paul_kurian
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Posts posted by paul_kurian
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Now I got it.Sample below. 85/1.2L @ 1.2,1/60,10D
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If I am not mistaken, we have to use a tripod when we use shutter speeds like 1/10 sec, otherwise subject may blur due to camera movement.Please give your opinions.
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Sorry, here is the link
<a href="http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=2701"
>20D PSCS</a>
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Here is the link
<a href="http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=2701">20D PSCS</a>
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Here is the link
<a href="http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=2701"</a>
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I am using normally two primes for my 10D, 24/1.4 and 85/1.2. Both are excellent lens.
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another sample<div>
</div>
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Joining the idea of Rodrick. Have a look to the sample<div></div>
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I prefer 85mm/1.2L as the best portrait lens for full frame and 1.3 crop factor body<div></div>
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85mm/1.2L is my favourite lens for portraits. Its shallow D.O.F gives you lot of possibilities.<div></div>
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I prefer Kodak TMAX 400CN for weddings.Sample picture below<div></div>
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I'm normally using two flashes for events. 550EX as master and will be on the camera and assistant will hold 420EX to give either a side lit or a backlit situation. Both flashes will have a diffuser in the camera.<div></div>
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Now a days I prefer to work with primes only for events.The main reason is to isolate the subject from clutter background. I am a 10D user and uses mostly 24mm/1.4L and 85mm/1.2L.I am very happy with that setup.<div></div>
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The above photo was in Adobe RGB colour profile. Here is the SRGB version
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Another example with same technic<div></div>
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Please refer the attached picture. Shooting 85mm/1.2L wide open makes the background blur is one of the solution<div></div>
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I'm happy with 24-70 L with the results. But I'm not at all happy with its weight. It is a sharp lens, no doubt. To carry this continuosly for 4 hours, shoulder paining. But 85mm/1.2 also seems heavy, but me didn't own one.<div></div>
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I strongly recommend Stroboframe Pro T bracket with 420EX flash combination<div></div>
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I own 24-70 zoom. It is a real sharp lens from aperture 4.0 onwards. But I'm not very happy with this lens due to the excess weight.I'm using this with 10D. Sending herewith a sample picture which I take today with this lens.<div></div>
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I'm uploading a picture with 24mm/1.4L. I have very good opinion about this lens.I got excellent results even wide open. Go ahead.<div></div>
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Better to mention two more things for the above sample. The light reading inside the room which stands is f 2.8 @ 1/10 sec , 100 ISO and the flash in ETTL mode. Finally light got balanced- means got sky detail and the subject detail. Hope your doubt is clarified.
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When you are taking pictures outdoors (or wherever you have more lights) and need a small depth of feild, HSS is the solution.In a sunny day for example your reading is f 2.8 @ shutter speed of 1/800 with an ISO 100, if you use the flash the camera will by default set the shutter speed to 1/250 (max sync of your camera) which will make the picture overexposed. So to keep the shutter speed which you set in your camera, the flash/camera should be in the HSS mode. I can post a sample. In that sample I meter for the sky (reading f 2.8 @1/800 and ISO 200). If I didnt set HSS the sky will burn out and my housemaid will be exposed properly because the camera will set shutter speed 1/250 automatically.If I didnt use flash at all for the sky reading, she will be silhetted.<div></div>
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The basic aim of a flash bracket is to eliminate shadows while using the camera in the portrait mode. For that what we need is to keep the flash exactly above the lens. If you are shooting only landscape mode, you dont need a flash bracket.
Canon 85mm f/1.2L focusing tips
in Wedding & Event
Posted