patrick_p

I'm looking to get a new polarizing filter. I'm a little confused with the Hoya product line. I see they have an EVO and I also see a Fusion Antistatic. These seem to be the same where the EVO is for US and Fusion Antistatic for Europe. Does anyone know if these are in fact the same? On Amazon the Fusion Antistatic is a lot less expensive which tells me they are not.

 

On a different note, I'm also considering the B+W XS-Pro HTC Kaesemann with Nano Coating. Seems this is on par with the Evo. Any thoughts?

<p>I recently changed my philosophy about lenses. When I started out years ago I had a Tamron 28-200 which I got for travel. I thought this lens was great, huge range and small. When I get a little more experience I realized all it's short comings and sold it in exchange for the Nikon 24-120 VR (the old one). I thought this lens was great until I realized all it's short comings. Looking at all my old slides I wish I had purchased something sharper with less range. I later switched to digital and got the 18-200, which I thought was great. I still think the 18-200 is great but the range comes at a cost. The one thing that made the 18-200 so good was it was sharp at most of it's focal range (not so much in the corners). I used it happily for years. Now I've opted for the smaller 16-85. I find it makes less compromises than the 18-200 and is a little sharper, especially in the corners. I really like that it is smaller and lighter. This is something I care about much more these days. With travel or as a street lens around town it is a perfect size and range. I have a number of primes I use when I require high quality. I also have a wide angle lens which I always take along on trips. </p>

<p>Thanks for your response. I guess I've just been rather lucky in the past. I've never had issues with my D80 or D90. I'm always very careful when I change lenses and I've always been able to use my rocket blower to remove dust. I'd taken those cameras all over the world with no major issues. This camera is only a few months old, only has 3k actuations and I haven't been using it in any extreme situations, so this is why I'm concerned. Again, maybe I've just been lucky.</p>

<p>It's there with all my lenses. The shot of the flower is at f/11. I tried my rocket blower and no luck. Think I'll just go ahead and buy a wet clean kit. I hope this doesn't keep happening.</p>

<p align="LEFT">My D7100 has multiple spots (oil maybe) on the sensor. I tried the sensor clean but no luck. I tried a rocket blower but no luck. It is visible in photos. It remains regardless of the lens I use. I only have 3k shutter actuations. I've never had this issue with my old D90 after years of use. Is there an issue with the shutter similar to the D600? Does Nikon clean the sensor as part of the warranty or should I just do it? I attached 2 images to show the problem.</p>

<p align="LEFT"> <img src="http://patrickperon.com/stuff/D71_3164a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="467" /></p>

<p align="LEFT"><img src="http://patrickperon.com/stuff/D71_2936a.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="467" /></p>

<p>Ok, so it is normal. Funny that I never had an issue with my old 18-200. Wonder if they changed something with VR II. Anyway, it is clear now that I will be turning off VR when on a tripod.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I just got the 16-85 and D7100 and was doing some night photography 10-20 second exposures tripod mounted. After about 10 shots I zoomed in on the camera display and noticed almost all the shots were blurry. At first I thought it was camera shake from wind or ground vibration but when I turned off the VR everything was very sharp. I've used the 18-200 with a D90 for years and never had this issue with VR on long exposures. I know the 16-85 has an updated version of VR so not sure if this is the cause.<br>

Is this normal or is something wrong with the lens or camera?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Patrick</p>

<p>I've decided to scan my film archive and dug out my IT8 targets to profile my scanner however I no longer have the software to create profiles. I looked around the web for free software but can't seem to find much anymore. I found IphotominusICC but no instructions on how to use it. I found littleCMS but only the developer files and no idea what to do with them. I could buy Vuescan or other software but would rather use a free utility. What are people using these days??? </p>

<p dir="ltr">Hello,</p>

<p dir="ltr">I'm looking to buy a coolscan 5000 and noticed some people advertise the serial number. Does anyone know what the difference is in serial numbers? It would be easy to assume that the higher the number the more recent the production. But are there known issues in some serial numbers? Is a scanner with 400,xxx really better than 200,xxx?</p>

<p dir="ltr">Thanks,<br>

Patrick</p>

<p>My wife is set on going to Fez and Marakesh. I'm thinking if I go north on my own it would only be for Chefchouen, becaues I'd see Fez and the area with them. If I go to Marakesh I could go into the desert then to Essouira before heading to Casa to meet them. This might be a better use of my time. Is it hard to organize a 2-3 day trip into the desert from Marakesh for one person?</p>

<p>Thanks for the advise. I prefer photographing people in traditional setting more than<br />wildlife.</p>

<p>Jeff, your advise is very useful. Were you about to find any smaller towns that made<br />a nice backdrop for photographing people? I know Chefchaouen is supposed to be<br />very nice for this but it is a little touristy now.</p>

<p>Also, travelling with a 2 year old, I'm worried about taking a taxi for extended journeys<br />because I'm guessing car seats is something they don't understand. Anyone have<br />and recommendations?<br>

<br /><br /></p>

 

<p>I'm going to be traveling in Morocco mid November for 7 days on my own then 8 days with my wife and 2 year old. On my own my mission is photography. With my family I'm after a more relaxing time. We are flying into Casablanca. Can anyone recommend itineraries for these 2 weeks?<br>

<br /><br /></p>

 

<p>I cleared the cache and that didn't help. I get the issue on jpegs alone as well as those with raw files. By default NX2 has more contrast despite having the exact same icc profile in the color settings. I have the latest verion of NX2 and the last version of NX1 that was released. I've been through all the setting (really not to many of them) and can't see anything that could cause or correct this. I'm really surprised no one else has this issue. I haven't done anything unusual to my PC in terms of settings.</p>

<p>Have a look at these 2 screenshots one from NX2 and the other from the original. It is obvious that NX2 is not scaling the image correctly. Additionally note the color difference, NX2 is a bit on the yellow side. For these reasons I continue to use NX1.</p>

<p>This seems like a critical flaw to me but seeing as Nikon has not fixed it and I've not read anything about it, I'm now thinking I might be the only having it.</p>

<p>If you have had similar issues please let me know and if you know a solution please share.<br />Thanks!</p>

<p>BTW - I'm running Windows 7 in 64 bit.<br /><img src="http://patrickperon.com/stuff/ViewNX2.jpg" alt="" width="541" height="400" /></p>

<p>I'm planning a trip to the Loire Valley towards the end of June with my wife and 17 month old daughter. We are thinking of renting a place near Tours for a week. I was hoping to sneak in some photography into the trip. Does anyone have advice or tips about where to shoot and when (better sunrise or sunset)? I will be sure to hit the top sites such as the Cathedral de Chartres and Chateau Chambord. Also some alternative things to do or see aside from Chateaus, as I'm guessing we might go into Chateau overload.<br />Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>You'll want your wide angle for Horsehoe Bend. I used 12-24mm.</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice. We are now looking to stay in Mousehole. It seems like a good location to seem most of the south and a quaint village. Google street view is awesome, along with satellite view you can do some good research into the best spots for photo taking.</p>

<p>

<p dir="ltr">Antelope Canyon - mid day when sun is high is best. Otherwise you won't get the dramatic light because the canyon is deep and narrow. I did both upper and lower canyon, both are great.</p>

<p dir="ltr">As with almost all photography sunrise and sunset best for the rest you mentioned.</p>

<p dir="ltr">Bryce Canyon - there are a number of lookout points. Have a drive around to see what you like best. Each view offers unique views all amazing. Sunset point is the most classic view and my favorite. I recommend doing as many walks are you can to get best photos.</p>

 

<p dir="ltr">Monument Valley - you are only allowed to drive around the designated path unless you have a guide or special permit. So just drive and pick your points for when the light is nice.</p>

</p>

<p dir="ltr">Zion Canyon - Lots of good walks. Narrows is most famous if you don't mind getting your feet wet, but obviously not for sunrise or sunset.<br>

 

<p>Bring a polarizing filter.</p>

<br>

Good luck,<br />Patrick <br /><a href="http://www.patrickperon.com/Galleries/USA-Southwest.asp">Photos from my Southwest trip</a></p>

<p dir="ltr">Hello,</p>

<p dir="ltr">I'm planning on going to Cornwall with my wife and baby. This will be our first time travelling with a baby (10 month old) so we don't want to move around much. We were thinking of renting a cottage somewhere in the south parts. Can anyone recommend a good area to stay that will serve as a base to do day trips from?<br>

I want to do as much photography as the wife will put up with. I was hoping to photograph some cliffs and St. Michael's Mound. If you have any must photograph spots please let me know.<br>

Thanks,<br />Patrick</p>

<p>Every season brings a different opportunity for photography. I went in September. Here are the photos from my trip.<br>

<a href="http://www.patrickperon.com/Galleries/USA-Southwest.asp">http://www.patrickperon.com/Galleries/USA-Southwest.asp</a></p>

<p>Thanks Dave. I noticed it also gives a nasty halo effect on some images. I will have to do some more experimenting with it.</p>

<p>

<p>When is active d lighting applied to the image? Is it at the sensor level at the time of shooting or post process like regular d-lighting? I ask because it seems to be in the RAW file, is this correct?</p>

</p>

<p>Check them on another computer before you do anything, it might be something to do with your laptop display calibration.</p>

<p>

<p dir="ltr">Hi,</p>

<p dir="ltr">Can someone please tell me how to open a nef file so that I can strip out the active d-lighting, change sharpening, contrast and saturation. I have the Nikon D90, and use PS2 and ViewNX. I want to avoid buying any new software.</p>

<p dir="ltr">I know I can do some of this with ViewNX but can't seem to remove the active-d-lighting. I want to do this because of the halos it created on night exposures.</p>

<p dir="ltr">Thanks,<br>

Patrick</p>

</p>

<p>For those who have been to Galapagos. <br />Which trip do you think is more interesting?<br>

<br />Trip A<br />Day 01: Baltra transfer to Santa Cruz/ Highlands<br />Day 02: Isabela: Pta Moreno / Elizabeth Bay<br />Day 03: Isabela: Urbina Bay / Fernandina: Punta Espinoza<br />Day 04: James: Puerto Egas and Bartolome<br />Day 05: Caleta Tortuga / Baltra</p>

<p>-or-</p>

<p>Trip B<br />Day 1: Baltra, Bachas<br />Day 2: South Plazas, Santa Fé<br />Day 3: Española<br />Day 4: Floreana<br />Day 5: Charles Darwin Centre, Baltra</p>