aris_gerakis1

I have narrowed down the problem to a faulty switch in the camera. I turn the camera off. Then, after a few weeks, the camera has

turned on by itself. So, the battteries are not the problem. How does the camera turn on, beats me. How much does it cost to fix that, I

cannot even start to imagine. It is an intermittent problem, one that would take a repair person weeks to sort out.

Look at the image. On the top of the battery holder (on the right) there are only two

points of contact. Inside the battery compartment (on the left) there are four metal tabs

(kind of fuzzy). Two of them touch the contacts on top of the battery holder. The other

two do not seem to come in direct contact with current, or do they?

 

The camera is mint, no corrosion. I cleaned the contacts just in case.

 

To test the camera after purchase I used generic alkalines, then switched to Dur4ce11

alkalines. It made no difference, they all get exhausted within the first roll.<div></div>

That is interesting. I notice in the battery compartment two contacts for the batteries, and

two more contacts with no apparent reason for being there, dangerously close to the

battery contacts. What are they?

Hello, I bought a used Pentax 645N with the normal AF lens in mint condition. It eats batteries like

crazy. One set of fresh alkalines does not last a single roll. Granted, it takes me about three months to

finish one roll, but still... I turn the camera off between uses and I store it at room temperature. Is my

camera defective? The manual is of no help at all.

Because Hasselblads with focal-plane shutter do not have the noisy

light curtains at the rear of the body, are they more quiet to

operate? Can somebody post the MP3 sound file of a tripped shutter?

Thanks.

Louis is absolutely right. I was reading the serial number upside down. The true number is 1089586. Thank you John for the comment on cleaning. I suspect that the lens has some internal fungus. It is visible as a fine white net in the picture. First question: Can the lens be saved? Second, who can do the job? Third question, the body covering (leatherette or whatever) is brittle and breaks away, can anybody repair that?<div></div>

Thank you for the replies so far. What about value? The lens serial number (visible with magnifying glass) is 9896801.

I have inherited a Leica DRP that was bought new around 1950. The

serial number on the body is 689546. The 50mm/f3.5 Elmar does not

have a serial number that I can see. The camera needs a good cleaning

from being in storage. What model is this? What will be the value of

the camera after it has been serviced? Thanks.

Ross Yerkes is the man. The number is 323-256-1018 and the e-mail rossyerkescamera@yahoo.com. He may charge more than other repair persons but he performs a consistently good job and does the job right the first time. Read more at the dedicated Norita forum at http://www.delphiforums.com.

Thank you for your contribution. According to Peter Williams book and web site, the ETR-C is compatible with the AE-III prism. The MLU and TTL flash I do not need, although I am sure they are necessary to other people. I like the ETR-C concept because of lack of interchangeable backs. I use only one film anyway, and I think it makes for a more solid design (just like 2-door cars are more solid than 4-door). I have had a Mamiya 645 Super and a Hasselblad 503CXi. The back wobbles in both cameras.

The "K" back for the Mamiya Press is supposed to expose several

formats, down to 645. Because I mostly shoot transparencies for

projection, and because common transparency mounts are 6x6 and 645

only, I would like to know if anybody has used the "K" back for 645

format. The questions are: Does it shoot the 645 format horizontal or

vertical, or does the back revolve? Is there a viewfinder mask to

show the 645 area? If yes, for what lens? Thanks.

According to Mr. Williams

(http://www.williamsphotographic.com/ocr/mf/etr.html) the ETR-C

bodies have all the features of the ETRS minus interchangeable backs.

However he says that the ETRS came in two versions, metal and (later)

plastic. Did the ETR-C also come in two versions? If not, which one?

Thanks.

Does anybody know if the Norita lenses also fit the Rittreck, a 6x6

camera that was the precursor to Norita? Does anybody have any

experience with the Rittreck? Any general comments about the camera?

You may e-mail me (gerakis@msu.edu) if you do not want to post here.

Thanks, - Aris.