davidxgreen

<p>Awesome, I'd no idea that the plug and adapter I needed to fire the second monolite were already in the Flashwaves box. So that's what those are for! Thanks so much all for the help<br>

<br />As far as the two widely opposing opinions about the trigger voltage, I'll have to side with Paul and the chap from B&H. Makes me now a little nervous but I have also been firing one monolite directly from a port in my cameras (various Pentax digitals, including the K-3) as well as using a hotshoe thingy and nothing bad has ever happened.<br>

I imagine if the trigger voltage was going to kill one of my digital cameras it would've happened by now...or is that faulty thinking?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>ah, brilliant, thanks Henry! Looking forward to the next pilgimage to your fine shop!</p>

<p>I meant to say thanks to Paul (e.g. "the other posters"). am having trouble with this site today.<br>

Will check the box of jacks and things that came with the flashwaves. didn't think the solutions would be so fast and accessible today!</p>

<p>Hey David thanks for that too. Will wait and hear if anyone disagrees with the trigger voltage safety issue and meanwhile am ordering the part you so kindly linked for me. thanks again!</p>

<p>Thanks to the other posters who got in before this message. will look into all of this, help much appreciated!!</p>

<p>Ah, so simple. Brilliant, thanks. Excuse my lack of mechanical aptitutde but do I have to have any concerns about hurting the camera powering two monolites this way? I'm only asking as there does seem to be conversations online about "trigger voltage" etc. Thanks again!</p>

<p>Anyone know any similar options to the photobox pro galleries. It was an excellent set-up but they're phasing out (e.g. starting to charge monthly fees for) the service. The idea is to sell prints directly to clients, the online printing company hosts the images, I set my own prices for them and they take orders and send the prints directly to clients. Then pay me the difference.<br>

What are y'all using to sell prints, e.g. of a private event like a birthday party?<br>

thanks a bunch for any tips for the UK </p>

<p>Is there any way to use two Bowens 400D monolites at the same time? I have flashwaves wireless triggers but the lights only have one sync lead/jack in the back. One of them goes into my camera but I can't figure out if it's possible to fire both somehow.<br>

<br />Also in the market for an inexpensive BW-1890 (to adapt one of these monolites to S mount softboxes).<br>

<br />Thanks in advance</p>

<p>I would just like to plug <strong>SRS Microsystems</strong> due to yet another excellent customer service experience I had. Over the years I've found the staff extremely competent and in this case the repair that they had done with the wholesaler Into2020 was above and beyond the call of duty. So thanks again and if anyone is looking for competitive prices in the London/Uk area and a shop you can trust...</p>

<p>thanks guys for all the input (and kind words Peter). I'll probably throw this and the others on ebay and see what comes back. shame though, could've enjoyed the macro on my new k20d!</p>

<p>I just acquired a kiron 105mm f2.8 macro from my father's estate. It fits canon FD Can anyone tell me if it's possible to convert the lens to use with pentax? sure would like to use this one! thanks</p>

<p>I just acquired one of these from my father's estate. Can anyone tell me if it's possible to convert the lens to use with pentax and, if not, how much I should sell it for? thanks in advance, Dave</p>

Careful, I don't think the IST film camera uses the same eye piece as the Ist DL - try searching ebay for eye piece, eyepiece, eye cup, eyecup and view finder.

It's not the SD card or the camera.

The photo was fine, I sold it, copied it etc. NOW, this copy suddenly went weird. Does anyone have any experience with anything here that doesn't relate to the camera or the card (e.g. something to do with the computer, RAM, software etc.). Thanks all

No, these are files that have already been transferred fine, then photoshopped with no problems. Then sometime down the line they go strange. Sometimes also tiny pixel lines about an inch or two across. I can only imagine it happens when copying them from one folder to another or maybe due to defragmenting the computer...? any ideas?

This is now happening to files that I'm not working on or copying etc. It

appears at random Could it have something to do with suspicions I've been

having that a stick of RAM might be faulty (although I've run MemTest on it and

it doesn't find any problems. I will post the pic if I can figure it out.<div></div>

Thanks to all of you for the contributions. Especially the eye-dropper white/black/grey tool, which I didn't even know about. So far the best technique for this I found yesterday just by experimenting with image - adjustments - channel mixer. Then just messing about until it looks good. I even got "true" skin tones from this series this way!

I've ended up with a couple hundred pics shot on digital camera all

of which have a similar colour cast (reddish-yellow). Could someone

talk me through the Photoshop correction a bit. When I simply add

blue in curves it needs too much blue to correct the skin so parts of

the pic end up too blue, while the face is still too red/yellow.

thanks for any tips.<div></div>

but why don't you contact Adobe directly, talk to tech support or just a given techie there, should be able to answer you definitively.

Otherwise, I myself just went from 512 to 1 gig of RAM and photoshop is soooo much faster.

BODY: Does anyone have any experience with using different

photographic paper with this printer (or a similar one)? I've namely

found two great deals at 7dayshop.com for Canon GP 401 and Canon PP

101 as well as Fuji 180 gsm Multijet Quality inkjet (I think it was

100 sheets of A4 for 13 pounds!).

I suppose one consideration is longevity but my first thought is just

whether the quality will be ok or not. Thanks for any help.

 

==================================

 

Answers

Michael Houghton , oct 19, 2004; 08:37 a.m.

Before I gave my Photo 750 away and upgraded to an R800, I had

fantastic results (better than I've ever had with other papers) with

Ilford Galerie Classic Pearl and Classic Gloss.

The longevity claims (under glass) are promising, and the results are

stunning - but you will need to leave the prints to dry fully for

some time (I reckon a day or so) before you frame (the pearl paper

stays a bit sticky for a while, in particular).

 

It's not too expensive in the UK, and Ilford have periodic two-for-

one offers with various magazines. Here's hoping they stay in

business to continue to make the stuff!

I'm hoping some of you can save me some time and aggravation on this.

I'm using a Pentax P30 with a 300mm Tamron lens, Metz flash unit 32-

MZ3. On the back of the flash you have to set the lens to 85, 50, 35,

28 or CZ. First of all, if my zoom lens is at let say 65 mm, which

setting would I use and do I need to compensate for the difference?

Secondly, if I use the 300, is it the exact same thing as using the

85 setting? When the flash is set to 85 do I need to do anything when

I change the zoom between lets say 200 or 300 mm? Lastly, if I now

add a doubler, worst case scenario 600 mm total, what happens to the

light/aperture/shutter speed ratio when the flash can only remain on

lens 85? Thanks for your help in advance!

Dave Green

First of all I agree with the last entry because it refers to me. I'm a mediocre photographer (still) but above average in selling myself. I've just sold a photo to a greeting card company. How? I sent out 100 query letters asking for their needs and then sent them the types of things they were looking for. They chose one and offered $400 for it. As a rule I disagree with anyone saying "it's difficult" or "the odds are against you" etc. The best advice I've read is to target magazines, publications, newspapers, book sellers that you either already read or that use the type of photos you have already been taking and then offer to send a few sample photos. Good luck - you can sell some of your photos - guaranteed!<div></div>

I'm sorry but it's all so complicated. I've just received this

response from a publishing company that does greeting cards and it

will be the first official sale of a photograph for me!!

 

"The photo you sent (bird on the ground) is just what we are looking

for. We prefer to buy designs outright but please let me know your

costs, terms etc."

 

Can someone please give me a reasonable price range to request (I

live in the UK but understand $ as well), and basically tell me what

to say to begin negotiations via email (I've never negotiated

anything, usually just taking the first price offered). The added

variable in this is that I ultimately don't care about the photo,

don't think it was very good but sent it knowing that it might suit

their needs. However, I need to know how to do this because I'm

sending lots more out this week to other greeting card companies and

will be sure to be faced with this question again soon. Thanks in

advance to all you experts!

Can anyone tell me the cheapest way to protect the 20-30 photos that

I'm about to submit to a few companies to see if they would like to

buy rights to any of them. At the moment I'm broke so I think

Digimarc might not be an option...plus I'm hoping there's a way to

protect photos in general without having to specifically register

each one, which I think might be the case with digimarc or

copyrighting in general (I could be wrong though).

Thanks for your help!

- dave green

I just want to post a quick thank-you to all of you who contributed so much to my growing understanding of light and photos. thank you!! I've printed out your responses and am studying them and working out which ones to implement on the shoot this wednesday. it's amazing to be able to draw on the experience of so many skilled photographers. - dave green

Can anyone advise me on this before I go and reshoot this job next wk?

I recently photographed a small recording studio and none of the

pictures came out well. The shots taken using a "flood light" at the

location have glare on the equipment. All the others, using 1600

speed color film, are seriously lacking blue/are too yellow. one

difficulty was the computer monitors - eg they are overexposed (the

client wanted to be able see the details on the monitors) - how can I

compensate for the bright monitors and still get clear details of the

rest of the studio (which was invariably underexposed). I didn't use

a flash because I assumed it would reflect too much off the

equipment. I used a tripod with F-stops approx. 1/8 - 1/60 for all

the shots. I've posted one photo below as an example.

I'd be very grateful for any help!<div></div>