine in Tiger 10.4 and LR1, BTW. I want to install the new printer as though there had never been a printer connected to this computer before. I want to strip every printer driver, every paper profile, and all other printer-associated, printer-related files off my iMac, ie. to start from absolute scratch for the new printer. Please provide exact directions (eg complete file paths) for removing <i>everything</i> printer-related. I’m computer literate but not sufficiently savvy as so many of you are. Also, is it best to use the printer driver from the Epson new product CD enclosed with the R2880 or download the driver from the Epson website ? Thanks</p>
  3. With Tiger and LR1, prints were spot on and matched my Eye One calibrated iMac. After upgrading to Leopard (OS X 10.5.6), Lightroom 2.3,

    and Epson print driver 3.09, all prints using LR2 or PS CS3 (10.0.1) are way off in color (very muddy). Looks like double color management.

    I’ve researched this and can’t find any solution or workaround that fixes this mess. Is this just lack of support for an older Epson printer, is

    there a real fix, or am I looking at buying an Epson R2880 (which I really can’t afford right now) ? Thanks

  4. Rico: The Nikon Forum is probably not the best place to get answers to a Lensbaby

    question. Cancel your order for the LB 2.0 and buy the 3G instead. I have both and only

    use the 3G. Assuming you're using a DSLR, with the 3G you can lock the amount of "bend"

    you have selected, take your shot, check histogram and "blinkies", and reshoot the same

    shot if exposure wasn't quite right. Can't do that with LB orig or LB 2.0. The sought after

    Lensbaby effect is best seen at f/2 - f/4 with my overall favorite being f/2.8. Practice,

    practice, practice until you get a good feel for where the sweet spot is on your LB - it

    takes a while to learn this. Probably most important, most people tend to way overbend at

    first. Gentle bending produces the nicest effect IMHO. Lastly, I took Kathleen Clemons's

    Lensbaby course online at Perfect picture and it helped me, immensely. Good luck.

  5. Ronald has described it well - just call Customer Service, have your serial number available,

    and tell them what you want to do. There are a few relatively simple hoops, as Ronald

    described. I crossed from PC to Mac, CS to CS3, last May with no problem other than it took ridiculously long for my new software to arrive even though I paid for 2-day delivery (which

    they refunded because it took about a week). I'm very happy with my iMac and with CS3.

  6. I have both an original LB and the 3G which I use on my D200. I really didn't like the

    original because you can't go back and get the exact same image composition if you

    didn't get the exposure correct. With the 3G you can because you can lock in the focus,

    composition, etc. I think people tend to over bend when they first try a LB whereas gentle

    bending tends to yield nicer images IMHO. I just finished an online course on Lensbabies

    at PPSOP with Kathleen Clemons and it was excellent, really opening my eyes to the

    possibilities. A LB really can add a new look to images once you get the feel for what it

    can do. I'm not as skilled a photographer as many here at photo.net but I have attached

    an example photo taken with a LB 3G on my D200.<div>00NkG6-40514584.jpg.f04e241a41878a215be61cb0df14b1ef.jpg</div>

  7. After 25+ years on PC's, I left the dark side about 2 months ago and got an iMac 24"

    2.33ghz. It's great. As for CS3, I called Adobe and upgraded from CS, at the regular

    upgrade price, and got the Mac version of CS3. You will have to send them a letter saying

    you'll destroy the old, PC version before they'll ship the mac version. CS3 runs very nicely on

    my iMac. Hope this helps.

  8. Some days it doesn't pay to get out of bed ! Through my own stupidity, my D200 with Lester Dine/Kiron

    105mm f/2.8 fell ot of my camera bag, hit the ground, and the lens broke off at the F-mount leaving the

    bayonet mount on the camera (I've since removed it). D200 is OK but lens needs repair of the F-mount.

    APS in Chigao won't fix it (Nikon only). Can anyone recommend a honest, reliable repair facility to fix my

    Lester Dine/Kiron lens ? I'm on the west coast but I'll send in anywhere in the US. Thanks

  9. I went by the tulip fields this morning and the Bloom Map that Gary shows as a link is accurate. I'd guess that most fields will be in prime bloom in another week or so.<div>00KcQ9-35851184.jpg.62508ec5c463769bf3c2d9f06eac604e.jpg</div>
  10. I live just a few minutes away from the tulip fields. It's been several days since I went by and the daffodils were in great profusion but essentially no tulips were out. I'm planning to check the fields tomorrow (Tue, 4th) and I'll try to remember to report back on this same thread.
  11. I have taken a workshop with Vincent and I have his Oz book. This is NOT a Photoshop how-to or touch-up book; it's very different. Vincent will be the first to tell you to get it right in the camera and plan ahead what you want the final image to be. He wants you to have a vision of what the final image is going to be before you ever trip the shutter and then "harvest" all the images needed to blend in PS to produce your image. His techniques are not quick and dirty - they take time and planning. A CD comes with the book containing the images so you can practice what he's shown. Many of his images combine 5 - 10 separate photos; I've seen one that had about 45 ! He'll tell you that Photoshop is not a verb, it's a noun; it's a means to an end. He's a master and a perfectionist. If you like his work (www.versacephotography.com) and are willing to take time crafting images, you'll like his book.
  12. Mt. Ranier is great, as is the Olympic Peninsula. See the orcas ("killer whales") on a whale watching cruise out of Anacortes or Bellingham. Mt. Baker is a great choice and probably less crowded that Rainier and Olympic. As Arthur said, it is not a NP, it is, however, a National Forest (Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest) and sits in the Northern Cascades.
  13. Al: Perhaps I'm a bit confused by your question. I have the Nikon R1 kit. The adapters are just rings that allow the user to put the system on different lenses according to the particular len's filter ring size. I don't know why it would matter what company built the lens. For example, the 52mm adapter fits both my micro Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 and my Lester Dine 105mm f/2.8; the 77mm fits my Nikkor 24-120 VR, etc. The R1 comes with 5 such adapter rings with diameters of 52mm, 62mm, 67mm, 72mm, and 77mm. I hope this helps.
  14. I have both the Nikon 105mm f/2.8 (the previous, non-VR version) and the Lester Dine/Kiron 105mm f/2.8. I used them on my D70 and now on my D200. I have no experience with any of the others you mention. Both are excellent. If I was forced to keep only one it would be the Lester Dine as it seems to be just a bit sharper. I never use AF for macro and I always use a sturdy tripod (Gitzo 1325). Don't skimp, get the best lens you can afford and enjoy the macro world !
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