tim_biehn

http://www.scottkelby.com/

Lightroom 2.0 is about to be released (most likely late August) so I would suggest buying Scott Kelby's soon to be released book on 2.0. Above, is a link to pre-order his book.

Daniel, I was in the same situation as you, I ended up with the Coolscan V ED to scan all of my old negatives. I now own a 1D MK II and will NEVER go back to film. While I have had good results from the scanner, the scans simply can't compare to an original raw image from my MK II. You can see the differences at http://www.pbase.com/tbiehn , the China pics are all scanned images while the other galleries are (excluding Natalie's, my daughters images)are from my Mk II.

http://www.clarkvision.com/imagedetail/index.html

You might want to try reading this.

I am having a problem printing a 24x36 from Lightroom to a HP Designjet 130.

I can print a 18x24 with no problem but nothing happens when I try to print a

24x36. Any Ideas. Is this a memory problem. My computer is a Dell Dual Core

Precision 380 with 4gb ram.

The best that I have run across is from Michael Riechman's site. It is around $15.00 for 4.5 hrs of tutorials with Reichman and Jeff Schewe. It is broken down into several segments of HD downlaod so you can watch them as many times as you wish.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=126

Well worth the price!

If you are using a good raw converter like ACR, Lightroom etc., you can achieve a more accurate warming effect with the white balance/temperature adjustment as it IS ADJUSTABLE,not so with filters. If you are using high quality lenses, you are degrading your image by putting anything but a polarizer or perhaps Grad ND filter on. If you are concerned about protection, you get better protection using a lens hood which should ALWAYS be on. I know of very few pro's that use filters for protection. The first thing I hear at siminars is "use a polarizer, leave the other filters home".

The general thought now is that the ONLY filter that should ever be on your lens is a polarizing filter. IF you want to warm a scene, adjust your white balance to the warm side. This assumes that you are shooting raw. If you are not shooting raw,you're throwing away a lot of valuable information and you'll curse yourself later.

Try Radiantvist.com

They have a new tutorial each week that you can save to your computer for later reviewing.

Russel Brown also has some great videos for download at...

http://www.russellbrown.com/tips_tech.html

Lightroom did not go through the activation process that Photoshop goes through. I am guessing that the only reason for an internet connection is to register, which is not manditory.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Tim Biehn

I have been moving a lot of old my pics lately to DVD.

The process that works for me is to simply add a KeyWord (such as "Archive-1")pointing me to the name of the Disk that I have stored my pics on.

Simple and effective.

This a link a video tutorial that might help.

http://www.radiantvista.com/workbench/

It's the tutorial with the horses in the fore ground.

I gave up on Bridge as it is too slow. I now use ACDsee pro and would never go back. It is MUCH faster and MUCH more usefull for all of your cataloging needs. Try the trial version, you won't regret it.

http://www.acdsee.com/products/acdseepro/features/3

Adobe will be bringing out a completely redesigned product called "Lightroom". This product is designed specifically for photography. The beta version for Mac's is already out. Check out-

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/software/lightroom1.shtml

Thanks for the response.

I am using the SA-21 feeder and it does not seem to matter which end I insert it from. I even tried inserting it upside down. The older negatives that I am having trouble with do appear darker sugesting that perhaps the frame line detection could be the issue.

I do have the FH-3 and will give it a try. As a last resort I'll have to try VueScan. I have become very comortable with Nikon Scan and hate to go though another learning curve. Again, thanks for the response!

I have been using the Nikon V ED scanner now for 2 years and have

been very please with the results.

I am now into my negatives that are 15+ years old and the scanner is

rejecting some of the negative strips. I can't see any difference in

the nagatives such as irregular cuts. All negatives are Kodak so it

can't be a brand issue.

Any Ideas???

There are a lot out there. I am currently using Nero 6 which allows

Titles, Transitions and background music. I have also used Easy Media

Creator. They give you the option of creating either DVD or Video CDs.

Nick,Try Pictureline.com in Salt Lake City. Great people and a very reputable company. I purchased mine from them and their web site indicates that they have them in stock.

Matt, I had the same problem. It always occured when batch scanning negatives. It has to do with scsi driver that is not in XP. Nikon was very helpful in walking me through the driver instalation. I suggest that you contact them. I have not had any reoccurances since installing this driver.