alex_j
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Posts posted by alex_j
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Depends what you are looking for. If you want medium format with equivalent angle of view to your 200mm on 35mm film, then you need about a 320mm in 645 format and 400mm in a 6x7 like the Mamiya RB67. However those lenses (if available) are going to be f/4 or more. Pentax do a 300mm f/4 for their 645.
<p>
If you simply wish to experiment with narrow dof and aren't too worried about angle of view, then you could consider a 645 with a 150mm f/2.8. e.g. Pentax 645 - 150mm f/2.8. But you are going to have to be about 1/2 the distance from your subject than with your 200mm on 35mm format.
<p>
Take a look at the dof calculator here:<br>
<a href="http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html">http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html</a>
<p>
Use the calculator with the following:<br>
35mm film, 200mm, f/2, 10 metres distance.<br>
6x4.5 film, 150mm, f/2.8, 5 metres distance.<br>
<p>
Quite similar results don't you think?<br>
Note however that the calculations are quite sensitive to distance.
<p>
You could purchase quite a decent medium format kit including fast 150mm (or similar) for the cost of one of those 200mm f/2 lenses.
<p>
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From the Tamron web site:<br>
<a href="http://tamron.com/bronica/etr_guide.asp">http://tamron.com/bronica/etr_guide.asp</a>
<p>
"INSERTS: All 120, 220 inserts can be installed in any E roll film back (note: never put 120 film on a 220 insert, and vice versa)."
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I've noticed on KEH.com there are backs listed as 120 BACK, 120 EI BACK and 120
LATE BACK. Now I'm aware that the early backs had a single release tab and the
later backs had two opposing tabs.
<p>
But what is the difference between the 120 EI BACK and 120 LATE back?<br>
These both appear to have to twin tab design.
<p>
Why would someone choose a 120 EI BACK over a 120 LATE back or vica verca?
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I have the same MH-18 charger for my D100 and it says AC 100-240 50-60Hz. The voltage will be o.k. anywhere in Europe, but you might need an adaptor for the physical plug connection. Since we don't know what country you are from it's difficult to know if you will need a different one.
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> You will need to use SB-800 in back compatible mode D-TTL with D100 camera
D-TTL mode should be the default with the D100 when you select TTL on the flash, so you shouldn't need to do anything do get D-TTL.
I also have the SB-800 and D100 combination. My only advice to you is to read the manual and practice. The first time I used the SB-800 and checked the first few shots on the LCD monitor, I felt the shots looked a little overexposed, so I dialled in more exposure compensation. When I got back home and loaded them to my pc the shots were too dark. Silly me for trusting the LCD monitor. None of those shots were important so a good learning experience. So practice on your friends, family, workplace and anything else that can simulate the event. Start off simple. P mode, 1/60, TTL and work from there.
Regarding problems with the pre flash mentioned by Joe. Isn't that more of an issue with i-TTL than D-TTL?
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Most sources suggest that all ETR/S/Si series lens can be used on all the bodies.
<p>
<a href="http://medfmt.8k.com/pw/bronica.html">http://medfmt.8k.com/pw/bronica.html</a><br>
<a href="http://www.tamron.com/bronica/etr_guide.asp">http://www.tamron.com/bronica/etr_guide.asp</a><br>
<a href="http://www.tamron.com/bronica/prod/etrsi.asp">http://www.tamron.com/bronica/prod/etrsi.asp</a><br>
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Pentax Spotmatic - 853 g<br>
<a href="http://lauro.fi/asahi.htm">http://lauro.fi/asahi.htm</a>
<p>
Nikon D200 - 830 g<br>
<a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond200/">http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond200/</a>
<p>
There are smaller, but if you loved the Spotmatic (first SLR I ever used), you'd probably love the degree of manual control the D200 allows too... and you shouldn't find it too heavy.
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Like Lester said... the Olympus OM mount has a similar film registration distance to the Nikon (46.00 vs 46.50), so the Olympus bayonet would have to fit inside the Nikon mount if you wanted infinity focus.
<p>
<a href="http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm">http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm</a>
<p>
This might be possible on the Canon EOS, because the EOS has a larger diameter mount. M42 is a smaller diameter mount than EOS or Nikon F, so it can fit inside several others (including EOS and Pentax's own K mount of course).
<p>
The DSLRs that offer the most lens mounting options would appear to be Canon EOS (due to large diameter mount) and Olympus 4/3 (short registration distance allows lens/adapter to mounted in front of the 4/3 mount).
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I've just purchased a Pentax 645... first medium format camera for me... with
75mm F2.8 and I'm looking for a site with a guide to Pentax 645 lenses.
Something similar to Bjørn Rørslett's Nikon lens pages or Bojidar Dimitrov's
Pentax K-Mount Page would be good.<br>
<a
href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html">http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html</a><br>
<a href="http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/">http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/</a><br>
<p>
Or don't these sort of pages exist for the Pentax 645?
<p>
I've done some searching and learnt a few basic things, like I believe I should
be able to use both the Pentax 645 MF lenses and the later AF lenses from the P
645N (in MF mode!) and there is also a Pentax 67 lens adapter, but some things
don't seem clear.
<p>
For example... this page.<br>
<a
<p>
The SMC Pentax-A* 645 300mm f/5.6 ED [iF] is listed as having an Angle of View
of 13.5, while the SMC Pentax-FA* 645 300mm f/4 ED [iF] AF is listed as having
an Angle of View of 6.6. That can't be right?
<p>
The second one doesn't look much like the Pentax 645 300mm f4 MF I've seen
offered for sale either... further adding to the confusion. I'm not looking to
get a long tele like the 300mm right now, but I'm hoping there might be a better
guide to the Pentax 645 lenses than this.
<p>
Thanks
<p>
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This thread would appear to be on a similar subject.<br>
<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00I78P&unified_p=1">Film/Digital Camera Sales 2006</a>
<p>
From this link quoted in the thread...<br>
<p>
"The film camera market continues to dry up significantly ahead of projections, meanwhile. CIPA had been projecting the total silver halide market to shrink by 38% this year, but in fact the first seven months of 2006 saw a 67.1% drop - leading to a projected fall of 62% by the end of the year".
<p>
Nothing specifically mentioning 120/220 film though.
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Frank,
<p>
I though it was redunant for me to mention on the Nikon forum, that the D70 also uses a CCD. The meaning of my last sentance should have been clear, but to memove any doubt I will reword it.
<p>
"...but the D80 CCD design most likely has other advantages over the one in the D70, which is also a CCD, but obviously not exactly the same CCD as the one in the D80".
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I don't think we can talk about the purely mechanical shutter itself being a "benefit". It is possible to have different types of CCD: Interline, Full frame, and Frame transfer CCDs. Here when we talk about Full Frame, we are talking about CCD architecture... nothing to do with size of 135 film.
<p>
Do a search on Interline, Full frame, and Frame transfer CCD for more info.<br>
e.g. <a href="http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,1697,1157575,00.asp">Anatomy of a Digital Camera: Image Sensors</a><br>
<a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/kodakdcs620x/">http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/kodakdcs620x/</a>
<p>
There are also different types of shutter possible for DSLR: Mechanical, Electronic and Hybrid.<br>
But not all shutter types are compatible with all CCD types.<br>
Some CCD types require pure mechanical shutter, others can use electronic or hybrid.
<p>
It's my understanding that the D70 used a Hybrid shutter (mech + electronic) which is how it achieved 1/500 sec flash sync. It seems that the D80 has gone to a purely mechanical shutter. My guess is that the CCD used in the D80 did not lend itself to use of a hybrid shutter, but the CCD design most likely has other advantages over the one in the D70.
<p>
More here...<br>
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I don't really know the OHNAR SLR Slide Copier, but if it is really a 2X zoom then surely you can adjust the *zoom* to get the correct size image?
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Which model was it? If you do a web search for 'Ohnar W-1337 Zoom Digital Slide Copier'... you should find it's designed for DSLRs.
<p>
I take it that the universal screw mount is an M42 mount? If you get an adaptor, I'm sure you will find other uses, or you can sell it again on eBay. If you can afford a DSLR then the cost of the adaptor is nothing. Or is the mount a T2 mount, as that's what a web search seems to come up with when I search for 'OHNAR SLR Slide Copier' on google.
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The focal length/cropping factor for the Sony sensors (including Minolta/Sony, Nikon and Pentax/Samsung cameras) is 1.5, so the *apparent* focal length becomes 112-450mm. The real focal length is of course unchanged at 75-300mm.
<p>
The 1.6 ratio sensor is used for most Canon DSLRs.
<p>
I'd do what David suggests - take it into a shop and try it out.
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Second correction... SB-50DX doesn't do automatic mode either.<br>
The <a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/NikonF5/Flash/SB30/index.htm">SB-30</a> and others do TTL and auto.<br>
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Correction to my last post... the SB-50DX is 235g.<br>
It is the SB-30 that is 92g.
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One thing to remember with the SB-600, is that it doesn't do Non TTL automatic mode. Just TTL and manual. But the Nikon FM doesn't do TTL. So you probably want a Nikon flash that does TTL (for the Coolpix) and Auto (for the FM) modes. That would include the SB-800 and older flashes like the SB-80DX, SB-50DX, SB-28/28DX etc.
<p>
Of course if you don't mind using Manual mode with the FM (no auto), then the SB-600 is an option.
<p>
Given you said, not too heavy, that probably rules out the SB-800, SB-80DX, SB-28/28DX and maybe the SB-600... these are all 300g+. The SB-50DX might be worth a look (92g). Thom Hogan has some Nikon flash stuff on his site:
<p>
<a href="http://www.bythom.com/coolflash.htm">Coolpix Flash Use</a><br>
<a href="http://www.bythom.com/flashqa.htm">Flash Q&A</a><br>
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<<That analogy fails because 3.5" floppy disks provided an increase in capacity whereas there is no capacity benefit to SD >>
<p>
But the original 3.5" floppies in the Mac had less capacity than 5.25" and the computer industry could have created a larger capacity 5.25" floppy if they wanted to. This would have been reasonably easy considering the much greater surface area of the 5.25" floppy disk.
<p>
But they didn't create a larger capacity 5.25" floppy... they went to the 3.5" standard and the 5.25" media became obsolete.
<p>
Here is the Panasonic SD Memory Card Roadmap.<br>
<p>
So when there are 8GB and 16GB SD cards (and maybe 32GB), will people still want CF because CF can potentially give 32GB or maybe 64GB?
<p>
If we look into our crystal ball for the next 18 months, I think we can see the following...
<p>
* Most Digicams use SD (already happened) so SD market reduced in size.<br>
* D70s discontinued, so only Pro Nikon DSLR (and semi-pro D200) use Compact Flash.<br>
* Canon 350D replacement uses SD... just like the Canon Digicams that the potential 350D buyers already own.<br>
* Canon continue to support both CF and CD in their D1 cameras.<br>
* Nikon do the same in the D3.<br>
* CF market is Pro DSLR only, plus extra cards for existing cameras, so costs of CF stay high, while SD continue to reduce in price.<br>
* Manufacturers begin to reduce investment in CF R&D, so while larger sizes of CF are technically possible, they might not be produced.<br>
* Nikon plan D200 replacement. The longer this takes to arrive, the more likely it is to use SD memory.
<p>
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Regarding the SD memory... when I first started using computers, the first one I saw that had floppy disks, was a CP/M machine with an 8 inch floppy disk drive. Later on, I started using a pc with 5 1/2 inch floppy disks and began to store data on them.
When I purchased my first pc, I had the option of 5 1/2 inch floppies or those new fangled 3 1/2-inch floppies... I took the 5 1/2 inch drive option to remain compatible with my existing media.
In hindsite, I should have gone for the 3 1/2-inch floppies... I soon needed to add a 3 1/2-inch drive to my pc and I really didn't have that much money invested in 5 1/2 inch floppies anyway.
My existing DSLR uses CF, but I suspect the people that get the D80 will look back and be glad they got a camera with SD memory.
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Thanks for that Bob.
<p>
Is it just me, or are others also having problems accessing nikonimaging.com?
<p>
What happened to the details on the Nikon Malaysia site?<br>
<p>
Given that it's the 9th August in Japan and most other parts of the world, late afternoon on the 9th here, I'm wondering where the official announcement and specifications are... or do we have to wait until the 10th?
<p>
On thing I was wondering about is the X-sync. The fact that it wasn't mentioned on the Malaysia site makes me wonder if they don't talk about it, because the X-sync speed is less than the 1/500 of the D70 and maybe less than the 1/250 of the D200 (Sony A-100 is 1/160). Interesting to see the FP High-Speed Sync mode... is this to compensate for a slow X-sync perhaps?
<p>
Otherwise, not too many surprises.
<p>
I'd prefer something that would meter with AIS lenses, but then I'd prefer Nikon to put all the D200 features in the D80 and sell it for the D50 price. :-)
<p>
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I asked this question before...
<p>
<a
<p>
and got similar answers... <p>
I ended up getting the Nikon 20mm F2.8
<p>
Did you check here?
<p>
<a
<p>
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I would keep the 20D - there are some things you can do better on digital.
For film, I just got myself a mint Nikon FM2n at a very reasonable price. Everything fully manual, so you have to think much more about your shots.
I've used a Pentax MX in the past... again, all manual.
Both the Nikon and Pentax K mount lenses can also be used in the 20D with an adaptor.
On the other hand if you want to develop your own film, I'd consider medium format. Plenty of choices at bargin prices these days... on the other hand if you are considering Leica, maybe bargin prices aren't a consideration?
Good luck...
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I've no idea how much of this is true or not, but for all those people who say "Too little too late", "10 MP is just not enough", "lets get rid of APS..." etc, I would have to ask..... if the 3DH really will have a 10 Frames/second mode, as suggested, then which 10 fps camera would you suggest they use instead?
Even if it was 10 Mp and only 8.5 fps, that would beat the EOS-1D Mark II N (8.2 Mp, 8.5 fps), or the DX2 (8 fps only in crop mode).
So for a sports photographer, who feels they need the speed, but doesn't need huge megapixel counts to impress forum posters, this could be a very good thing... as long as they make if soon enough and as long as it's not vapourware that is.
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Sounds a little too good to be true.... if we take the extreme viewpoint "The design life of the item isn't the issue. The law is the issue, and it says '5 years', and it does apply".... then people in the UK need never pay for car tyres again. :-)
Is a low end DSLR really expected to function for 5 years, if you take 2000+ shots per month? Thats 120,000 shots.
Or does this level of use indicate that the purchaser should have purchased a "pro" model?
I think the key wording is "inherent fault"... something the manufacturer should have recalled, but the law would appear to be give the same protection, even if no recall took place.
So if that 2000+ shots per month camera failed at 13 months, that's only 26000 shots - yes, that would appear to be an inherent fault.
Nikon FG Shutter Stuck/LED Doesn't show
in Nikon
Posted
Same on my FM2 and most Nikon manual SLR... you have to pull the film advance lever a little way - about 30 degree - to unlock the shutter and activate the meter. Then you should see the LED in viewfinder and be able to fire the shutter.
<p>
When the film advance lever is flush with the body you can't fire the shutter.
<p>
Link here is for Nikon FM2, but same principle applies:<br>
<a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2n/fm2manual/index2.htm">http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2n/fm2manual/index2.htm</a>
<p>