j_smith6

<p>There are a few ways. Depending on how big magnification you want you can choose between set of extension tubes, close-up lenses or a reversed lens in front of your 100mm macro (e.g. EF 50mm f/1.8 Mark II - cheap and light, pretty much perfect for such purposes). If you want something more tricky then you could use an old bellow and build an extender to lens' contacts.</p>

<p>Aghhh, thanks for clarifying Dan, I didn't read the question carefully.</p>

<p>Yes, I was saying about graduated ND filters, which obviously are not the point here. ND graduated filters and ND filters are two different things;)</p>

<p>You don't really need UV filters anymore (unless for lens protection) because filter in front of the sensor already has UV layer. Actually they decrease the quality, even the best ones (the intensity of damage to the picture depends on lighting, sometimes it's barely visible).</p>

<p>Best filters? Well, it's hard to say which ones are best, but "Lee" filters are certainly worth attention. If I were starting from scratch I'd certainly buy good circular polarizing filters, since they create the effect which cannot be produced using graphic software. If you don't want to buy cir-polar. filter for each lens you can buy one for the biggest diameter and then buy lens reductions, which in my opinion is the best option (unless there's a huge difference between diameters) since you can spend more money on something else.</p>

<p>Which neutral density filters should you buy? Well, the ones you need. It really depends where you take pictures, since in different parts of the world the EV value between e.g. foreground and background differs. If you're not in a hurry while taking pictures and if you have time to post-process them maybe it's better to invest in a good tripod and create HDR images, if done right the effect should be the same if not better.</p>

<p>AFAIK unfortunately you won't be able to use new Camera Raw (the one which works with 50D) since it's blocked in older versions. That's the way adobe tries to make you to upgrade. You could transform 50D's raw images to a more popular extension using canon's software (e.g. DPP and convert them to *.tiff or *.jpg).</p>

<p>There might be one more way around the problem. Adobe has it's own raw extension called *.dng (digital negative). The converter is free to download from here: http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=4620</p>

<p>What you need to do is download the converter, convert your canon *.cr2 files to *.dng and process them normally as raw files in photoshop.</p>

<p>Here is more information about "Digital Negative": http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=4620</p>

<p>I forgot about one more thing: you also need to change preferences in "(4)" to "Camera Raw 2.4 and later"</p>

<p>Dust is almost everywhere so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Even "L" prime lenses will have some dust inside after being used for couple months. The thing is that dust which is in your lens doesn't play a big role in image quality. As long as the amount of dust on particular lenses isn't enormous then you won't be even able to notice the difference. You could worry a little if there is quite a lot of dust somewhere near rear element, especially if you start to notice decrease in contrast. Also - be aware that the dust you look at is probably magnified by front lens so it looks a lot worse than it really is. In reality usually pieces of dust are so small that any difference in image quality is not noticeable (I think it's because of diffraction).</p>

<p>Once the problem starts to be visible on pictures you can have your lens cleaned - after you receive it back make sure it's still properly calibrated.</p>

<p>I always thought it's better to repair some minor things yourself instead of sending it to canon. It's obvious that you're going to do it a lot better sicnce it's your camera. So if you need to just change a part - order it and then all you need to do is to change a part (e.g. screen). If it's something more complicated then I'd show you're disappointed and I'd keep on insisting so that they repair it properly.</p>

<p>I was never disappointed with canon repair service - they are usually very helpful if you're nice to them ;) On the other hand - I always bring my equipment personally and explain EXACTLY but politely what I want them to do. Never had any problems.</p>

<p>wrong aperture (diffraction/short depth of field) / wrong shutter speed, lack of tripod (moved pictures) / IR filter (in front of the sensor) / dirty sensor (after cleaning it the wrong way) / dirty lens / back-front focus (lens/camera calibration) / soft focus filter / lack of computer sharpening / too much noise reducing details (high ISO, although in small magnification pictures sometimes seem sharper) / fungus / scratches on lens (lower contrast) / lack of lens hood (lower contrast) / poor quality protective filter / bad lens / damages anti-reflection lens coating / turned on IS while you have your camera on tripod / wind which moves flowers while you take pictures / low-contrast lighting, on cloudy day (pictures may seem "softer" even thought they really aren't) / in-camer noise reduction / digital zoom / pictures not using full resolution of camera's sensor (e.g. small JPG) /.</p>

<p>How deep? I'm not sure but I think that I don't go deeper than 8-10 meters. The most colorful fish swim near surface so probably camera which works up to 3 meters would be good enough. If the price difference isn't too big I'd prefer the one which can be used up to 10 meters.</p>

<p>I have one more question: the camera manual says they work up to 3 meters deep but how deep can you use them in reality?</p>

<p>Thanks for the link Rob.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I'm on vacation right now and would like to take some underwater pictures. I'd like to buy a digital compact camera which is already sealed so that I don't have to buy camera and underwater housing. I'm going to take picture only during the day so there's no need for flash. I'm going to use it during vacation only to take amateur pictures. The quality doesn't have to be amazing, just good enough to have a nice souvenir :)<br>

Thank you for your help.</p>

<p>You should take picture of a 18% gray card first and then set then set the custom white balance. If you use "RAW" files then it doesn't matter but it may save you some time later. Just make sure your monitor is properly calibrated.</p>

<p>The problem you have here is that there are several lighting sources and each has different white balance. Sometimes it looks nice but most of the time it doesn't (especially when there'e a blue/green color cast in the image). In this situation you need to spend some time in e.g. photoshop unless there are only 2 light sources (then you can put color filter on your flash).</p>

<p>Don't judge focus by looking at the image on the camera's LCD. Change type of pictures to "RAW" (big ones) and view them on your computer. If you still think they're not sharp make back/front focus test to check what's really going on (before doing so reset camera's microadjustment settings).</p>

<p>Focus test chart: <a href="http://focustestchart.com/focus20.pdf">http://focustestchart.com/focus20.pdf</a></p>

<p>Thank you all very much.</p>

<p>She decided that she's going to buy an amateur dSLR.</p>

<p>I'm probably going to propose something from canon/olympus (she has used olympus camera before and really liked it).</p>

<p>Hello,</p>

<p>A friend of my dad asked me to help her choosing a camera. The problem is I stopped tracking photography market about a year ago and I'm not very up to date with all the new dSLRs and advanced compact cameras.</p>

<p>All I know right now is that there are quite a lot new cameras (also from sony) and I need your help to choose the right one.</p>

<p>The person who wants to buy a camera is going to use it for landscapes and macro. She wants to make 20*30cm (about A4) size prints. The thing is she hasn't decided yet how much she wants to spend on equipment but she wants either advanced compact or amateur dSLR (to keep the costs low).</p>

<p>I'm a little bit worried about macro&landscapes combination. In that case if she bought SLR she would need two lenses (or converters which would work nice with landscape lens). By "landscape lens" I mean something wide (at least about 28mm on full frame).</p>

<p>I'm totally lost... last time I was helping someone choose camera was when EOS 400D was a really new camera and 450D wasn't available in stores yet.</p>

<p>Any help will be GREATLY appreciated ;) I really want her to buy the right equipment.</p>

<p>Yes, but when you use lens cleaning fluid you put it on a cloth first, not directly on a lens. If my lenses get really dirty I use ethanol on cloth but I'd never use any liquid nearby front element (especially oily one...). Taking apart 17-40 to get under front lens (unlike in some other lenses) is quite a lot of work, so Anders - don't use any liquids even if you're desperate.</p>

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<p>Maybe a small drop of liquid wrench to loosen things up a bit.</p>

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<p>Don't do that. Any liquid near front lens is not a good idea.</p>

<p>It may sound funny but try taking it off using the other hand.</p>

<p>I agree with Juergen. Bigger card = bigger risk. I used to use smaller cards (2 and 4 GB) but after I lost few important pictures while I had to change card I started using 12GB one. I know I should have changed the card while there was still about 50 pictures left but there was so much going on that I didn't... If you're taking one camera with you then I think you should use few smaller cards (e.g. 4 GB).</p>

<p>JDM, I know it's a pretty good lens but 5DII has such a nice sensor and resolution that you could get a lot better results with better lens. I forgot it's 70-300 not 75-300 but I was thinking about 70-300, thanks for pointing that out.<br /> I'm not saying it's a bad lens but using it on 5DII is a little bit like buying a really good car and then using so-so tires. But if OP is satisfied with this lens then it's all that matters. I'm just a little bit worried that he is unaware how important (and how much more important) is lens in comparison to camera.</p>

<p>You really use 5D II with 75-300...? Ouch.</p>

<p>I know it's a "nice" lens but I think 5DII deserves something better ;)</p>

<p>Anyway - if you don't want to buy extension tubes there's not much else you can do. Either buy a tele lens which focuses closer or extender (check the closest focusing distance with extender). Also - I'm not sure if extenders work with 75-300 IS lens so you should check it as well.<br>

<br /><br /></p>

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<p>The problem is when the 70-300mm zoom (and your 150 macro) focus to close distants, it does so by reducing its "real focal length" even you left the zoom setting at 300mm.</p>

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<p>Are you sure about that? 75-300 isn't inner focusing so it doesn't change its focal lenght. I don't know about macro lens though, there are lots of "150mm macro" lenses out there.</p>

<p>The closer to the subject you are the shallower depth of field will be. You need to use really small apertures like f/11-f/16 to achieve satisfactory depth of field.</p>

<p>If you have macro (1:1) lens there should be no problem with filling the frame with dragonfly.</p>

<p>If you want to use your 70-300 lens for close-up pictures you need to buy a set of extension tubes which will allow you coming closer to the subject. If you want to use it for macro pictures you will need something else, e.g. reversed 50mm lens.</p>

<p>If you're tight on budget it would be better if you bought used but better lens.</p>

<p>You can buy used canon 100-400 /5.6 L IS USM for about $1500-1600. That's a lot better option than buying new sigma you asked about.</p>

<p>Did you check the mirror?</p>

<p>Are there any files on memory card or all pictures are just 100% black? I think that your mirror may be broken. Take the lens off and take few pictures looking at the mirror. If it doesn't go all the way to the top it needs repairing.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

 

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<p>Why can people post in the correct forums? This belongs in the casual photo conversation.</p>

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<p>I don't know. Maybe you'll get more answers if you ask in "Site Feedback".</p>

<p>I've read the article on wikipedia and I have one more question. Some parts are conductive and the others aren't but how does a camera know that, if the film doesn't create a closed circuit? I'd like to know more about how the sensor works.</p>