per__ystein_pettersen

Steve,

Try this: Press and hold SPOT and CARD buttons and move power switch from LOCK to ON.

That should disable the 'no lens' shutter lock.

Rgds PerOP

KEH (www.keh.com) has a used 'MINOLTA AUTOMETER III (N) INSTRUCTION BOOK' for which they will charge you $9.

Look under 'Light Meters' and then 'Light Meter Instructions'

Rgds PerØ

The 1000s use the standard cable release thread that has been around since Kodak introduced the Brownie over 100 years ago.... No adapters or other proprietary devices are needed.

Rgds PerO

Slow X-sync is one of the drawbacks with medium format film and focal-plane shutters. The shutter has a much larger area and longer distance to cover than with 35mm, hence it will be bigger/heavier and will have to resort to "curtain-slith" exposure at longer times.

Even the newest Mamiya 645AFD can't do better than 1/125 with the focal plane shutter.

This is one of the reasons most MF-gear use L/S lenses. With M645 you at least have a choice.

A 'Excellent' grade Mamiya 70mm LS is only $199 at www.KEH.com.

The 645 Series offers N/L leaf shutter lenses in the 55mm, 80mm and 150mm focal length for high synch speeds to 1/500 second.

Flash is triggered by a PC-socket on the lens.

IIRC there are older 70mm LS lenses on the used market as well.

Without an L/S lens, you are left with the 1/60s X-sync on the body.

Regards PerO

The text below is from this site:

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/minoltaxd711/index.htm

"Both "O" and "B" shutter settings are mechanically controlled. With either of these letters aligned with the index, you can view, make exposures, and advance film even though batteries are unserviceable or completely lacking. Turning the shutter speed dial (in any mode setting) to align "O" with the index provides a fixed shutter speed of 1/100 sec. for synchronized exposure with electronic flash or existing continuous light. "O" will appear at the bottom right in the finder frame at this setting and over-range LED will light to indicate mechanical shutter-speed operation."

It applies to XD7/11, but I'm pretty sure the '5' operate in the same way.

Regards PerO

Of course you can use it! There is an adapter that will work. Unfortunately you'll loose automatic aperture, there is an optical element that might reduce image quality and AS won't work!

You can get it at B&H.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=70646&is=REG

But you might want to reconsider... a 50/1,4 can be used with AS, which typically give you 2-3 extra stops. So the low light abillity should be better than the 58/1.2.

Rgds PerOP

According to KM, the shutter is a new design developed to integrate with the AS functionality. Top speed and flash sync are engineering compromises due to the nature of the AS mechanism. I'm not an engineer and not able to account for the limitations of the design, but I can imagine that there are some challenges to be met with all those moving parts operating reliably within tight tolerances in such close proximity.

Anyway, It's definetly not as easy as just using the old 5 shutter to keep costs down...

I'm not sure about the x-700, but this trick has always worked with my X-series Minoltas:

Tighten the film with the rewind knob but don't build up tension. Holding the rewind knob still, push the little rewind release button and advance one frame. This should cock the shutter without advancing the film. It might take some practice runs to be able to keep the film perfectly in place during this operation.

I've got both types, and I find that I use the 1000s most of the time. I usually prefer the WL-finder and use a handheld meter. If you want camera metering and use the prism, the 'E' wins hands down, as the old metered prisms for the 1000s can be quite unreliable.

Why not buy both? I've overcome the drawback of no interchangeable backs using inexpensive 1000s bodies instead - a "excellent" 1000s body is cheaper than a "excellent" Hasselblad back at KEH!

I've got the exact same light leak in my XG-M. If you inspect the shutter curtain, you might find a thin vertical line going straight through it. I'm not sure, but I think it is caused by normal wear and tear. I've also found that if I change lenses in situations where the light is bright (eg. sunshine) I get a purple streak across the film in the same position as the stripe in the curtain. If I leave the lens on, or make sure it is fairly dark when i swap, there are no problems. This might be the rason why you have never noticed the streak before.

I think the only remedy is to replace the shutter curtain (fairly expensive), and as the XG-M is my second backup camera, I just live with it...

Hi!

In my original Mamiya m645 extension ring set the ring No.3-S and ring No.2 has spring loaded aperture linkages. The ring No.1 has no spring.

Nah, I've often loaded my Mamiyas with the shutter cocked, and I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter in this case. They are usually pretty fool-proof when it comes to loading. You might have a faulty insert (try swapping if you have the possibility). Although the only time I've seen this happen on a regular basis is with a camera with a worn-out winding mechanism, as stated above.

Lets hope it's a freak incident and let us know how you fare with the Ilford rolls.

This might not apply in you case. However:

This happened to one of my M645's as well (Heavily used and abused over 20+ years). Even if i advanced to '1' on the counter. It CAN be an early warning that the clutch-mechanism in the film advance system is beginning to fail. Another sign is that the frames are unevenly spaced. The problem might be cured temporarily by a CLA, but the mechanism will fail, and the fix involves changing the rear subframe.

If your frames are unevenly spaced, you might start looking for a clean used M645 now, it is sure to be cheaper than repairing the old body.

You do not need to buy another camera or change system to accomodate your need for flash sync.

You can have higher flash sync with your 645E. Mamiya offers new 55mm and 150mm leaf shutter lenses and there is also a 70mm that can be found used. All of them will sync up to 1/500 sec.

And if you really need interchangable backs and prisms there are the Mamiya 645 Super and Pro/Pro TL. All of them can be bought quite cheap on the used marked. Get a Pro if you can, the newer the better. It will use the same accessories and lenses as the 645E.

Hmmm... A quick look in the fridge reveals

- 3 rolls of Fuji Acros

- 5 rolls of Kodak T-Max 100

- 4 rolls of Ilford Delta 100

- 1 roll of Fuji Velvia

- 1 roll of Fuji Provia

- 4 rolls of Kodak E100VS

I don't think I know what I'll be missing - anything I should rush out and buy while stocks last??

--POP