georg_scheck

Hi Alan,

interesting stuff:27 mm is Zeiss Ikon Contaflex SuperB/BC,32 mm is

Kodak Retina IIc,IIIc,46 mm is Rollei XF 35.

But there will be more specialists in the net to answer the rest.

Regards Georg

A picture made on Efke 25 film would probably show even finer grain

Georg Scheck

I made the same experience with same type of camera and Kodak T 400 CN

versus Ilford FP 4. The tonal range in the conservative type of film is a lot richer, whereas grain is better in that C 41 process stuff.

Gentlemen,

be careful with the mushrooms.I would be afraid of that fungus stuff

creeping between the lenses:-)) Georg

Tim,

congratulations,you got a nice outfit in good old workmanship.

If you dial "A" for automatic on the aperture ring,the mechanically working automatic will choose the fitting combo of speed/aperture for you.You can read it in the window on the right side inside the prism finder.Sans the auto setting you choose whatever combination you want.

As the Pro-Tessars all have lower aperture than the standart tessar,

you could not get more light in,even if dialing to f:2,8.

By the way,filter sizes are S 60 and S 67 for the Pro-Tessars.

Georg

Pablo,

its two snapshot settings.A close and a distant one.Depending on your aperture setting(f-stop) you can forget about focusing before shooting as you will get good image quality in a wide range of distances.

Good light Georg

Congratulations,Mike!Dream places,dream shots!

Just a technical question:Was it print ore slide film you worked with? Which brand? I presume,the Color-Skopar lens is all you can wish for,at least under these ideal light conditions.Would the pics look much diffferent if taken with a sonnar,Summicron or Ultron instead? Good light Georg

Jorn,congratulations!

My last trip to NYC is a long time back.Did you scan the negatives or the prints? Your pics really have got that "Andreas Feininger"-touch from the Fifties.

Good light Georg

Is the first pic the one shot at 4:00 oclock?

Colour temperature looks lower,a little on the red side?

Good light Georg

Richard,

let me ask you a question:

What is your impression about that Kiev 4 cameras mechanically?

Was there any necessity to do a CLA or shutter maintenance?

How do the lens threads fit? How is the overall quality and shutter sound?

From your scans the optical quality looks very promising.

Would you recommend that camera type for every day shooting?

Thank you Georg

What I found out about those older CZJ lenses,they all show good workmanship and funktion. Especially the stuff made in the late fifties/early sixties is a joy to use.Smooth working elements and

a high number of aperture blades that create the creamy,highly praised "bokeh" on the background lights are probably the main points.

The latter ones,especially the "zebra" designs show great variety in quality.

At least one point in discussion is often forgotten:

As fifty years old cameras need CLA,also lenses earn a certain degree of maintenance,as to chance of grease,and cleaning from haze and funghus.Then they should last forever.

Probably the main factor in posessing and using these lenses has to

do with the expertship and professionality ,that the name Carl Zeiss and relatives is promising.

It once sure was true,today more modern designs may have overtaken

performancewise but,as children of the MechanicalAge,we all are,leave

us our toys.

Good light Georg

Anthony,

the same problem with my 338 type Contapol.Maybe we miss an adapting ring like a 27 mm thread tube or like.Aktually all Contapols I saw, look the same.Who can help?

Georg

The same problem with my Zeiss-Ikon Nettar with theNovar Anastigmat.

Are there regular 35,5 mm hoods and filters for slip on mount around? Georg

As the subject of the discussion beneath funghus now also is haze,here is my question: Is haze a lens defect mostly found on smokers glasses or more like accumulated dust in the years of storing?

How to remove best? I have learned that lens tissue might be a lens killer as it tends to scratch the coating.Whats the best cleaning mean,except a protective filter screwed in?

Thanks Georg

Nicolas,

do you think there is a technical way to remove that kind of growing lens funghus,or will there ever stay traces of it on the glass even after cleaning?I myself have eperienced a more cloudy-type growing

species that seemed to feed on the grease in an old 4/135 mm CZJ Sonnar.

Georg

Gentlemen,

as to the mentioned Rollei 2,8 C:Dont you see a way of removing the frontlens element,have it polished,recoated and reassembled?Especially with the xenotar it should be a single lens element.My C is in the same condition,its as already said, a nice soft focus camera.Any ideas?

Georg

Nicolas,

thank you for your effort.Both batteries tried had been used ones.

So I will sacrifice a new one to be sure.Otherwise from the pictures of the screw heads the camera looks unopened yet.

hopefully first film will arrive tomorrow.

Other members of the forum are quite sure the optic quality of the Rollei 35 s will be on par with my Kodak Retina IIc.

Good light Georg

Nicolas,

I would like to apply for a copy via email.

I have got my little baby one week ago and am waiting for the first role of film(b/w) coming back.

Only drawback,the battery is sucked up within hours ,even with the

photometer opening covered.

Maybe your manual can help

Georg

After the answers I got from you all I started the first experiments with my Rollei 35 S.

Its a hefty little piece in the pocket.I have got good luck:being in Munich at a grand photo dealers place with a lot of second hand items and searching the boxes with various items I found a matching sunshade and a Zeiss Ikon 30,5 mm Skylight filter coming with it.

And the guy at the counter gave it to me for free.Thats good customers policy.

But after putting in a Chinese PX 625( I presume mercury-based)

the lightmeter doesnt live up to its expectations and is at least 3 stops away from my Lunasix value.

Is there a way to calibrate the cameras lightmeter?

Georg

It depends if the cleaning marks(scratching) is only in the coating

or deeper in the glass body.The Xenotar has got a single element front lens whereas the planar is a double cemented together.With the Xenotar it shouldn t be to much of a problem trying to get a good front lens element from a scrap camera and simply change it.

Also polishing and recoating in your optics store could be considered

otherwise some people like the "Hamilton" look of their pictures.

Good light Georg

Friends,

just as I opened the forum to post a question about my recently acquired Rollei 35 S,I found your useful hint.

Here is my question: Will that little thing live up to the expectations set by my Retina IIc qualitywise,other than being very pocketfriendly?

Are there useful recommendations in avoiding problems with that little camera out there?

Any input welcome! Georg

What do you think about this type of camera as a machine using my M

42-lenses,as my VOIGTLAENDER vsl1 is getting weak,as do my Zeniths.

How do I make the meter work?

Any help required. Georg

As there is no mirror lock up availiable on that type of camera,how

do you all fight the vibrations from mirror slam at slower speeds.

When do they show up?Any help appreciated.

Which model would you prefer?

Is there an adapter around to use Carl Zeiss Jena lenses with the

Pentax 67?