joseph_gledhill
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Posts posted by joseph_gledhill
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I am after a small, light and inconspicuous combo to carry everywhere. I am considering either the Olympus pen f with Panasonic 20mm 1.7 pancake or fuji xe3 with 27mm 2.8 pancake. Ibis vs a larger sensor. I'm tempted to go for the fuji but am reluctant due to no ibis. Is ibis a deal breaker/maker for you?
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Fuji xe3 with 27mm 2.8 vs olympus pen f with Panasonic 20mm 1.7. I am after a small and light outfit to carry everywhere. A larger sensor vs ibis - which would you go for? I can't decide.
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<p>Hello, does anyone know if the sensor shift stabilization works in video mode on the Panasonic GX7? I heard somewhere it does not - strange if that is the case as, in the Olympus EP5, it works a treat.</p>
<p>Many thanks.</p>
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<p>I am trying to decide between these two lenses for my D7000. The 1.8 is lighter (by 100g), cheaper (by 120GBP) and, according to MTF and initial tests, sharper. I also hear that, due to the manual focus ring being less sensitive/precise than the 1.4, the focus is a bit faster? Anyway, I may be splitting hairs with the last one but, all in all, the 1.8 seems more appealing on many fronts. However, the 1.4 has 9 aperture blades. Does this have a significant advantage over the 1.8 or are they pretty much indistinguishable? Has anyone purchased the 1.4 just for this reason? I have seen images from the two taken wide open of lights against a dark background to record the exact shapes of the aperture opening but is it an issue? If the two lenses both shot a portrait against neutral tones of foilage without any highlights would the bokeh tell one from the other? I also heard somewhere that, stopped down to the same aperture, the 1.4 bokeh would be more detailed. Can any one explain why? Many thanks for your time. Oh... come on Nikon, release a new AF-S 85mm 1.8G (or even better, an AF-S 100mm f2G) this August pleeeeeeease!!!</p>
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<p>What advantage is there in purchasing the AF-S 50mm 1.4 over the new AF-S 50mm 1.8? Do the 9 rounded aperture blades of the 1.4 make a difference? Many thanks.</p>
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<p>It never surprises me that whenever a new lens is released nowadays it is greeted with critisism. The AF-S 35mm 1.8, AF-S 50mm 1.4 and the recently released AF-S 85mm 3.5 just to name a few. There must be a usual group of people who love to jump on the bandwagon to have a good moan simply because the lens is not a lens they want. Here is some advice - DON'T BUY IT THEN! Instead of purchasing lenses you can barely afford just to display them on your bedroom shelf to gaze at all evening go out and do something productive. Maybe even get a hobby. The three lenses I have mentioned are absolutely cracking lenses which simply cannot be faulted. I was on the verge of purchasing the AF-S 105mm 2.8 until the Af-S 85mm 3.5 was announced. Yes I prefer the more compressed image of the 105mm but the size and weight of the 85mm is a huge attraction in my book. These are the only two significant differences between the two lenses. Focal length vs weight - it's a tough one and I can't decide. I do a bit of everything - nature and portraits. I can see the image looking more asthetically pleasing from the 105mm but the weight is a real pain when you are tired and travelling (from experience). Thanks guys! </p>
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<p>When a new lens is announced that you want do you purchase it as soon as it is released or wait in the hope that the same lens a year later will give a better performance? I want to buy the soon to be released AF-S 85mm 3.5 and just wandered if there were any issues with new lenses. Many thanks.</p>
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<p>Hello. I am trying to convert my old Gitzo G1297 Basalt tripod to ground level shooting. Gitzo seem to have replaced the old short centre columns with a newer ground level kit which for me is too expensive. However it looks like you can just buy the disk separately without the column for a cheaper price. It is called the GS2320K but, by looking at the pictures, I cannot figure out how this would connect to the tripod - does anyone know? Many thanks.</p>
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<p>Is there a problem in using the 105mm Micro VR on a D90 body considering the lens is heavier than the body? The lens does not have a tripod mount so is it ok to put this set up on a tripod via the camera mount? Many thanks.</p>
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<p>How does the AF speed and noise of the Tamron 90mm (with motor) and Tokina 100mm compare to each other? Is one faster and quieter than the other? I would use them on a D90. Many thanks.</p>
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<p>Picture the scenario: I want to take a photo of a person who is in full sunlight outdoors. They are wearing a hat so their face is in shadow. I set the camera (D90) to expose the scene correctly for sunlight - which will require a fast shutter speed - and use fill in flash (SB-400) to illuminate the face. My problem: with the optional flash attatched the camera settings are automatically overidden and the fastest shutter speed of 1/200 sec is set. This means the shutter speed is too slow for sunlight and the scene will be over exposed. Is there anything I can do? Am I missing something? Surely I can balance daylight exposure with fill in flash?</p>
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<p>At macro distances and with lens hoods off, does anyone know if the SB-400 flash with diffuser will illuminate the subject mounted on a D90 using the AF-S 60mm and AF-S 105mm lenses or will they cast a shadow?</p>
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Tamron 90mm
in Nikon
<p>Does anyone know what type of motor is in the new Tamron 90mm f/2.8 Macro? Is it a ring type or micro type motor and how does it compare to the Nikon AF-S 105mm in terms of noise and speed? Many thanks.</p> -
<p>Sorry, I meant to type SWM instead of AF-S. What type of motor does it use?</p>
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<p>Does anyone use the new Tamron 90mm f/2.8 Macro with motor on a D90? If so, how does the sound and speed compare to old non motor lens and indeed to AF-S lenses? I have heard people say the old lens was slow and noisy which I can understand and other people say the new version is quiet and comparable to AF-S. By speed I mean at non macro distances ie for portraits. Thanks guys.</p>
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<p>Does anyone know if 'The Puffer Diffuser' will work with macro photography - specifically the Tamron 90mm - or will the lens still cast a shadow over the subject? I know the lens will cast a shadow from the direct flash of the cameras pop up but will this little device 'wrap' the light around the subject and gently illuminate it? If not, I am considering the Nikon SB-400 as an alternative. I want to travel as small and light as possible. Would this work mounted on the D90 or would I need to use a flash cord? Many thanks.</p>
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<p>Hi. I would like to use a small, portable flash unit for handheld close-up photography. I have a D90 and 105mm micro and would like the flash to be positioned just above the end of the lens. I want to buy the SB-400 as this is all I need and is small and light. Obviously, for close-ups, the lens would cast a shadow if the flash is on the hotshoe. Is it possible to just hold it above the lens or fix it with a band? Would the SB-600 be better? I have seen a photo where it was mounted on the hotshoe of a flash cord - which in turn was mounted on the cameras hotshoe - and it could bend so the flash was directly over the lens. Any suggestions?</p>
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Wow, I did not expect to be greated with such opposition to switching brands! I do not have any Canon gear so am starting from scratch again after a break. If I could afford a 5D mark II I would buy one but I cannot. Prices in the UK are much more expensive. So my options are the next cameras down. The 40D/50D cameras do not have 100% viewfinders which is important for me - the D300 does. Anything less than 100% is an issue for me. I want a reliable, affordable and modern 50mm prime. Nikon has just produced one. Canon has an old version with micro USM that shakes and is not too reliable. I do not worship either company just want a set up that I am comfortable with. If I could get those features with Canon I would stay with them as I am familiar with their products but Nikon seems to have got peoples attention in recent years.
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I have been a Canon shooter all my life but am on the verge of switching to Nikon. Never shot Nikon before. The
100% viewfinder of the D300 and the new AF-S 50mm temp me (and maybe the 105mm VR). I am after a wider lens to
act as a "standard" lens. I was considering the 35mm f/2 (compact and light) and 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5
(flexibility). I then noticed the new 16-85mm lens. I would mostly use these lenses up to 50mm then switch to
primes. The small apertures of the zooms are not an issue as I would stop down anyway. How do the three lenses
compare at 35mm? Is the sharpness of the two zooms similar to each other? If so, I may opt for the smaller and
lighter one. Many thanks.
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What about the Tokina 35mm f/2.8 macro?
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Thanks for your responses guys. What appeals to me is, of course, the price and the fact that I don't need to use a lens hood due to the front element being so far recessed. From the reviews I have read it seems the AF is not as fast as USM (but still good) but more accurate than Canon's. However how quiet is it? I would not use the 35mm for macro - I would be interested in it for it's 35mm focal length because the other options such as the Sigma 30mm and Canon 28mm seem to have got bad reviews - photozone etc.
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Could anybody tell me how well the Tokina 100mm f/2.8 macro performs? I have
found a good price (200GBP) on a brand new copy and am tempted. How does the
optical quality and AF speed and sound compare to the Canon. Does anybody know
anything about the Tokina 35mm macro? I would use both of these on a 40D. Many
thanks.
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If I am taking a landscape shot on a tripod with my 40D, is there anyway I can
focus on a specific spot, recompose, then fire the shutter without it
refocussing? I do not have a shutter release cable and wanted to use the self
timer to avoid camera shake. Is there a way to focus using one button then fire
the shutter using a different button without that button activating AF? How do
you guys do it? Many thanks.
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Just received my 40D + 50mm 1.4 lens which I will use for general portraits.
With the crop factor, I was delighted to see how close I can frame a shot. I
can fill the frame with something the size of a CD. However, for occasional
"close up" photography, the working distance is to small (casts shadows and can
be intimidating for insects). Glad I never brought the 60mm macro. I always
thought I would have to buy the 100mm macro but was always reluctant to do so
(do not want the size or weight - IMHO). I have always been keen on the 100mm
f2 (had it for film). If this gets me close enough (for something the size of a
peacock butterfly) then that is good enough for me. The lens is small, sharp,
light, portable and gives a good compression and bokeh effect. If I bought the
100mm macro my worry is I would rarely use it at "macro" distances. So, my
question is, the 100mm f2 has a magnification of 0.14x. With a crop sensor,
what sort of field of view/effective magnification could I achieve? Would it be
more than the 50mm on a crop? (If so, that will do me). Sorry, I don't know
how to work that out. Thanks.
Pen F vs EM 5III
in Olympus
Posted