maylon_roberts

<p>OK. To me it is creepy, unflattering, and not pleasant to look at. At first glance it looks like the nose has a deep furrow across the top, (but it's really the shadow from the eyelashes) and so it makes the baby look evil. The fist over the mouth is also strange. I would steer away from clothing with conspicuous brand names on them; it's distracting and prevents it from appearing timeless.<br>

Getting the hand away from the mouth and the shadow off the brow/nose would improve things quite a bit.</p>

<p>this is spam</p>

<p>To me this is a fascinating set of photos! To me they all (mostly) have so much in common. They all have the same color palette... all the same temperature. Also they all seem to have a Napoleon Dynamite look to them-- lots of retro props, dated interiors and unconventional-looking, working-class people. Most of the subjects appear as if they have either never seen a camera before or are missing parts of their brains. I know that sounds mean, but I just can't think of another way to describe that look.</p>

<p>Everything that you are describing so far is perfectly normal. Turning the aperture ring alone, mounted or unmounted, will not open or close the aperture blades. You will need to engage the DOF preview slide on the lens to see the blades go in and out. And no, purchasing another 4 new lenses from KEH is not a bad idea, just relax and enjoy your new gear. </p>

<p>Hi Mike, sorry to hear you are having trouble with the RZ67. I own the same camera. That process you describe does sound strange. It's difficult to know where to start. Here are some things I would check:<br>

1) on the right-hand side of the camera (as you are behind it) make sure that the switch on the side is in the straight up position-- <i>not</i> on the "R" or the "M" positions.<br>

2) Do you have a fresh battery in the camera?<br>

3) Look at the button on the front that you use to fire the shutter. There are three positions around this button. It should be set to the middle (white dot) position.<br>

4) Look on the barrel of your lens and find the socket for screwing in a cable release. In normal operation this silver rim of the socket is level with the surrounding black housing. If this rim is raised up (there might even be a red stripe visible) your lens and camera "thinks" that it's in mirror lock-up mode. For right now you don't want that. Ordinarily when you screw in a cable release on the lens the metal rim rides up slightly, but when the cable release is unscrewed the rim will retract as the the cable release is being unscrewed. But sometimes it gets "stuck" in the extended position anyway. If this has happened try screwing in a cable release into the lens and unscrewing it again to make the rim go back down.<br>

....<br>

If none of the above applies to you try this:<br>

Insert the darkslide into the 120 back. Remove the back from the camera. Remove the lens from the camera. Look at the lens. Can you see through it? i.e. is its shutter cocked? If it's cocked you should see right through the barrel. If it is not cocked,try cocking it by pushing down and rotating the pins on the mount. (It shows you how to do that in the manual, I think) <br>

You said you have film loaded in the back. Does the counter have a number on it yet. If not, turn the knob until you can't turn it anymore.<br>

Look at your now-naked camera body. Can you see all the way through it? If you can you need to cock the mirror. use the cocking lever on the side. Now mount the lens. Now mount the 120 back. Remove the dark slide. Try pressing the cocking lever... it may move a little bit, but not much... you should feel it catch. If you are able to move the cocking lever freely there is something wrong.<br>

OK, from where we left off... now try pressing the button to fire the camera. What happens? It should "take the picture". The view in the waistlevel-finder should now be blank. If you see any little LEDS in the viewfinder something is wrong. To prepare the camera to take the next picture all you should need to do is press the cocking lever all the way forward and down. Fire off another shot...<br>

Any help?</p>

<p> </p>

Help yourself first. No, your questions are not interesting.

You are not helpless. Do your own research. Asking these questions in this forum is not doing your own research. I can tell you haven't done any just from the questions you've asked.

It doesn't work that way. You can get one 15mm lens that is a fish-eye and another 15mm lens that is just a super-wide angle. A wide angle lens is rectilinear, while a fish-eye isn't. A fish-eye is only a fish-eye if it says it's a fish-eye.

No, no, and no.

You said that your prints didn't seem sharp...

don't look at your prints, look at the negs. Unsharp prints can be the result of improper printing. Still, unsharp negs can be the result of any number of things, the least of which I would think would be backfocusing. I have never heard of such a problem outside of the realm of autofocus cameras.

 

Were you using a tripod? how 'bout a split-screen? It's easy to make focusing errors without one.

I have noticed that there are at least two versions (no.1 and no.2)

of rubber hoods for focal lengths 127-250mm. I have also noticed

that the front element of the newer (W-N) version of the 180 is more

deeply recessed than the older versions.

 

What is the difference between these two hoods?

Which hood do I need for my W-N version 180mm lens?

 

Thanks.

I had nearly the same thing happen to me. I basicly replaced what i had taken. I'd say keep on shooting slides.

 

Nikon F3HP and 5 prime lenses of your choice.

The artifacts that are most detrimental to the image are in the 3rd (red) channel. For what is worth I did try some Fourier analysis in ERDAS IMAGINE 8.7.2 (Fast Fouier Transform, editing, Inverse Transform), but the noise is not as periodic as it would need to be in order to remove it. I'm gonna keep on trying just out of curiosity though.

 

check out www.gis.leica-geosystems.com if you want to learn about the software that i use.

"How does my 24mm AI stand up to modern alternatives?"

 

very, very well. The 28mm AIS is better, though.

 

"Are the wide angle zooms of the last few years better than prime lens?"

 

No.They're probably worse- particularly in the price range you mentioned. If you don't need autofocus the old, manual primes are the way to go.

Pentax 67

 

http://www.keh.com/shop/class.cfm?bid=PX&sid=newused&crid=10270127

 

You'll love it.

I am begining to wonder if you people ever bother to read the posts. The guy said specificly...

 

"I want to clarify again I am not looking for "pro-class equipment" to make me a "pro" I just wnat quality equpment and obviously cannot afford to buy and try every camera out there..."

 

And you folks respond with the same ol' "it's not the camera, stupid...pro equipment won't make you a pro" response.

 

One of you even accused this guy of not saying what it is that his current camera is lacking even though he said quote "single wheel I use to control Apeture and shutter speed in manual mode is a little annoying..."

 

Michael, if I were you I would look into the Mamiya 645 line of cameras and move out of 35mm. These cameras are everywhere used- entire systems for less than $1000. Go to the Mamiya website to see how these camera can also shoot digital with a digital back.

Not really.

 

If that didn't answer your question, read on...

The best way to look silly is to get a Nikon F100 and stick a third party lens (Sigma, Tamron...)on it. Better to get the cheaper body and spend the real money on a good lens.

 

When you say perform do you mean optical performance? They will be the same regardless of camera you use. If you mean focusing speed, the camera body might make a difference.

People get third party lenses like Sigma because they can't afford the name brand version of the lens. Also third party lenses don't hold their value nearly as well as the name brand versions. If you ever want to sell it, you will get nothing for your Sigma.

Don't promote the false economy of third party lenses.

I would vote NO on the Keiv and YES on the Pentax 67. With your budget you can get an older Pentax 67 body and a couple lenses at KEH.com. The Pentax 67 and its lenses are highly regarded at any price and very high quality.

 

The TLR suggestions (Rolleicord -flex) would be good if you only had $200 to spend or something... you can do better.

"nothing more than a metal box with film in it"

 

if you're gonna go that route,...

your final images are nothing more than pieces of paper or pixel brightness values.

"Cameras are simply tools"

 

...and I could say the same about some of you.

 

It's a perfectly valid question, like it or not.

There is nothing wrong with having sentimental feelings for a camera. Is your grandfather's watch just a "tool" that keeps time? Is that antique siverware that belonged to your mother just a set of "tools" to eat food? No, these things have meaning beyond pure utility. This is not a difficult concept.

according to this chart, it's not gonna work.

 

http://www.ltlimagery.com/resolution.html#mfscanresolutionchart

 

You'd need either a larger format, higher scan res, or lower than 300 dpi print quality.

No, they aren't interchangeable.

The eye-level prism is a must for me, but I never use the AE. There is no advantage to having the AE version for what you are doing.

 

I have no idea how some of you folks are holding your cameras, but I have no trouble hand-holding my RZ with the eye-level prism.

Akira- this is a great little thing to have. Your pictures will be sharper because you won't be jabbing into the camera as much.

It's made of rubber and metal- the metal part screws in and the rubber part is where you press. You can get them at KEH.com or from adorama.com.

"scrap book of my partner's pregnancy/birth"

 

Your "partner?"

 

...you mean like for doubles tennis? That's precious.

 

The pics look fine.

I have heard more complaints about the 165mm than the other two. The great thing about P67 lenses is that they are such a great value- why not get both the 135 and the 200?

 

Enjoy.

Etaf-

 

I'm sure you'll like the features of the MZ-S, but it won't have the professional feel or durability of your legendary LX. If I were you, I would sell off the autofocus lenses and, get another good used LX and a handfull of the highly regarded old K lenses.

 

another thing..

 

"i love my setup and dont want to part with film for now. i want to wait before i go digital."

 

If you don't want to part with film now, why would you want to "go digital" at a later time? The set-up that you are happy with is not changing and certainly not being made any worse by the rise of digital. You may think that everyone else is "going digital" doesn't mean it's really true, and certainly doesn't mean that you have to do the same. I would urge you not to fall victim to the brainwashing that everyone must "go digital" because film is "on its way out." This is all nonsense. Use what makes you happy.

 

 

Anyhow, enjoy your travels