keithneun

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0001Wf">Groundhog day</a>

 

<p>Try using the search feature you pinhead.</p>

 

<p>Just kidding.

Micro MV uses MPEG2 compression, which is not supported by most video editing software packages. Both Sony MicroMV offerings, the IP7 BT and IP5 lack a hotshoe, and microphone input. Personally, I'd prefer a $1600 camera to give me the option to use an external mic. I also have a hard time futzing with smaller controls and keeping a smaller camera steady (this includes Sony's smallest Mini DV cams like the DCR-PC101)

 

Some people mayl tell you the picture quality of Micro MV is not quite as good as Mini DV. I can't tell the difference on a 27" flat screen. If you want the ultimate in compactness without sacrificing picture quality, and don't mind severely limiting your editing software choices, and can live without some bells and whistles (e.g., 0 lux night shot) the Micro MV cams may be for you.

 

The IP5/7BT are really, really cool, but in the end I chose MiniDV. The PC101 was too small and flimsy feeling, so I bought the TRV27. I find it easier to hold steady, more comfortable to operate (I have fairly long fingers), and the 3.5" LCD is much nicer for informal playback.

I'm willing to help with 1,2,3,4, and 5 (I've been a heavy user of VI for the past few years. If that's disqualifies me then let's just say 1 through 4). I could swing 4-5 hours a week, perhaps more sometimes. I've been a photo.net reader and contributor since 1996, but lately not so much. Regardless of corporate status, I wouldn't mind giving a little back for the photography education I received from Philip and the likes of Glen Johnson, Don Baccus, Bob Atkins, Dan Smith, Russ Arcuri, etc.

The 17-35L has a 77mm filter thread. It's the older non-USM 20-35L that has a 72mm filter thread.

Velvia rated at ISO 40 is not a rule, but matter of taste. Your meter may vary. If you want a fraction of a stop overexposure, make sure that setting the ISO to 40 on your body actually accomplishes that.

 

For any high-contrast film that has fairly unforgiving exposure lattitude you need to be most concerned with managing the contrast of your subject. Tents, sheets, or umbrellas for closeups was mentioned above and is a good idea. Graduated neurtal density filters can be useful for landscapes where high and low contrast areas are evenly split.

 

In the end, sometimes you're better off just enjoying the scene if you don't have the right tools to make a photograph.

Philip's friend's exhibit shot with the 250-600 can be found <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/rsabin/index.html">here</a>.

Matt,

 

<p>

 

You certainly don't need 100mm of extension tubes to get the 70-200L

to 0.5x. A 25mm tube alone gets you 0.41x.

"Current" questions are those which have been posted and/or answered within the past week. If a post goes 7 days w/o a new answer it drops off the "New Answers" list... at least that's how it works in general Q&A.

Quarter life size really isn't macro, but the Canon 35/2 focuses nearly as close (0.23x).

My local park district has programs throughout the winter that include some mild "classroom" type presentations and hikes. There are also naturalist-led hikes through some of the undeveloped park areas. While I hope to become better educated, I'm thinking I'll also meet some more experienced folks who can recommend some of the better hiking/nature photography locations.

The state of Ohio is publicizing an 24 hour 800 number for up to date foilage conditions (1-800-BUCKEYE). It's answered by an operator during normal business hours, a recording otherwise.

I just flipped through book of reef photography (I can't remember title or author right now, but his images were top-notch). I thought the sound points of advice were these: 1) Use whatever equipment you're most familiar with (that means UW housing, $$$). You'll forget the pain of $400+ soon after you realize the convenience, and the extra safety of not having to fool with your gear as much. 2) Dive with a non-photog buddy. It seems even the seasoned pros get wrapped up in their work and can forget about safety. 3) Dawn, dusk, and nightime are the best times to photograph (reefs especially). Many interesting creatures remain hidden in the daylight hours. 4) Use a slightly run-down battery powered torch. Not only will it make you invisible to any skittish creatures in front of it, it also makes your choice of film speed less critical.

Is it useful to ask a general question to a group of people with a special interest and expertise in nature photography? Different audiences can give uniquely useful input on similar questions, so I guess my question really is, are the two audiences appreciably different?

 

<p>

 

It's a tricky line to draw, but given the close proximity of general q&a and the tendency for most regulars to follow both forums, I think a closer focus on nature-related topics is a good idea.

I hike with a Bogen 3205 (black ano 3001) w/3055 head. It's less than 6lbs. total. It's easy to set up and folds quickly. The 3055 is just under a pound heavier than the 3262, but I'm willing to put up with it because I like the wider platform of the hex plate and the separate pan lock. I'm 6'4" and with the center column raised I only have to tilt my head down slightly for the finder (spiked foot adaptors and the vertcal grip on my camera body give me a few precious inches). Unless you're carrying something like a 300/2.8, the Moutaineer is probably overkill. However, I'd like to play with the Gitzo sometime as everyone who owns one seems to *really* love it.