jan_eerala1

Also Arca Swiss made these kinda holders. They are very nice, the tab unlocking itself automatically when inserted in the camera, and a numbering system on the bottom.I had a couple years ago, but they began to leak light. I don't remember if did I buy them new or used, maybe they come with some used equipment and were already old. Robert White in UK (www.robertwhite.co.uk) would be a possible place to ask for. Good luck and have a nice midsummer Riitta.

And this is a detail, SIZE 4X5 MM (!)from the curtain in the picture above. Remember the diffraction limit!<div></div>

I made today a test with an 8x10 Ilfochrome Low Contrast CF1k in my camera. Because I just used some guessed orange filtering, the resultat was a little bluish. But the contrast seems similar to the EPR slide film I'm normally pulling with one stop, and looking with a 8X loupe, it's hard to see any difference in resolution. The exposure was 10 seconds with F 32. With this f-stop, there's alreay a diffraction limit of 47 lines/mm.<div></div>

No Ole, I'm really searching for the possibility to do even ULF photography, although ,in a little different way. The scanning step is a thing just degrading the quality of the picture, but it's just one reason only to search for new solutions.

Thank's to all taking me serious! I'm really looking for the same feel and information that is given us by LF and ULF. Of course any digital method will not replace the delight of just looking into a bright 8x10 screen or handling a b&w contact sheet. So take care of your Sinar Annie as of your wrist, analog and digital can live in peace and collaborate together. A collage is a different thing, this could be easy done in PS or by pics only.

How do you define large format photography? For the moment I'm only using 8x10 color films, having them scanned, and making mostly 40x50 inch lightjet prints. The digital files are from 200 to 400 Mbytes. If this could be done in some other way, eliminating the whole scan process, why wouldn't this be considered as LF photography?

Instead of making huge scans from LF films, could it be possible to

take a lot of pics with a 3-4 MB digicam and stich them all together

with stiching software? I'm not thinking of panoramas which is usual

in this case, but of ordinary views, resulting in a huge file of 200-

300 MB for Lightjet/Lambda-printing. If this could be done, it would

open a door for many very interesting applications, eg. new ways to

handle spatial spaces. Is there anyone having information available?

My Ilfochrome dealer was in contact with Ilford because of scratchy CF1k material and he was told they couldn't deliver any CF1k

anymore because they are going to change their production line to consist only one contrast grade. And this would be something near the midcontrast CLM paper. SO SAY GOODBYE to one of the finest photographics products ever made, the glossy,low contrast CF1k material from Ilford.

 

For me, this will make the end in my fifteen years career as an Ilfochrome printer, as I'm not going back to the hell of masking printing anymore.

Yeah, I found two of these old selftimers after I turned the country up and down..... The other one is functioning, and it gives me exactly 14 seconds to act. I'm using it frequently, and it's a little miracle what you can do in this time when it's a must. At least, run nearly 100 ft and take a pose. Jan, (in very remote place in Finland)<div></div>

My need is for single shot only, taken with 8x10 at distances 100-300 ft. I want some human being giving propotion to landscape scenes, and it's a lot easier if I could use myself here. The Pocket Wizard seems otherwise fine, but for this purpose only, it may be a little overkill. Could there be any economically version of this kind device? Thank's again, Jan

Any idea where can be found a long distance remote control for a view

camera ? Thank's, Jan

Paul, with the eye of an ULFhawk, take a sharp look at this medium. Now, with the combination of good print permanence, size and reasonable price, there's a possibilty w'ere going to a new era in LF printing. More comments................and thank's again.

Hello all! I posted this on the digital forum, but didn't get useful

response. I hope the LF people are more aware of the new printing

techniques.

 

The new 44-inch wide Epson 9600 Ultrachrome printer is marketed as a

fine art device that will rival Lightjet/Lambda printing. Does anyone

have real experience of this printer? Is the 2000$ RIP software a

must for speed and quality? Comments please.............thanks !

Stephen, how do you develope your color negs to achieve n-3, n-4 ?

 

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Some words about crossowers. Theoretically, a crossower cannot be

corrected by filtering. The color in the shadows are opposite to

those in the highlights. But it's possible to filter away one of the

colors, this compromiss in case the color failures are not very

strong.

Is there any place where the Riteway holders can be bought,

preferably in Europa ? I made some search on the net, but couldn't

find any address, nor address for Fidelity. Are there any other

holders made, specially in 8x10 with a safety knob like the Riteways ?

Thank's, Jan.

Sometimes in heavy weather, I have to stabilize the car with knocking

a piece of timber under the lee side. Mostly I'm having one of the

tripod legs outside the car, this gives more spatial room for

composition.

At the moment of writing this, the wind outside in the night is

yawling with some forty knots and the snow is flying horizontal.

The forecast predicts that same weather continues. Despite this, I'm

not gonna leave my 8x10 at home tomorrow. I have a van car with a

slide door, and I'm making a lot of my photography from inside this

car. When I want to take a picture, I mark the place exactly, and try

to get the car in the right position so I can have the camera used

from inside. May sound funny, but in many, many cases this works

surprisingly well. More than half of all pictures on my pages in

www.itameri.net/janeerala are taken from inside a car. And I'm sure

you can't tell which one these are. And of course, this works well in

rainy or very cold weather too. But you have to enjoy merely urban

scenes, though I've been doing this in the tundra and the windy

shores around the Northern Ice Sea. Jan

I have owned both cameras. The Linhof was my first 5x7 and I used it

about one year before I got a little tired about the weight and the

lack of front fall. In the tech cameras you have to use the drop bed

function instead of lens fall, which I felt a little messy to use.

Then I found in Sweden a lovely Nagaoka, so lightweight,that I could

carry it in the pocket of my winterjacket. Well, this was otherwise

nice, but because the lack of some sturdiness I bought a new Tachi.

This was of rosewood,stainless steel knobs,and very stable, but not

any lightweighter as the 4x5 and 8x10 Tachiis I've had. In my mind it

is a very good camera, and I stopped using it only because I moved up

to 8x10. I have always liked the fine fresnels of the Tachihara, and

in fact, I have a Tachi fresnel mounted on my Phillips now. If you

have the habit of shooting scenes that constantly needs a lot of fall

(as I do )and want a rugged camera for nature/outdoor use, take the

Tachi. In an urban mileu I would choose the tech, because of people

recognicing it for a camera,and not any funny joke. But both cameras

are ecxellent tools, and I don't think you can't do any big miss

whichever you choose. Jan

I have the same experience with the biggest pro-lab in Finland with

8x10 Portra. I can't find any other reason that when the film comes

out from the developer in a dip and dunk machine, the developer flows

along the film and causes the problem. The neg process C-41 is short

timed and therefore rather aggressive. I'm not sure if this couldn't

occure with smaller, eg. 4x5 film too. Now I'm searhing for another

lab.

Jan

Duplicate film is made in 100ft rolls and 70 mm wide. Before I bought

a 70 mm duplicator I duplicated slides with an enlarger and a little

easel that I made with a 6x9 (or 6x7, how you want) frame. The easel

was protected by both sides with some pieces of cardboards so the

flare light from the enlarger shouldn't fog the film. I forwarded the

film by hand the needed amount. It all worked fine and was in fact

very easy to do when there was made many dupes from the same slide.

The task is to calibrate the dupefilm, you have to search and bracket

for the right speed and color.

Yaakov, are you using some metol based developer? If so, switch over

to phenidon based. The metol is toxic and very fast allergizing. It's

more than fifteen years I used MQ developer, but still today if I

come into a place where it's used, I'm beginning to feel ill. I'm

making BW more seldom now, but when I do, Iuse Ilford PQ developer.

For most modern color films the reciprocity factor will be only about

50 percent or less with a 2 second exposure. I hope it would be more,

because, with longer exposure the latitude would be wider.

 

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And Pete, why didn't you suggest me to hire an inuit mumbling; one

icebear, two icebears...

...the color is kind of washed out and the contrast is not great...

what a beautiful sound! Just what I suspected a little. Peter, is it

otherwise OK? Is the development uniform and without scratches and

bubbles?

Well, I think I'll wait a little before joining the club...it seems a

little exclusive to me, specially as I am located in Finland

(neighbour to Sibiria) and ebay operates mostly in USA. But one never

knows...so I'll make still one question: can you comment the quality

or properties of the color film in some way? And thank's again for a

great response! Jan

May I use the opportunity to ask what do I need to take 8x10

Polaroids? I found there's a color film type 809 (and 809 bulk). I

guess I need somekind of a holder/processor. Is the holder and

processor one unit? What is the quality of this film? Anyone having

real experiencies? Thank's in forward, Jan.