arne_olsson

Sinar-Tachihara, part 2:

One week ago I wrote some questions. Thank you all for the good

answers. Unfortunately I can�t find all of them any longer. For

example the answer from my Norwegan neighbour how to make a Sinar

adapterplate for Linhof boards?

During this week I haven�t done so much LF-work, it�s just a hobby.

Though I�ve managed to fold my Tachihara 4x5 following the Ebony

instructions and the other given advises. OK, I have also unfolded

it again and exposed some Polaroid films. It�s nice to change and

handle the lenses fitted in Wista boards instead of the bulkier

Sinar boards. Before I buy (or make) a Sinar adapterplate for

Linhof boards the following must be clear. Are Horseman and Sinar

boards identical? Do Horseman have the same thickness and the light

trapping laps round the inner edges? Are Wista off-center boards

identical to Linhof boards? Does Linhof have the the light trap laps

in a centered inner circle? I�m not willing to damaged my Sinar or

have light leakage.

I have to admit that I miss the superb quality of the Sinar when

testing the Tachihara. I miss the stability and the engraved scales

for determining depth of focus, plane of sharpness etc. I also miss

the spirit levels and the easy shift possibilities. I do not miss

the weight and bulkiness. Another problem is the beauty of the

camera (one reason why I bought it!). People think I�m a relict from

a hundred years ago especially when using the cloth. The black Sinar

with the (really bulky) binocular viewfinder was more scientific in

it�s character. Do I have to use the included brown cloth when

working with the Tachi or can I find other accessories?

One reason why the Sinar is easy to handle is because it�s

lubricated in all moving parts.

Can I lubricate the Tachi without problems? If so, what kind of

lubricant?

I�m now also interested of finding a more lightweight tripod. The

lightest I have now is a Manfrotto 055 Nature. Are the carbon

tripods good? Can I find a carbon Manfrotto which is compatible with

the not circle round center column of the modern 055? So I can use

the same heads and monoballs in an easy way. Or are the Gitzo

better? Or is the newest �digital� models enough? Or is the best a

wooden one?

I use my Nikon D100 with the 24-120 VR for light metering today when

using the LF. Opinions and what exposure compensations to think of

compared to the optimal digital histogram? I use negative films

(TMAX and Portra) and normally I follow the old rule �expose for the

shadows and develop for the highlights�.

I really like this mixture of modern snapshots and old craftsmanship.

Have a nice week!

/ Arne Olsson, Sweden

Large Format Questions:

I�m a swedish photographer. I have for 3½ decade used Nikon and

Hasselblad cameras.

Five years ago I bought a Sinar F2 to try the LF. I�ve also acquired

4 Rodenstock N-lenses, non APO, with Copal shutters (65/4.5, 90/6.8,

150/5.6 and 210/5.6) and mounted them on Sinar lensboards (140x140

mm). It was all very good except for weight and bulkiness so I

haven�t exposed many frames.

Now (mars 2004) I bought a used Tachihara 4x5 with a Commercial

Congo 150/4.5 lens on a centered �type of Linhofboard�. How is this

lens compared to my Rodenstock 150?

I�ve also purchased 4 Wistabords of the off-centered standard

Linhoftype, because I think the Sinar adapterplate requires this.

Though I haven�t ordered any adapterplate yet. The price was a chock

so perhaps I�ve better let a local technician make one of a standard

Sinarboard? I will not change the Sinarsystem to the worse and hope

that moving the lens ~2 mm forvard (=the thickness of the

Wistaboard) will not course any new problems when focusing or

determining the plane of sharpness? Should the technician even (if

possible) countersink the adapterplate?

Now back to the Tachihara. My first problem is that I can�t fold the

camera. (Please don�t joke about dumb Swedes here.) I could unfold

it!!! Can anyone give me an instruction for this? Is it even

possible to find a complete manual on the net? The second problem is

that the 65 mm lens have practically no movements left course the

thickness of the camera and the off-centered board. Is it possible

to find and use a recessed board to this camera with non

interchangeable bellows? Is it better to buy another lightweight

field camera � which one?

Or is it better to buy another wideangle lens (this one was the most

expensive part of the whole system) with other flangeback � which

one?

Best Regards / Arne Olsson