titrisol

<p>The vivitars are pretty good, specially the 70-200. Tamrons are also good<br>

I bought a Zenitar zoom in the 90s... stay away from those... mine fell apart after a few months.</p>

<p>My childhood was captured mostly with a Pentax Spotmatic my dad bought new in 1972 or 73<br />However my 1st pics were taken with his Zeiss Contessa<br>

I use the same camera until now; and captured the 1st pictures of each of my daughters with it.<br>

However, since I was in my early 20s I have used a Nikon N2000 as personal camera... and still do ;)</p>

<p>10.5 cm? that means this is a 6x9 camera<br>

It should use 120 film and gives you 8 exposures per roll.<br>

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/120_film</p>

<p>Any lens after the A-series (mid 80s) should be recognized by the camera<br>

Even the old M series work fine after you input the focal length</p>

<p>The SMCP FA 50 is brilliant, I got one attached to a P30t and I like it a lot!!<br>

If you get a 50/1.4 get at least a A or FA lens since those have the electronic contacts to communicate even with the new cameras</p>

<p>LX is the most advanced Pentax camera, built like a tank and full of good stuff</p>

<p>I never bit into the K1000, was too barebones to me... coming from the Spotmatic, the KX and the K2 seemed better<br>

the M-series was nice but the MESuper with its “buttons”to change speed never really attracted me….

<p >Fast forward to 2007, I got a free ME Super and after 10 minutes of fiddling I fell in love. Great viewfinder and great LED metering system, no complains from me. Plus the batteries are cheap, I buy 10 packs for 1,50 Euro. So having a spare in the case is never a big deal, plus if batteries run out there is always 100 and eye-meter ;)</p>

</p>

<p>Interesting beast!<br>

Have you tried attaching it to a bellows to be used in a SLR or a 6x6 camera?<br>

You can do that with gaffers tape and patience.</p>

<p>have you cheked in kyphoto site?<br>

lots of good information there, and also the yashicaguy websote has a complete strip down.<br>

seems to me like corrosion in a contact somewhere</p>

<p>have you tried puting the battery backwards?<br>

it seems to me the polairty is reversed</p>

<p>Jon Goodman's Instructions for the Canonets<br>

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/seal/Canon_CanonetGIII.pdf</p>

The value of such camera is to take great pictures

as per how much money you'll raise from selling one, well not much

Most Nikons or Canons will dor the Trick

I'm partial to nikons so a N80, N90, N100 or F4 F5 would do

Even if you never shoot them you may want to keep a few.

Check for the ones that look more appealing to your eye to use as decoration.

From that list there's a lot of good cameras, the Rolleis, Anscos and the golden ricoh may fetch good money. But then again they were your dad's so you may want to keep one or two to rememeber him.

Have you looked int o the KYphoto classic camera forum?

There is a wealth of information

I like them a lot! the soft look suits the pictures.

However it seems you exposed at 1/30 or 1/15 most of them

with such a fast film that seems to be an overkill unless it was quite dark and you were shooting at f/8 or so.

The images are not blurred, it is just her movement and seems your rangefinder is a tad out of whack. The wallpaper is sharp but your daugther's fce is out of focus in the first 4 or 5 pictures.

Though this one is great <img src="http://www.photo.net/photo/6654604"></img>

I think the camera is fine, gives a nice look and you should use it.

Get some TriX (expose as 400) and develop in Rodinal for a grainy look, with nice tonality and contrast

Efke/Adox 25 is too finicky

Also i had never seen so much grain in Fuji color film

Did you or the lab scan the pictures ?

That may also provide some info about the colors.

Awesome!

One piece of friendly advice, check the foam light seals in both cameras and the mirror bumper in the Minolta. Those are usually worn out by now.

You can replace them yourself and will save yopu a lot of headaches in the future.

Excellent!

Now if the metering is inconsistent +1 all you have to do is tell the camera you have film with ASA 1 stop faster/slower

Do you have another camera you can compare the meter to?

Even a digital can give you an indication if the meter of the vitessa is in the ball park.

If you are in the N hemisphere at full sunlight the meter has to be 125/11 in winter and 125/16 in summer for ASA100 film

I heard it was complicated, and I think there was a post about that a few months ago.

Run a google search on ti and you will find ;)

KY had it

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/vitessarf.html

It is not easy, but if you are brave enough

Those cameras are great, specially if it has the ULTRON lens in it.

butkus.org has a manual for the Vitessa, search for it.

I have the non-metered version with the Skopar and the results are outstanding.

The film counter, you have to reset by hand. You align the diamond in the rotating whell to the dot and then it starts counting.

The other letters and simbols are just indicatives

UPDATE: I also found the manual for it, I can scan it for you if interested

drop me an email.

The Contessamat is definitely worth keeping.

It was the first camera my dad allowed me to use, and I still have it.

The ColorPantar is an interesting lens these days, will give you very nice color casts but sharp and well defined pictures.

However, If you decide to part with it let me know.....

There are thousands of M42 lenses, made by many many makers/brands.

Any of the Takumars (SMC are the most modern, Super- follow) are excellent.

Also Tokinas and Tamrons are quite good, mamiya-sekor including Sears/Sekor are optically good, but the construction is not always the best.

Some Vivitar (series 1), sigmas and some other brands produce good results.

I would recommend the Takumar 28/2.8 for wide angle, but if you can get the 20mm even better

For long lens try finding either a Vivitar series 1 200 or a long takumar, see what you can afford. Check KEH for prices in some of them.

Read, make your homewrok before bidding ;)