daver1

Hi David,

<br/>

When I visited the Bridge in 2005, I arrived relatively early in the day, but we had our own boat. The light was already a bit too harsh but still nice enough for some photos. I'd suggest you arrive earlier rather than later.

<br/>

-Dave<br/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Inflammatory responses aside, you get published for one reason, and one reason only: You have something that a content publisher WANTS. And how do you get what they want? Well, you either go out and shoot things that no one ever has that might be interesting, or you shoot new and unique perspectives on existing icons that no one has done (or few have attempted).<p/>

The whole film/digital thing doesn't matter as much as that one salient point. Beyond that, deciding what target publications take as a format (slide or CD) is a relatively simple choice. Most publications STILL accept (and in some cases, prefer) slides. It's helpful to be able to do both, since you often don't know what someone will want, but the single most important thing is to find a shooting style or subject matter and deeply explore that. If you have true passion about it, the results will speak for themselves.

<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Hi Andrew,

<p/>

Last spring, I was able to compare my Tachi 4x5 to a friend's Wista DX 4x5 (which is supposed to be the "matching version" IIRC)--I noticed that the Wista had more "bells and whistles"--seemed like it had more adjustments, knobs and just "stuff" on it. Made it a lot heavier, and not a lot more functional IMO. There were a couple of things that it could do very easily that the Tachi could not (which I don't recall off hand, but what that tells me is that they weren't critical to my style of shooting). I suspect that the 8x10s have similar differences (whoa, add THAT to your oxymoron list today!).

<p/>

FWIW,<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href=http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Since no one else mentioned it, I'll pipe up: Tusayan, just south of the entrance, has excellent motel facilities and is a mere 10 miles outside the park. No sense is driving all the way up from Williams or Flagstaff (!). Rates are MUCH cheaper in Tusayan than inside the park and the difference in drive time is not substantial, if you're on a budget.<p/>

FWIW,<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Hi Robert,

<p/>

I own the Calumet Wood XM 8x10 (which is basically a rebranded Tachihara 8x10--I have compared it side-by-side with a friend's Tachihara and they're darn close in construction and design). It's 11 lbs without a lens (the 4x5 is almost 6, so double the weight of a light 4x5). I haven't ever seen this ShenHao, but if it's like the 4x5 ShenHao, then I suspect it's a little heavier (since it mirror the Ebony design and construction). From the picture you show, it looks like it uses a different wood (maple?) than its smaller cousin, so I can't really guess on stiffness or weight.

<p/>

I'm very happy with mine in terms of weight and usage...

<p/>

FWIW,<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Mark--

<p/>

Yes, when you have the QL in the "open" position, it effectively becomes a small sail that can flap happily in the breeze. It can (and will, in a moderate breeze) introduce subtle vibrations into your camera that will affect sharpness.

<p/>

The nice thing about film holders that QL can't touch is that I can pull the dark slide completely out, and take the "sail effect" out of the equation altogether.<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Having lived in Alaska for a year, I can say that March is an excellent time to be out...

<p/>

IIRC, the Iditarod starts in early March and there's a ton of activity associated with it around Anchorage (ice carving contests, which are quite interesting to photograph, especially at night). The aurora is usually in peak form that time, although it's helpful to be on a calling list to know when it's happening. Stop by the Todd Salat gallery (look it up in the phone book, or stop by his website <a href="http://www.salatshots.com">http://www.salatshots.com</a>) and ask to be on the phone list. I did when I was there and didn't regret the 2am calls (they happen pretty infrequently).

<p/>

Wildlife will be scarce for sure...There's always Portage Glacier and the Chugach mountains to enjoy. Drive to Seward or Homer (a few hours) and experience some coastal life...

<p/>

Enjoy,<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Oh, one more things about the non-Graflok back on a Tachi: It accepts QL holders with ease. I use it all the time, no problems. I have heard the Shen Hao works just fine as well. If you never plan to use a roll film back, then I would say a Graflok option isn't very important.

<p/>

-D

Two reasons not to buy the Wista: Price (much more expensive, 1.5-2x difference for new) and Weight (Wista is heavier). But they're both good cameras.

<p/>

One reason TO buy the Wista instead of the Tachi: More movements. I haven't found this to be a limitation in how I use my Tachi's.

<p/>

I have two Tachi's--4x5 and 8x10 (which is a Calumet Wood XM, a rebranded older version) and they're fine cameras. Shen Hao is an Ebony knockoff. Similar tradeoffs to Tachi vs. Wista.

<p/>

One reason to go Tachi vs. Shen Hao is that the Tachi is easier to get in the US. Contact Jim at Midwest Photo--he usually has one or two Tachi's in stock (4x5). Shen Hao must be ordered, IIRC, from China which can take a long time to manufacture and ship.

<p/>

Decide what's important: Movements vs. weight. Or use of a Graflok back (a stock Shen Hao can do that, Tachi can't). Then make your choice and go for it. Chances are, there's always something you'll love and something that will bug you about the camera...But if you're just getting into LF, you probably won't notice since you'll be learning on this one.

<p/>

Enjoy,<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

I only have one piece of hard evidence right now from Fujifilm's Director of Marketing Communications. RVP 100 (the "new" Velvia, not to be confused with 100F) will be available in LF (4x5 cut, QL, and 8x10) immediately upon launch, so they clearly are thinking this is an important market segment.

<p/>

Until a digital back comes along that is cost-effective and usable for shorter exposures, LF film won't be going away anytime soon, IMO.

<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Michael--

<p/>

If you call that person directly and speak with them, you can get better and more complete information. This email has been (re-)used for some time. It's almost like their party line on the matter.

<p/>

Bottom line: They don't specifically mention formats and availability with RVP 50 in that email (This of course, is key--I've been trying to get my hands on some 8x10 sheets since late Jan without success until recently when I talked with Katie Sanchez, Director of Marketing Communications, who told me about the 10-sheet box availability and the lack of 50-sheet in either speed). I'm sure you'll be able to get 4x5 much easier than the 8x10 for awhile yet...My problem is specifically getting the 8x10, and given that they will only have "limited quantities on launch", I translate that as "good luck getting it for about 6 months".

<p/>

YMMV,<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Although something like this would normally go in the film category,

since this is specific to LF, I'm dumping it here.

<p/>

Fuji's Velvia announcement is well known at this point...What isn't

well known (and I found out directly from a Marketing Comm director

at Fujifilm) is the following:

<p/>

For the CURRENT RVP 50:<p/>

- 50 sheet boxes are no longer available. They were only made in

orders of 100 boxes and they sold the special order overstock to

dealers, if interested. They will not be making any more of these,

ever again.

<p/>

- They still have 10 sheet boxes of fresh-dated RVP 50 8x10. You

have to ask a dealer with a Fuji account to buy them. Use the

product code 02301260 when ordering. They currently have 50 boxes in

stock. When they're gone, they're out. Forever.

<p/>

For the upcoming RVP 100:<p/>

- 50 sheet boxes are NEVER going to be produced due to low demand for

8x10 film.<p/>

- 10 sheet boxes will be available at the launch date in limited

quantities (they don't have a product code to use for this yet)

<p/>

So, the end result--if you want some RVP 50 8x10 film, you have to

call your favorite dealer and give them that code and the number of

boxes you want to order.

<p/>

Best of luck filling your freezers...If nothing else, just to tide

yourself over until you can get your RVP 100. :)

<p/>

-D

<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Hi Chuk,

<p/>

I shoot both. It's been my experience that I have yet to have a dust problem with my holders. With that said, I'm very careful when I load or unload about cleaning them with canned air (I take a can with me for field unloads too). I never use a changing tent (I hear that's a dust nightmare) and I have enough holders to get me through a few days where I can unload in a hotel at night. I still use Quickloads when I go on longer hikes to cut back on weight, but with my 8x10, I have no choice but to use holders.

<p/>

I don't think it's a huge problem if you pay attention to the details. Store your holders in a plastic bag between uses and that will make a huge difference in just keeping the particulates away from the holders in the first place.

<p/>

FWIW,<p/>

-D

<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Working on 8x10 without first mastering 4x5 is a little like climbing Mount Everest without training first. It's doable, but you'll pay dearly for it, and it will likely frustrate the hell out of you. I would focus on the 4x5, put away the 8x10 for now, but maybe buy lenses with an eye towards fitting both, so you can grow into the other one. It sounds like this is your first foray into LF, so taking the time to understand the nuances of the 4x5 would be beneficial before jumping in the deep end.<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Hi Jim,<p/>

I went at the time of the festival last year, although it was in the middle of the week. There were people, but it wasn't like New Jersey or anything. That particular week is chosen because it's most likely to be the peak of the season, although it can vary due to weather and snowmelt conditions, none of which you can predict until July 10th. :) With little effort, you can find SOMETHING around there. I asked a few locals at the festival and within 2 hours, I had more than enough to fill 4 days of explorations in the area. If you're looking for a specific trail or shot, that may or may not work depending on the conditions. <p/>

No matter what time you go in July, something will be blooming...it's just a question of what, and how much. <p/>

HTH,<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Any time I want lens info, I go to largeformatphotography.info. You can find an excellent comparative chart at the site from the link below:<p/>

<a href="http://largeformatphotography.info/lenses/LF8x10in.html">http://largeformatphotography.info/lenses/LF8x10in.html</a>

<p/>

-D

<p/>

<a href="http://www.coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Obviously, this answer is totally subjective because "moderate corrective movements" isn't really quantifiable.<p/>

I have a 120 Nikkor SW that, like you said, "just makes the corners". It's the equiv of 17mm on 35mm. I would use it only if I knew that either the corners didn't matter, or that the movement I need wasn't very much. So that's not a good candidate--and that's about as wide as you can get on an 8x10.<p/>

I have a Fuji 240-A that seems to work pretty well in the range you're talking about (33mm equiv of 35mm)--I can't crank the front tilt to its max, but I can get some "moderate corrective movement", enough for me anyhow. The image circle is 336mm. You can get much bigger circles if you go with the Rodenstock APO Sironar-S (372mm), but then you've just quadrupled your lens weight and tripled your price for not an equivalent change in sharpness or value, IMO...Depends on what's important to you. :)<p/>

HTH,<p/>

-D<p/>

<p/>

<a href="http://www.coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

And yet another for Carol. She recently completed repair to a Prontor shutter on my 75mm and restored it to full health.

<p/>

Props to Carol--her service and prices can't be beat.<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Using a wood or carbon fiber tripod will help reduce the vibations, simply because they don't transmit as well in either medium compared to say, aluminum. I don't know if the flowing river will still present too much vibration for your shooting though. Depends on the flow rate of the river, the shutter speed, etc. Adding weight to whatever you have will be an asset, but probably not a guarantee. No room to shoot from the bank, eh?

<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

In addition to what's already been mentioned about vignetting, I'd like to also point out that combining these two filters under a clear blue sky tends to make the rendering of the sky an unnaturally dark blue (I'd say almost blackening the sky). Polarizers alone can cause this, but adding the two together is almost certainly a recipe for a black sky under certain circumstances.

<p/>

If I shoot with a GND, I always omit the polarizer. You'll get some darkening of the sky with the GND anyhow.

<p/>

YMMV,

<p/>

-D

<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

So, in doing some research as to which tripods are solid enough for

an 11lb 8x10 camera, almost everyone says "Ries A100". Some have

countered with "Berlebach", but I'm at a loss as to which exact

model, given that the site lists every measurement in metric and it

seems that the center column models can't possibly be as rigid as the

Ries platform head...

<p/>

Does anyone out there know of a direct model number that compares?

I'm looking for something with at least 6' in height, so include

extenders if necessary...<p/>

<p/>

Thanks,

<p/>-D<p/>

<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

There's a nice compromise with the Velbon Maxi-E. It's a lightweight tripod (<2lbs), relatively inexpensive ($69 IIRC), and pretty stable for its size (If pressed, and the wind was calm, I'd put a 4x5 on it). Not very large (maybe 14" long when collapsed) and comes with a carrying bag.<p/>

<p/>

Who says you can't have it all?<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://www.coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Something else to consider--most pro labs don't have machines that can print wider than 48" in the smaller dimension (they use rolls of FCA paper that are 48" wide). If you want a 5x7, you'll be printing strips and then having to mount them on a board next to each other, so there will be a seam of some sort.

<p/>

-D<p/>

<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Does anyone have direct experience with the sharpness, usability

(focusing on a fresnel lens), and contrast with these 3 lenses? Is

there anything you WOULDN'T recommend about them? A search here

turned up precious little, so I'm tossing this out...

<p/>

Thanks,<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>

Hi Tim,

<p/>

Cokin's filters are produced with cheaper plastic (which is why they're the least expensive of the group) and they tend to tint the resulting images (I see something of a magenta shift when I use them). As for the others, I use Hi-tech and they are as neutral as you can get without paying a fortune. The others are also good (I haven't personally verified that, but I hear a lot of positive comments about Singh-Ray, Tiffen, and Hoya), but probably not as good in the price/performance ratio analysis. Whatever you do, you'll probably want to avoid glass for the breakage factor.

<p/>

My $0.02,<p/>

-D<p/>

<a href="http://coyoteimages.com">Coyote Images</a>