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kerkko_kehravuo

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Posts posted by kerkko_kehravuo

  1. <p>What is the most reliable V-Hasselblad type and manufacturing period? I have my experience, my thoughts and Hasselblads already. Just would nice to hear also your thoghts.</p>

    <p>- 1600F and 1000F do have their bad reputation, as well as the first modern focal shutter models?<br>

    - winder models generally have generally good reputation, just batterycases?<br>

    - 500 C/M were great, newer models not exactly at the same level?<br>

    - all Superwides troublefree?<br>

    - Flexbody troublefree?<br>

    - Arcbody?<br>

    - C, CF, CFi lenses work all as well, no shutter problems, no separation?</p>

    <p>What do you think?</p>

    <p>K.</p>

     

  2. <p>Jos,</p>

    <p>Thank you of your reply! I know the question is difficult, that is why I asked it. I thougt that someone had maybe done the rechearch already. Some structures have remaind the same for decades, in Hasselblad line for example 250 mm Sonnar and 38 mm Biogon. And then there are structures that come and go. I guess that most zoom lenses belong to these.</p>

    <p>K.</p>

  3. <p>Thank you of your replies!</p>

    <p>The problem is not at all the head, I am just worried of the body. The lens is not so heavy, still it's centre of gravity is quite far of the head, especially with the Mutar and that makes a clear tension (M = F * l) to the body. That Manfrotto support sounds good.</p>

    <p>K.</p>

  4. <p>As mentioned 35 mm and 80 mm lenses are not too practical, but I guess practicality is not the point when playing with classic cameras. Both lenses make good quality shots. Framing with tele lens and optical 35/80 finder is not too accurate. With 80 mm lens and it's close up lens you can find a focusing distance where range finder works right, only one distance, still nice. For me the biggest disadvantage has not been transfering the distance setting but loosing foldability. Retinas are great cameras.</p>

    <p>K.</p>

  5. <p>Hasselblad knob meter is a nice device. Most, or the most new ones, are accurate. Location at the side of the camera is not too practical, wile you have turn the camera to read the meter. Also difficult to read these narrow black & wihte stripes, takes time. I still like it, with 500 C/M, 80/2,8 and ever ready case.</p>

    <p>K.</p>

  6. <p>Recently there has been discussion of Canon FD extenders 2x A and B at the forum. Manufacturer gives it´s guidelines of use. What is your experience, witch one works better and with witch lens? I have both extenders, but have mostly used only B, with TS 35 mm f:2,8 and FDN 300 mm f:4 L. TS stopped mostly down to f:22 and 300 mm tele wide open. In both case results have been exellent.</p>

    <p>K.</p>

  7. <p>If adapter has to be "glassless" answer is these mirrorless cameras, if it has to be glassless and Canon answer is Canon EOS M. I enjoy Canon FDn lenses on Olympus Pen with Novoflex adapter. As a general lens mostly with FDn 24 mm f:1,4, FDn 17 mm f:4 works great as a modest wide angle and FDn 50 mm f:1,2 L as a portrait lens. Not a bad way to have "digital film" for Canon FD?</p>

    <p>And yes, I have that Olympus kit zoom 14 mm - 42 mm but I don´t like it.</p>

  8. <p>What would camera would suit photographing wriswatches:</p>

    <p>- to take product shots in a light tent in day light<br>

    - wristwatch face should fill the whole picture area<br>

    - focal length should be as 100 mm ... 200 mm in 35 mm format because of light tent<br>

    - no need for integrated flash, flash sync would be nice<br>

    - possibility to use polarizing filter would be nice<br>

    - results would be used in internet, so no need for extra pixels<br>

    - price around 500 USD</p>

    <p>Looking forward for your kind ideas!</p>

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