daniel_nordling1

<p>Sounds like you have activated the mirror lockup feature in the custom function set, in this mode you have to press the shutter button twice to get a picture. Combined with self timer you will instead get a two second delay before the picture is taken.</p>

<p>Sounds like you have enabled the "Mirror lockup" feature, in this mode you are required to press twice on the shutter button to capture an image. The first press only lifts the mirror and the camera is waiting for your second press, in this state the camera is basically locked until you press the shutter button again. The mirror lockup is disabled with C.Fn 07.</p>

<p>>>Picture Styles have nothing to do with COLOR Temperature settings.<<<br>

<br /> Actually you are wrong. The Faitfull setting is optimised to give a colorimetric correct response if used at a color temperature of 5200 K (the light used must of course be 5200 K as well).<br>

Neutral on the other hand probably give natural colors at a wider varity of color temperatures. (Not exclusive for studion lightning.)</p>

Judging by the actuall size of the sRAW files, giving just a quarter of the pixels but still half the size of a full size RAW file, I would guess that the sRAW has full color pixels as opposed to the Bayer coded pixels of a full size RAW. This means that the color resolution is actually the same for sRAW and full size RAW, with the difference being the luminance (or black and white) resolution.

 

This would suggest that the sRAW:s would stand uppsizing better than the actuall pixelcount hints, that is we have better per pixel image quality in a sRAW. This is still a teoretical resoning, while the limited support for sRAW in raw-converters has stoped me from doing any real tests.

 

/Daniel

In some tests it have been suggested that the 40D:s ISO settings are more true to the standards than 20D/30D. It is often quoted that the 20D/30D ISO 100 is more like ISO 125 and so forth. I use to have -1/3 EV exposure compensation dialed in, but when testing the 40D i found this to give me underexposed shots. So part from the metering differens this might be the reason for the your experience.

 

/Daniel

Note that the Picture Style also affects the preview image embedded in the RAW-file. This preview image is used for in camera browsing and magnifying, it is also used by many image browser and sorting applications on your PC (i.e. Irfanview, Imatch etc.).

 

Therefore you might want to set a Picture Style that is close to the output you get from your favorite RAW converter software, usually lower contrast and medium to high sharpening. If sharpening is set to low it can be hard to judge image focus, contrary to when shooting in JPEG when low sharpening is recomended for post processing of images.

 

/Daniel

Wether or not it is a marketing ploy I can not tell, but according to the specifications Eclipse is pure metanol and Exlipse II is a mixture of metanol, etanol and propanol. If metanol where dangerous why include it in the new formula?

 

/Daniel

Have you tried to change the camera "Communication" setting to "PC connect" instead of "Print/PTP"?

 

/Daniel

I am the one that put the EF-S 10-22/3.5-4.5 on the 10D, I have a description on my webpage on how to do it: http://daniel.nordling.nu/foto/EF-S-10D/

 

I have also put the 10-22 on a full frame body, and it has full image coverage down to about 15 mm. The lens will clear the mirror on a full frame body from 12 mm and up. I have put som images comparing the 10-22 with the 17-40 at 17 mm on: http://www.fotosidan.se/forum/showthread.php?threadid=51749 (Sorry the text is in Swedish.)

 

On a 1.3x crop body a modified 10-22 will be usable as a 12-22 mm lens.

 

/Daniel

The white balance information is actually stored in the EXIF data in the image file, with the right EXIF tool you can extract this information and use it for seting the color temp manually.

I use a command line tool called ExifTool, that can be downloaded at http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/.

 

/Daniel

As the acceptance for noise is a very personal thing I can only speak for my self, but I recently uppgraded from 10D to 5D. My experience is that while I never used anything higher than ISO 800 on my 10D, and then only as a last resort in low light situations, I now use ISO 1600 without any restrictions. I feel that ISO 1600 on 5D is far better than ISO 800 on 10D used to be. For me even ISO 3200 on 5D is usable, with the same restrictions I used to have for ISO 800 on 10D.

 

I can not really say anything about the difference between 20D and 5D, as I have limited experience with the former. But I have the feeling that 5D is slightly better than 20D, but the difference is nowhere near the difference between 10D and either of 20D or 5D.

 

/Daniel

Why not buy a 10-22 for your 10D, it is quite easy to adapt and an excelent lens. See my webpage for more information: <a href="http://daniel.nordling.nu/foto/EF-S-10D/">Adapting the Canon EF-S 10-22/3.5-4.5 for use on a Canon EOS 10D</a>

From my brief experience of the 5D at a Canon demonstration in a local shop, i would say that the AF covers a noticeable smaller area on the 5D than on the 20D. That is the actual AF area is probably the same, but the relative size differs due to the difference in field of view crop. This is probably on of the few drawbacks you get with a full frame sensor, this might or might not be an issue for you.

 

/Daniel

You are of course right, the filter is adding quite a bit of the vingeting at these focal lenghts (as the lens is not constructed for full frame usage). Judging from the viewfinder you might be able to use one millimetre shorter focal lenghts without filter, sorry i did not think of this when I made my test shots.

 

/Daniel

Short answer, it differs from model of lens and focal lenght.<p>

 

Longer answer, (allthough i can not find my notes with the exact measurements) in my experience the 10-22 EF-S covers full frame down to about 15-16 mm and 1.3 crop to around 13-14 mm.<p>

 

<a href="http://daniel.nordling.nu/foto/EF-S-10D/EF-S-10-22-14mm-ff-xl.jpg"><img src="http://daniel.nordling.nu/foto/EF-S-10D/EF-S-10-22-14mm-ff.jpg"></a><br>

 

Full frame image from EF-S 10-22 at 14 mm, click on image for full size scan (almost 4 Mbyte). Markings represents 1.3 and 1.6 crop.<p>

 

<img src="http://daniel.nordling.nu/foto/EF-S-10D/EF-S-10-22-12mm-ff.jpg"><br>

 

Full frame image (EOS 30 slide) from EF-S 10-22 at 12 mm.

<p>

The full frame mirror of my old EOS 30 goes clear of the rear lens element down to about 12 mm, my guess from this is that the lens should be perfectly usable a 1.3 crop body down to the limits of image circle coverage. I should think that the mirror is less of a problem on the 17-85 EF-S (or the 18-55 EF-S for that matter), but i have no information on the image circle of those lenses. <p>

 

See also my description on <a href="http://daniel.nordling.nu/foto/EF-S-10D/">Adapting the Canon EF-S 10-22/3.5-4.5 for use on a Canon EOS 10D</a><p>

 

 

/Daniel<p>

 

Ps. I take no responsibillity for any possible damage caused by this information.<p>

Actually you <b>can</b> modify an EF 10-22 to fit 10D or D60, i have written a description on my <a href="http://daniel.nordling.nu/foto/EF-S-10D/">website</a> on how.

 

/Daniel