bill_stice1
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Posts posted by bill_stice1
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<p>"1st Nikon TILT and shift lens is the 24mm f3.5D PC-E released in January 2008."</p>
<p>Actually the first Nikon TILT and shift lens was the 85PC Micro lens which was a predecessor to all of the Nikon PCE Lenses. It has both tilt and shift but doesn't have the electronic shutter and requires stop down metering. It was first manufactured in 2005. </p>
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<p>Avi, you must be using a bellows other than a Nikon PB4. The PB4 has both a geared bellows and a geared focusing rail. Both geared rails also have locking knobs. The PB4 is the only bellows Nikon made with tilt and shift on the front of the bellows. If yours doesn't have a geared focusing rail, tilt and shift then it isn't a PB4. It sounds like it might be one of the bellows Nikon made prior to the PB4.</p>
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<p>Mary, JDM is correct. This is Pokeweed. The scientific name is Phytolacca americana. It has an alkaloyd called phytolaccin which is toxic. It is a biennial and many people in the south eat the plant sprouts from the first year. It it the plant that the song "Poke Salad Annie" was written about. I am a botanist and have eaten it as a young man in Arkansas but I wouldn't recommend eating it unless you are certain that it is the first year's growth. This can be tricky so it is probably best not to eat it. Several plants have toxic parts while other parts of the same plant are not. I hope this helps.</p>
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<p>The 16 to 85 VR does come from Nikon with a hood included and it does make a difference. It is not as efficient at the longer focal lengths but some is better than none and it is easier to shade the lens with your hand at the longer focal lengths without interfering with the image. Lens hoods do make a real difference. I wouldn't use a lens without one.</p>
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<p>Bill, there are black bears, white tailed deer and wild turkey on the Cades Cove Loop Road. In addition you will fine Elk at the Cataloochee section. Some of them have tracking collars but many of the large bulls do not. The park service stopped putting collars on some of them several years ago. There will also be song birds at many locations. Be sure to follow the distance from wildlife rules published by the park. The rangers will readily write tickets to violators.</p>
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<p>David, at the same image size (magnification) and same aperture the depth of field is the same regardless of focal length. The 105 will give you more working distance as mentioned by the previous post and it will also give you a narrower field of view. This makes it easier to eliminate distracting backgrounds. Hope this helps.</p>
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<p>Arthur, glad to hear of your success. I've upgraded to new hardware and Windows 7. Everything went smooth until I tried to load Nikon Scan for my Coolscan 9000. I couldn't get it to see the scanner in any compatibility mode including running a virtual XP machine. The software would load but I'd get an error saying there was no scanner available. I finally uninstalled it and am using Vuescan instead which sees the scanner and works fine. I looked it up on Nikon USA's web site and the only thing there is that they are testing compatibility for Windows 7. I hope their test goes better than mine.</p>
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<p>Film Bodies<br>
Nikon FTN<br>
Nikon FE<br>
Nikon F4<br>
Two Nikon F5's<br>
Sinar F1 4 X 5<br>
Sinar F2 4 X 5</p>
<p>Digital<br>
Nikon D200<br>
Nikon D300</p>
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<p>Gerard, I don't mean to speak for Tim but I think what he meant was that with the longer lens you will get a narrower field of view not depth of field. At the same magnification and the same aperture all three lenses will have the same depth of field but the longer lens will give you a narrow field of view which can eliminate distracting things from the background. The flip side is that at the magnification you mentioned 1 to 1 or greater, you will need a lot more bellows extension on the longer focal length lenses than on the shorter ones to achieve the same reproduction size.</p>
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<p>Nick, I shoot 2 D300's after shooting F4's and F5's for years. I still have the 600 F4 AIS and get great shots with it on the D300. In really bright light the 600 F4 does have some chromatic aberations which need to be removed in Photoshop but the high ISO performance of the D300 is well worth the change. I still have two F5's and one F4 but they sit on the shelf now. I also shoot the D300's with a 300 F4 AFS lens and love it. I especially like the crop factor of the D300 when shooting either the 300 or 600. That additional reach and the higher ISO capability sold me.</p>
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<p>I actually have several including a camo one. I use them all the time. I store teleconverters, extension tubes, electronic releases, and a variety of other items including reading glasses so I can see my LCD screen on the cameras. I also carry collapsible reflectors and diffusers in the inside pockets for macro photography. I would find it difficult to do nature photography (my specialty) without one.</p>
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<p>David, it certainly could be atmospheric interference. I use a 600 F4 lens fairly often and atmospheric conditions can cause both loss of sharpness and distortion when shooting at long distances particularly in hot and hazy conditions. I no longer have the 50-300 but shot a lot of really great images with it.</p>
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<p>David, I shot this lens for almost fifteen years. The sample I had was as sharp at 300mm as it was at any other. It could be sample variation or it might be as described by Bjorn. I used mine for a lot of nature images including with a 1.4 converter. It worked superbly. I have attached an image of it at 300mm with an extension tube for focusing closer. Hope this helps.</p><div>
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<p>Richard, a good exercise in learning how to use tilt is to take a regular old flat ruler. Put it on a table. Set the camera up with lens untilted and at about a 45 degree angle to the ruler. Focus near the center of the ruler. Now tilt the lens and watch how the amount of ruler in focus changes. You will be surprised at how little tilt is needed.</p>
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<p>Mike, you might want to take a look at Adobe Lightroom. It is designed with image management in mind. I've used many products and it is the best I've found yet. I use keywords for locating my images and can find any image in a number of different contexts. It takes some effort to set it up but works well in my opinion.</p>
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<p>Arthur, the New River near Jefferson is definitely worth canoeing. Some great views from the river. Zaloos Canoes offers several trips on the New River. In addition you are very near the Blue Ridge Parkway and going either north or south on it offers some great vistas for photography of the Appalachian Mountains.</p>
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<p>Elyssia, the AF lenses require a camera body with a focusing motor built into the body. There is a mechanical connection (similar to a screwdriver end) in the body that connects to the focusing mechanism ( a mechanical only device) in the lens. The AFS lenses have a focusing motor built into the lens and require only a source of power (the lens contacts) to focus. I am not very familiar with the D60 but don't believe it contains the focusing motor in the body but only the electrical contacts which would allow it to work with only the AFS lenses.</p>
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<p>Just as the new computer you buy won't have the latest patches for the operating system neither will the new camera body you buy necessarily have the latest firmware updates. The camera might have been manufactured months before B&H got it. It may sit on a shelf in a warehouse or at Nikon for a time before it is shipped. The firmware updates are occurring all the time and neither Nikon nor any other manufacturer is going to open up a packaged camera and load new firmware after it is in the warehouse. A camera dealer won't do it either. It is really more a function of the cost of labor. The camera should be fine. </p>
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<p>It is definitely flare. Look at the ghost image in the top center of the problem photo.</p>
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<p>Patty, I've upgraded the firmware on both my D300's and on my D200 without any problems. Just do as was stated above and follow the instructions to the letter. I'm not sure what would happen if you had problems but it might require sending the body back to Nikon. It really isn't that difficult.</p>
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<p>Kuryan, there are great opportunities on both sides of the main road at Roan Mountain. The location is called Carver's gap and you can park right beside the road and photograph rhodendrons near the old fences or you can drive up the road to the Roan Mountain Gardens. There are several trails including the Appalachian Trail which goes over Roan Mountain and continues from there. It also goes the other direction from the Carver's gap parking area up toward Jane's Bald and Round Bald. Great opportunities to photograph Rhodendrons as well as flame azaleas the and some very nice views of the surrounding mountains as well. There are plenty of opportunities. I've hiked this section of the Appalachian Trail several times and it is very nice.</p>
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<p>I do a lot of macro photography with a 300 mm lens and extension tubes to allow the lens to focus closer than it does normally. It works quite well and gives great working distance. I also have macro lens but like the additional working distance the 300 gives.</p>
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<p>Justin, you can take excellent macro images with a variety of lenses. I use a 300 F4 lens with an extension tube regularly. I also have three macro lenses but have been known to take flower photos with a 600 mm lens with an extension tube as well. A good way to start is with a good two element close up accessory lens that screws in the filter threads on many lenses. This will allow a non macro lens to focus more closely than it does normally. In my experience good lighting and technique are more important than which lens you use.</p>
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<p>A company called Alien Skin sells software that mimics a large number of film emulsions including Velvia. They have a web site named the same as the company. The film emulation software is called Exposure 2. I've used three of their products including the Exposure 2 product and they work quite well.</p>
Nikon 50mm f/1.2 doesn't have electronic diaphragm right?
in Nikon
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