passakorn_pananont

I am looking for a better lens case for my 80-400 VR. Lowepro Lenscase

3 is too small (thanks to the stupid tripod bracket!) and CL5 is way too

big. I couldn't find the CL 4 in the store, but I doubt it would fit as the

diameter is the same as CL3.

Are there any better options from other company (Tamrac, Tenba, etc)

out there? I don't think Nikon's case will survive much longer.

Thanks, Ake

When is a good time to go photograph wildflowers in Alaska?

I am arriving at Fairbanks last week of May and have until June 8 to

tralvel around before I will settle in at Denali Nat'd Park until June 22.

Is this a good timing for wildflowers? I can move my time up and down

a bit.

Also where/when is a prime spots for wildflowers in Alaska? I will rent a

car from Fairbanks and drive around. Juneau seems to be out of reach

for me unless I fly in.

Thanks,

Ake

Depending on if you shoot hand held or tripod. 70-200 F4 is a superp lens but it will force you to use tripod most of the time or shoot at max. aperture. If it were me I would take 24 mm and 70-200mm and 500D and either 1.4X or 2X. (Canon 1.4X should be better than tamron 2X for the image quality, plus a light tripod.

ake

I was there (Maroon Bells) about the same time (Sep18-29). There was a relatively fast progress within one week.

About moving it to far right to avoid the shadow, if you do the opposite way, move it to the far left, you will also get pretty good result as the foreground alpines were out of shadow and if you set you composition carefully you can get the alpines in front of most of the shadowed background. I got a pretty good result. Still you have to wait until 10-10:30am to get the light on the alpines.

I got interesting story while I was there.

I was at the lake pretty much the first one (~5 am) everyday and usually set up the tripod by the big log (if you know what I mean). One time a big group of people came in about 6:30am and they set the tripod on the other side of the lake. All of the sudden, one guy walked up to me and told me that I was in thier frame and ask if I can lower myself when they yell! How about that!!

Another one is that there was a group of large format photograpers (real pro or wanna be pro type, I don't know). One guy set 3 feet parameter around him and yell at everyone that crossed the perimeter. Many amateurs got yelled by him. This guy was a real jerk IMO (If you read this thread, yes I am talking about you.) He set a very low standard for the photographers. No wonder why many people don't like photograpers as they are rude (I even got a finger a few times while taking photos along the road side just simply I looked like a pro, not becase I caused any problem on the road.).

I think we (photographers) should be aware that this is a public land and people can go anywhere they want. I think we should be greatful that most of the time they try to get out of our way. If you know the place you will notice that most of the tourists barely walk along the shore lake as they were afraid to be yelled at by photographer or they were simply just courteous to the photographers. Still some photographers do not know what enough is enough means.

Being serious to get a good photo is one thing, but be rude and selfish to others just to get that photo.. to me is unacceptable.

Just my thought.

Passakorn

I read an article by a well known outdoor photographer which stated

that he modified the PL filter and fit it into the cokin adaptor ring

and cut the slots so that the filter holder has only 1 slot. By doing

this he could use the cokin set up with very wide angle lens (i.e. 17-

35mm).

My question is that if I put the warming filter right on the top of

the PL filter (so both filter attatchedly stack next to each other.),

will it cause any problem? Usually when we stack filter there is a

little room between the two.

I don�t worry about that they will scratch each other b/c they will

be permanently fixed and will move together if they need to be

rotated.

I know that the simple solution is to get a warming PL, but the price

different is quite large between warming PL and a PL plus a warming

filter.

Anyone has done this before? Any input is really appreciated.

Passakorn

PS Yesterday, I posted about using 9 rechargeable batteries with the

F5, but it was zapped to general forum. I think it�s interesting for

F5 user who has battery problem.

Did you try combining both PL and a warming filter? It works great for me, especially PL + 81B. I don't think you would get anything like you see through the sunglasses though. I have a nikon sunglasses that have a PL + Gold lens so I think I understand what you meant. Well.. maybe you can get it with an intensifier filter if you can live with a slightly overall color cast in you picture.

Basically, Moose filter is a PL + a warming filter so I guess you should get more or less the same result with PL + warming filter on your own. I think it's worth a try uless you already did.

Passakorn

I had the same problem.. I sent it in and keep bugging them to send it back to me. Finally I got it back, total time was about 2 weeks.

I think if you told them when exactly you will need it back they will try to comply your need.

Has anyone tried to ordered from Robert in England before. Could anyone give me some idea about the duty fees for photographic equipment and shipping cost? IS it worth doing it or it's better order from inside the US. I am in US.

Thanks

Passakorn

I 've been reading threads (including search) here for a while, but

didn't find the same thing that I encounter here.:

I would like to get a 400 lens for general wildlife photo

including birds (I know it's too short, but good start for me

, anyway) for my F5, but can't afford much. So my choice is

1. go with a third party 400 lens like Tokina or Sigma.

2. get a Nikon AF 300 F4 ED-IF plus 1.4X converter.

Because AF is the main concern for me, so both TC14b and TC14E is out

of question. Now it comes down to Sigma AF APO 1.4X and Tampron AF

1.4X Pro series. (Both are new models)

Has any one uses these TC on the 300 F4 before? I would like to know

about the quality of the image and how good it focuses with these

combo.

Which choice is better, 1 or 2? Even though I heard lots of good thing

about 300 F4 with TC 1.4X (TC14b), but never heard about the result of

this lens with either Sigma or Tamron TCs compare to a Sigma or Tokina

400 lens itself.

If you think the 300 plus TC would be better, which TC should I go

for, Sigma or Tamron? I may not have a chance to test it before I buy

so the real experiences from the filed users would be very useful

Thanks a lot for all suggestions,

Passakorn

The situation I had in mind is when I want to take a landscape photo such as I am on the top of the mountain and want to take photo of another peak. The distance should be almost infinity (no closer foreground). Usually I use the smallest aperture all the time for the maximum DOF. It just crossed my mind recently if it's worth doing it all the time for the max. DOF. Actually, I use zoom lens (70-300ED), but I think that the general rule should apply for all lens (except fare problem, I guess).

My point is that is there much different in DOF from aperture when you shoot with the long lens focusing almost/at infinitity. For example, how much different of DOF would be at F11 and F32 when focusing to infinite. Thanks for Bob' number, but I think it's a bit difficult to use when focusing lens because it will be almost infinite. I know most of us may say why not use DOF preview. I used it a lot, but sometimes it's a bit difficult to see through the preview when you focus at infinity and use the small aperture. I am just looking for some real experience result in the field.

Thanks for all answers/comments

Passakorn

Pros usually recommend that for the maximum depth of filed, one should

use very small aperture. What about when using a long lens eg. 300 mm

for shooting landscape. Is this still true? When I loook at the depth

of filed chart for the long lens, aperture seems to effect very little

on DOF because long lens has very limit DOF.

So my question is that is there any logical reason to use very small

aperture eg F16 and smaller when using long lens (except for special

purpose like for very low shutter speed effect.) for shooting

landscape?

Most of the lens reviewer/testers show that most lens yield the

maximum sharpness at 1 or 2 stop down from the maximum F-stop (I mean

small number like F 1.4 for example.)

So I can't figure out when/why we need to use very small aperture for

the

long lens. Theoretically, F8 or F 11 would yield the best result for

300mm F4 lens most of the time. Am I understanding this correctly?

Thanks,

Passakorn

Has anyone expreienced with these 340 and 345 gitzo tripod? I want to

get a 345 because it's much shorter (5") and much easier to

carry/transport. However, I am concerned a bit about the stability.

The 345 has 4 leg sections compared to 3 of the 340. Theoretically, 3

section should have more stability because the bottom section will be

bigger than the 4 sections. I would like to get more info from the

real experience in the filed. Could anyone tell me about the 345..

like how good is it..is it stable enough for F5 with 300 mm lens.? I

will use it with a bogen 3410 head.

Thanks a lot for any comments on this