david_watts
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Posts posted by david_watts
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If you get across to Adelaide, email me and we can arrange something. Barossa Valley?
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Tim, Leica lens hoods are normally held in place by a number of small, metal, spring-loaded tongues around the inside of the hood that slot into a groove around the lens barrel. They can be retracted by two small (normally chrome) buttons on the outside of the hood. It would be a pity to destroy that mechanism which is particularly well made - my only R hood was over 30 years old and felt as tight as my new M hoods. If the rectangular R hoods for the 35 and 28 lenses are like the equivalent M hoods, there is also likely to be a small metal or plastic tongue that mates into the lens to keep the hood in the correct alignment.
I can only suggest you take your lenses with you and try an R hood out at a camera shop.
Cheers,
David
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Stuart G, your Jul 17, 2007; 03:34 a.m - Hunter River Lancers?
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Alex, if you're going to develop B&W film, you might like to consider looking at special B&W inks. I'm using Lysonic Quad Black ink in a Canon i905 printer. Took the 6 colour cartridges out and replaced them with the 6 Quad Black cartridges which supply varying shades of black/grey. The old Canon produces excellent A4 size B&W prints even when a 35mm neg is cropped to about a third of the neg size and blown up to fill the A4 sheet. You will have to experiment with papers as each paper has a distinct colour cast, even when a sheet looks to be white. I am using Ilford Gallerie Classic Pearl which is almost neutral with a slight greenish tinge which is noticeable when placed beside a wet process print. I haven't tried Lyson's own paper as I haven't found a source of it in Oz yet.
If you're interested, email me and I will email you a full description of the process.
David
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Kenneth, if you have the newer chimney finder that has the LED display instead of matched needles you will need a Varta 6 volt V28 PXL Lithium or equivalent.
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There is a Leica trained technician in Adelaide, South Australia, who uses the letter O. I watched him put the seal in my M2 early last year when he CLA'd it.
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Ben, the Rollei T had a plastic push on lens cap, Bayonet 1, which I found easy to use. They are black in colour and IMO look better than the polished metal caps. Well at least they don't draw as much attention to the camera. I found several on the big auction site for about US$10 each.
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Arthur, KL lenses need an adaptor ring if they are used on a Pro SD body as that body has a larger lens mount than the Pro and Pro S bodies to enable it to mount the 75mm shift lens. You should be able to use a KL lens without the adaptor ring on the Pro S. The KL lens you're looking at may not have the adaptor ring fitted, but if so you'll find it may be difficult to get off but with patience will move.
David
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There are some good shots there, Neil. I particularly like #28.
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Andy, if you think you've used a cable release, have you checked that the MU socket on the lens has returned to its proper position? If you can see a red band around it, you wont be able to fire the shutter.
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Brian,
On the RHS of the film advance lever is a small lever that can be moved towards the front of the magazine. This lever allows multiple exposures. If you move it towards the back of the magazine, so the lever is parallel to film plane, it should then only allow single shots and the film will wind on. On my magazines there is a red spot that is visible when the lever is moved forward. Hope that helps.
David
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Thanks, Karim.
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Can anyone tell me the difference between K/L L and K/L L-A lenses, please.
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Amit, according to Dennis Laney, 76349 chrome bodies were made between 1957-1968 against 1871 black bodies. That's why they are so expensive. Unless you are a collector, they aren't worth it IMO.
Film Straight in Holder
in Large Format
Posted