victoriaperelet

Alexandar,

It depends on assignment, but from I have read on this thread - for full body fashion (I assume outfit commercial) you want to use F13-F16 to have all details of outfit. And shorter focus lens 24mm is good. Model is just outfit hanger:)

Same for model agency book - they need to see details.

For studio portraits/artistic stuff you may use shallow DOF and close focusing lens (aka 100mm macro)

Unless you are doing outdoor or some unusual assignment, neither of 2 lenses is very suitable for fashion.

Victoria.

I know it's typical for photo.net there's alway someone who's more techier than others:<br>

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<i>>Canon's 45-point focusing system works at all focusing points down to f/5.6</i><br>

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From page #73 in Eos 1D Mark II broshure:<br>

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"With lenses whose maximum aperture is f/2.8 or larger,<br>

the AF points highlited in the diagram will<br>

work as cross-type sensors sensitive to both vertical<br>

and horizontal lines. The <u>remaining 38 AF points</u> will<br>

only be horizontal-line sensitive. The cross-type<br>

sensor's vertical-line sensitivity is <b>about three times<br>

higher</b> than it's horizontal-line sensitivity..."

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I don't feel like typing whole broshure - I'm sure one can find it somewhere in library.<br>

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<i>>for SLRs, is a retrofocus design, not telephoto</i><br>

For LF, there's no flying mirror - off nodal design and focusing is refered as telephoto.<br>

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See AA book "The Camera" page 154

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I can not comment on print quality. With very tricky focusing way - you mess up focus - you mess up print<br>

and vice versa it maybe perfect.

<br>Cut of the tree with moving leafs may not represent the best quality of lens<br>

AF lenses will give you more good chance to get good shot handheld

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I have no intention to make points here, I have less motivation to get here again.<br>

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Victoria.<br>

I used 24MM TS-E for few years and love this lens, most of my work is LF.

1. This lens is telephoto design (those who want to laugh � see definition of telephoto before you do) � nodal point of the lens does not match tilt axles. Traditional LF focusing methods do not work, focusing is more mix and guess.

2. Using tilts for perspective correction is pretty much obsolete in digital days � photoshop does it just fine if not better.

3. Lens is 3.5 � not all of 45 focusing points are functional (you need 2.8 for that), but still multiple focusing points are very usefull for focusing.

4. I guess the best application is using lens wide open and tilts for selective focus for product shots.

Lens is shipped with tilts opposite to shifts � taking out couple pf Philips screw and flipping it is not big deal (or you can ask your trusty Canon dealer to do it for you with factory screw driver).

Victoria.

I used 135sf for quite few years and it is very nice lens, for examples you can see some of portraits on my photo.net page.

In digital age, there�s no need for optical soft focus effect anymore.

In case if you are considering one, I�d suggest to look at 100mm F2 EF or 100mm F2.8 EF macro. Macro is a bit more expensive but much more versatile � you can�t do macro focusing in PhotoShop:).

70-200 2.8 will cover 135mm with about same quality (maybe a bit less) but it is just plain heavy for fashion studio work.

Victoria.

I used Sinar for quite awhile. For last few years I used Canon 24mm TS lens (mostly for fashion:) on digital bodies.

After LF, you have to get used to TS. Because of telephoto lens design of 24mm lens nodal point in TS lens is shifted

from lens optical center, and standard LF focusing techniques fail. Actually because of that tilt also causes visible distortions

not only DOF. 45 focusing points on d bodies help a lot.

After you get used to it 24mm TS is very nice lens.

Victoria.