marc_krouse

I haven't been able to get a resonse from graflex.org and thought

I'd try this question here:

Is there a source that can tell me the year my camera was

manufactured by using the serial number? My serial number is 487807.

There are no patents on the name plate which says simply:

GRAPHIC VIEW

MADE BY GRAFLEX, INC. ROCHESTER, N.Y. U.S.A.

GRAFLEX GENERAL PRECISION

Pic at http://www.pbase.com/marc60biker/inbox

Thanks.

I've been looking for a view camera birthday [21st] present for my

son recently, and while browsing at a local shop a customer dropped

off a Graflex Graphic View II with a G-Claron 9/150 on an original

lens board. A recessed lens board was included as well, all in the

original 'strange material' case. Whole camera appears unused. Very

funky.

Snap decision made and I bought it.

Also in the bottom of the case was this strange looking Gossen

metering set up. Sorta looks like a Luna Pro but the back plate has

metal tabs at the top and a strange rotating clip at the bottom. It

is attached to a wand that says SinarSix. Inside what appears to be

an original box is a shrink wrapped film holder dodad that has

printed instructions for use. Looks like it was never used. The wand

and the meter look like they have been used to some degree.

For newbie large format dudes, do we need this device and if not is

it worth anything? Seems awkward to use and I haven't yet figured

out how the metering dials work. And I have a 70's Luna Pro which I

love.

Thanks all.

Marc

Does the Speed Grip activate the Bronica shutter mechanically or

electrically? If mechanically via the small piston in the base of

the grip, are the electrical connections in the grip [green wire and

black wire] soley for the flash shoe?

I have an AEII prism installed but set to OFF and using a light

meter.

Marc

Heller and Max,

I'm late getting this test done. I shot 60 frames at a motorcycle race this past Saturday. My riding friends were racing and one of them did not survive an on-track incident. The intermitant frames continued and unfortunately I lost many shots, some were the last photos ever taken of my friend Tom.

I experimented with watching the shutter and aperature functions as suggested by Max. The 75mm lens seemed to be functioning perfectly. After removing the speed grip [the drive of which had loosened and come apart] I loaded a roll of 220 film. Mounted on a tripod, AEII still installed, I varied the speeds and aperatures for 15 frames. Switched to a 50mm lens and repeated the process for the last 15 frames.

After developing the film, all frames were exposed. No skips. No doubles. No problems.

So damn. That might leave the speed grip [which was installed the racetrack] as a culprit. I have not figured out how a defective advance would leave me with 'clear' frames interspersed with 'exposed' frames.

Maybe it is a dreaded intermittant problem.

Thanks for these responses. The dark slide was not installed. It was removed and in my pocket. I think I will try Heller's tip with a second lens. Two things I neglected to mention. This happens with both the 120 and 220 back. And the AEII was set in the 'off' position, neither automatic nor manual. I was using a hand held light meter.

BTW the multiple exposure lever was in the 'up' position. The archives showed me that I could cock and activate the shutter without the film backs in place, by setting the multiexposure lever in the forward position. As far as my eye can tell, the shutter is working correctly. I don't see or hear any sticking.

The clear negative frames seem to indicate a 'no light' condition. Same result as snapping off a frame with the lens cap in place [i experimented with that yesterday]. If the winding mechanism is to blame then you it either doesn't advance the film and negatives would be darker [doubled] or if it advances two frames instead of one frame then I guess it's possible to get a 'clear' frame followed by a properly exposed frame.

Anyway I'm going to snap off a roll or two with a second lens, no winder, and maybe without the AEII. I'll post the results tomorrow. This is certainly a puzzle for a medium format newbie.

I have just recently purchased this ETRS with an AE II prism and I'm

learning its features. Several of my first rolls of b&w film have

not turned out well. Sometimes the negatives, after development, are

clear. I'm using out of date film as I explore, but today a 220 roll

I developed made me question the camera not the old film.

I'll get a nicely exposed frame, then maybe two or more clear

frames, then one or two nicely exposed frames, etc., throughout the

30 shots. So it's probably not the film or the developer. I've been

using a speed grip and tonight while taking it off, the handle part

that drives the winder fell apart. A couple of screws holding a

cover plate were missing.

Might make the winding sloppy but the fit is tight enough, I think,

that the mechanics will function.

Or could it be the 75mm lens shutter not functioning properly at

certain speeds? Today I took shots at 1/125, 1/250, and 1/500 but I

didn't keep a record per frame. The battery light illuminates when

the check button is pushed.

Is there a way to test the shutter on these lenses? Can anyone

suggest a path to pursue? I'd appreciate any help.

Marc