thebigfish

Thanks. Just one question, Premium Glossy Paper is not listed as a 2100 paper. Semi-

glossy is listed as are several others. According to Epson helpline the 2100 can only

take paper up to 250 gm and not the Premium Glossy. I tried to use a generic paper

and it absolutely failed. But then was told that the Premium Glossy wouldn't work. Is

this your experience?

Hi to all, I bought an Epson 2100 (the 2200) and have been, as it seems everyone is,

frustrated by the magenta cast (and sometimes green cast)! But after many hours of

experimenting I finally seem to have licked the problem. 1) First of all, I calibrated my

monitor using the internal calibration system in Mac OS without the use of a spider. It

seems pretty well-calibrated. 2) I went to color settings and followed the instructions

supplied in http://www.photoexpert.epson.co.uk/UK/EXPERTISE/

how_to_icc_page1.htm This means choosing Adobe RGB 1998 for the workspace and

NOT your monitor calibration. Don't confuse the two. The only change I made was

desaturating the monitor by 20%. I did this because I found that my prints are always

much less saturated than the beautiful image I see on the screen. 3) Then I cut an A4

sheet into little 10X15s and started making tests (this after wasting about 60 sheets

of A4 paper. 4) Then I began testing the sheets. I am using Epson inks and Epson

"photo paper" (there doesn't seem to be a profile for this exact paper!) So I set the PS

print settings as follows: Document profile "same as source". In Print Setting I chose

"Glossy paper", Advanced settings "Superphoto 2880", deselect High Speed, and in

Colour Management I chose "Colour Sync". Many people recommend "no color

management" but I found that my prints had a gree cast which dissappears when I

choose Colour Sync. Anyway, try both. I also choose Paper Configuration "Colour

Density" at between -3 and -10 because it helps eliminate the "bronzing" effect that

the 2100 seems to love. I would very much appreciate your feedback on the above

technique, and also any links to the ICC profile for Photo Paper. Thanks, Brian

www.brianhallett.com

Thanks Peter, for your post. When you say convert the file for shadow details, are you

saying convert it as a darker image? and when you say combine the information in PS,

how is this done? Do you simply layer the images, or is there another function?

Thanks so much, Brian

Charles, can you post one of your "petrologic microscope to photograph rocks in thin

section" pictures here. That sounds very interesting, and I would love to see what my

S2 is capable of doing through a microscope. Thanks, Brian

AAAAHhhh, figured it out. I cleaned the electronic contacts on the lens and now its

firing again.

My RZ Pro II is acting up. When I try to fire, it beeps, but there is no red light. Every

once i a while it shoots once, and then stops. When it beeps there is no red light

indicator, and

I replaced the battery and the same thing happens. I cleaned the contacts and it still

happens. It fires fine on M with the back off and and the camera set on RBL so it

doesn?t seem to be a mechanical problem. According to the manual, the beeping

sound means that 1) the battery is low (when the red light glows) or, 2) it?s on AEF or

RBL (which it isn't). But beyond this, do I have some kind of an electrical problem, that

the battery charge is not reaching the camera? I would REALLY appreciate your

suggestions.

Correct me if I am wrong (and I know you will) but the RZ Pro II has half stop clicks on

the shutter speed, a fine focus dial, a much brighter viewing screen, is much lighter

weight, and has a vastly improved range of lenses. It will also continue to work in the

future as a digital camera with a 22,000 dollar back.

I just picked up a used 45 CT4, but I can't figure out which shoe and cable to use with

my Nikon f4, and also with my S2. Will this flash work in TTL with the S2? Can I use

the same shoe and cable for the S2 and the F4. I would REALLY appreciate your help

in this. Thanks, Brian

I have owned the 201 and the 503. The 201 can use the new lenses, which are faster.

However, there is one very clear difference. If you plan on using an auto winder the

winder with the 503 has a nice grip and has a trigger on the winder. The winder

which goes with the 201 is VERY uncomfortable. It is not made for the human hand.

So if you are planning on using this camera with the winder, the 503 is the one.

Thanks Brian. www.brianhallett.com

Basic concept...the harder and more direct the light, the harder the shadows. A direct

light, even a soft box, is a hard light. The closer the light to the subject, the harder

the shadows. The attached photo is shot with the following lighting setup...two large

white foamcore boards are placed one on top of the other to the right of camera. Two

lights (this will also work with one) are bounced into these two boards with the lights

set at about 1 foot away from each of the boards. Also, to the left of the model

another large white board is placed about 1.5 feet from the model's face to reflect

light to fill the other side. This light, to me at least, provides a nice soft feel without

harsh lights and darks. Another important point is that when you meter the light you

should meter directly towards the camera, and not meter towards the light. If you

meter towards the camera then you will get a more evenly balanced light. Thanks,

Brian www.brianhallett.com

I would choose a Mamiya RZ 67 Pro II over the Hasselblad any day. The Mamiya is a

more modern up to date camera, has easier focussing, 6X7 format, a fantastic array

of lenses, and is less expensive. I used to have a hasselblad and sold all of my Hassy

equipment to switch to Mamiya, and I am much happier.

Brian

www.brianhallett.com

Hi there. I've owned and operated all the cameras you are refering to. I would give the

following recommendation: get a Mamiya 6 used with an 80 mm lens. Rollies and

Hasselblads have sharp lenses, but without coupled metering systems are slow for

street photography. The Mamiya lenses seem comparable to Hasseblad's and the

Mamiya is lighter, easier to focus, faster to load, has a built in meter, and is more

compact. You will love shooting in the street with the Mamiya. (Avoid Bronica. They

were outdated a long time ago.) Hope that helps.

Brian

www.brianhallett.com

I've never owned an RB, but my RZ is great. I have a 65, a 110 and a 180. I

like a couple of the features that the RZ has over the RB. Brighter viewing, 1/2

stop f-stops, motor drive, metered prisms. These days you can pick up an RZ

with a lens and a back on Ebay for almost nothing. And when the price of

digital backs comes down to planet earth, you will be able to use one with

your RZ.

A couple of other things you might consider:

A backdrop system with roll paper or cloth,

A light meter,

A couple of stands with clamps to hold large pieces of white thermo core to

bounce lights off of (often direct light even with a softbox provides too harsh a

light...you will be very pleased with t he results if you experiment with

bouncing light as well),

a polaroid back if one is available for the camera,

rather than a soft focus filter, buy a couple of hairnets and use them over the

lens. It has a nice effect.

A music system to relax your clients,

An assistant.

Hope that helps

Brian

www.brianhallett.com

I haven't done aerial photography, but I can suggest two things. First of all, I

would suggest using transparency. It has a much higher dynamic range than

film, and is therefore capable of handling more highlights and shadows.

Secondly, you always get a much higher quality scan but scanning a

transparency (or a negative) than you do by scanning a print. If you want to

make enlargements, choose the best print, and then rescan the TP at an even

higher resolution (drum scan for example) and print from the file.

Hope this helps.

Brian

www.brianhallett.com

I would absolutely agree that a Nikon FM2 or a Nikon FE2 is a great deal. I

have had two and they are fantastic. You can get a host of manual lenses to

go with it on Ebay. If I were starting out, that is what I would get.

Brian

www.brianhallett.com

Prints in Cibachrome of Ilfachrome direct from the positive always seem more

contrasty to me. I would get them scanned (the ones you like) and then you

can adjust them the way you like in the computer and get prints made. There

are lots of scanning possibilities, but I usually do a less expensive option first,

and then get only the best ones drum scanned because it's usually much

more expensive.

Hi

I just sold a Mamiya MF 6 on Ebay. It was pretty worn on the outside but

functioned perfectly. However, there are two things I would look for. One,

check the wind lever to make sure that it functions well. I had to tighten my

down, and a few times it slipped and I had to take the whole thing apart,

tightten it down again. That seemed to do the trick, but made me pretty

nervous. Secondly, Make sure that the mechanism which folds the lenses into

the camera has been treated well. It should fold into the camera and lock with

a soft click, and do the same when pulled out. Sometimes this is abused and it

can result in problems. I also agree with the above about checking the

rangefinder. Take it outside, focus at infinity and look at something over 150

feet away. It should focus perfectly on that object. If not, you may have to have

the focussing realigned.

Otherwise, an amazing camera. Good luck. By the way, there are lots of these

in great condition available on Ebay. Maybe pay a little more and get one that

will hold its resale value better...

Brian

www.brianhallett.com

Question:

Can I use my S2 with a Metz CT-4 in TTL mode?

Thanks

Brian

Hi there

Just so you know, the MB-16 doesn't give you a vertical release. It's only for

batteries.

Thanks

Brian

Hi there,

First of all, I would humbly suggest that you are making a common mistake.

The most important question is what LENSES should you be buying. You are

concentrating on the body which is far less important than the lenses you are

going to buy. Therefore...

I would recommend none of the above. I would suggest you get a Nikon FE2

for the following reasons:

1. There are a slew of used amazing Nikon manual focus lenses available on

Ebay for a song. You can choose from an array of super wide angle to

telephoto and zoom lenses which have been used for years by pros and

photojournalists around the world. Most of these lenses go for between 80-

300 dollars each. Take your pick. And if you want to change lenses, their

resale value is the same. You can always resell it on Ebay and get a different

lens.

2. The FE2 is available with a motor winder on Ebay for around 200-300 with

a motor winder.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2989942794&

category=30035

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2989958794&

category=30035

This camera has the following features...extremely strong body design (not

plastic like the cameras you have listed). Automatic mode as well as

aperature prority . Fast flash sync (this may not seem important now but in the

long it will be a boon). Fast shutter speed. Works in mechanical mode if your

battery goes dead. Hot shoe for attaching external flash. Motor winder. and so

on.

3. The other BIG advantage of choosing Nikon is that if you ever decided to

buy a digital SLR, you can use any of the Nikon lenses you buy with your

digital camera. I have a Nikon F4 and I have many old Nikon lenses and I just

bought a Fuji S2 and am thrilled to be able to continue to use my lenses with

this new camera.

4. You will be so happy with way that a metal body Nikon feels in your hands.

You will WANT to take pictures!!!

The cameras which you have listed are all cameras which do all of the work

for you. If you want to begin photography I suggest that you consider a

camera which helps you to understand and think about photography. you will

be such a better photographer in the long run.

Hope this helps.

Brian

www.brianhallett.com