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jim kerr

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Posts posted by jim kerr

  1. Well friends, thanks to each of you for all your prompt responses. I was thinking I had a pretty decent sample myself. Out of curiousity I would like to find out if Popular Photography magazine has done a test, and which issue it appears in......Thanks.....Jim
  2. Hello Justin, Using your camera's meter at 1600 is not likely to give you a real accurate exposure. Reflection meters as in a camera's meter can only get the accurate exposure if you use a grey card as the target and in the same light as your eventual subject. The only other way is to use an incident meter, and use it properly.... Years ago, when I was shooting High School Basketball, I was advised(by 2 highly regarded professional photographers) to shoot Tri-x at 1600 in the two local gymnasiums at an exposure of 1/125@f2.8 or 1/250@f2 and don't worry about what the camera's meter was telling you, of course you would be shooting on manual exposure. Then develope the film for twice the recommended time in D-76(1:1). Every negative I ever shot was nothing but excellent.......Jim
  3. Bob,not that I'm any Ansel Adams, but I have been at it for 40 years.For film developing I used D-76(1:1) mostly until XTOL came out,I've also used Acufine, HC-110B (1:31), Diafine, DK-50, DK-20, etc.,etc. And several that needed to be mixed from scratch....For my money XTOL @ (1:2)is the champ. For developing papers I have used Dektol(1:2) almost exclusively, Kodak Indicater Stop Bath, and Kodak Rapid Fixer, and Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, and Edwal's LFN liquid foaming agent..... These last 4 are diluted as package says.......Good luck.......Jim
  4. Thanks to everyone that is helping me with this, a number of years ago I had a friend that really knew about this electrical stuff and could answer and explain any electrical question I had or any graduate electrical engineer would pose to him, but he passed away about 25 years ago.....so thanks......Jim
  5. Wow, Mike, that pretty well covers it. I think what I had best do is trip my 283 or 285 mounted on my Vivitar SL-2 slave and let my DL's built-in flash do the triping that way there is no electrical connection to worry about........Thanks again.....Jim
  6. Thanks Chris, Both of mine are pretty old and made in Japan, so I'm still afraid to try, I would hate to have some lightning go off in my fairly new camera.....The number I had for Vivitar only gets me a busy signal after many trys......Jim
  7. Any danger of messing up my Pentax *istDL by using either my Vivitar 283 or

    285, both are original models and still work very well on my 35s.......Jim

  8. Thanks for taking your time, I realize now I should not have asked it in so general terms. I think judging by what you have said that something around 800-850nm may be about right to do what I want......I just thought there might be someone out there that had a favorite filter , other than an R-72, that they were having very good results with on their *ist DL.......Jim
  9. Is the any way to adjust the brightness of the writing below the screen in a

    *ist DL viewfinder, it is fine indoors but in the sunshine it is impossible to

    see, even with a real rubber eyecup(not the useless thing that comes on cameras

    nowdays).....Jim

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